Crank Timing Gear - Anti-sieze?? - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 02:52 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Crank Timing Gear - Anti-sieze??

I've heard you're supposed to use a little anti-seize lube when installing the balancer on the crank, but does the same apply when pressing on the timing gear onto the crank?

Also, whats the recommendation out there? Heat it up super hot or use a tool to press it on?

Many thanks!

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 03:00 PM
curtis73's Avatar
Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
 
Last wiki edit: How to find cheap parts
Last journal entry: Found an LQ9 today
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
Age: 41
Posts: 5,226
Wiki Edits: 16

Thanks: 12
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Not sure what engine you're building, but the timing gear should just go on without much fuss.... but either way, you DON'T want anti-seize on it. The oil will wash it off during operation and then you are purposely introducing metal flakes and other odd chemicals into your engine.

I just tap it on with a socket and a rubber mallet. Its supposed to be a .001" press fit on most engines, which means you should be able to push it on with your fingers most of the way.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 03:02 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Really? Its a 350 SB. I had heck getting the old one off (used a puller). I've always seen guys heat it up almost red hot to get them on.

I put this one in the oven for 20 mins or so and got it pretty darn hot and still couldn't get it on.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 03:42 PM
techinspector1's Avatar
Senior Curmudgeon
 
Last wiki edit: DynoSim combinations Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Hemet, California, USA
Age: 72
Posts: 13,174
Wiki Edits: 326

Thanks: 795
Thanked 1,089 Times in 901 Posts
Same experience as Curtis73. A little motor oil on the snout and it should tap on.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 03:47 PM
curtis73's Avatar
Hates: Liver. Loves: Diesel
 
Last wiki edit: How to find cheap parts
Last journal entry: Found an LQ9 today
Last photo:
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Carlisle, PA
Age: 41
Posts: 5,226
Wiki Edits: 16

Thanks: 12
Thanked 10 Times in 7 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
Really? Its a 350 SB. I had heck getting the old one off (used a puller). I've always seen guys heat it up almost red hot to get them on.

I put this one in the oven for 20 mins or so and got it pretty darn hot and still couldn't get it on.

Yeah, they get stuck on and usually require a puller to get off, but then again you can't get a mallet in behind them to take them off either.

Have you checked the keyway for obstructions? Burrs on the key? If the key isn't seated in the keyway it will never go on.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 04:18 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
i checked it pretty good. its very snug. dont want to force or bang on it
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 04:19 PM
Member
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Alabama
Posts: 181
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
I'll bet you have an aftermarket gear, and if you do it will be made in China. None of the aftermarket products that are sold by the street rod vendors fit like the OEM parts. GM required the suppliers of assemble parts and that includes every part on a GM automobile to be within specs and if the part didn't fit, GM sent it back to the vendor. That doesn't happen to the Chinese parts because we are so happy to get something realitivy close, were happy.

Your gear should not need heating to slide on, it should go on with little effort. Like I said, if you got this gear from Summit, Jegs, Crane, Comp, etc. it will be made in China.

Sorry for the rant.............been blocking rear quarters on my '58 all day and nothing went right. I think I'll go have a beer.

Jim
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 04:30 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Dam that beer sounds good!!! It says its an "interference fit" crank sprocket and to use a tool in the instructions.

Guess I'll to rent one. it goes on easy until its about flush with the end of the crank, and no more.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 04:31 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 7,025
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 516 Times in 436 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
I've heard you're supposed to use a little anti-seize lube when installing the balancer on the crank, but does the same apply when pressing on the timing gear onto the crank?

Also, whats the recommendation out there? Heat it up super hot or use a tool to press it on?

Many thanks!
The way I set these up, is timing gear should lightly press on, it may take a driver made from a length of pipe which can then be lightly tapped upon with a hammer or screwed down with the damper retaining bolt. I put some engine oil on the inside of the gear and on the crank snout to ease assembly. If it goes much harder than hand pressure, disassemble and look for burrs or out of round places and dress these just enough to eliminate any physical interference.

For the damper, I assemble the timing cover loose so it can be adjusted by the crank seal centering on the damper hub, this usually means pulling the locating pins. The damper should fit snugly on the shaft. At the same time it should not have any burred surfaces that interfere with the crank, dress these as necessary. I like to use anti-seize on this assembly because the nature of the fit causes what's called fretting of the adjacent surfaces from the constant vibrations through this joint. Also, this joint is exposed to the weather, so water will penetrate and cause corrosion unless the surfaces are protected. don't worry about anti-seize getting into the engine, it's just aluminum powder dispersed in oil. The oil eventually works out leaving a mico layer of powdered aluminum in the jointed area. The damper is pulled on using the retention bolt or an installation tool. See at: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27100

It is not a good idea to heat either the crank gear or the damper. The gear is heat treated for a hard wearing surface, raising it's temperature can remove the metal's hardening treatment.

The damper is usually a 2 piece affair with an outer ring rubber bonded to an inner hub. It doesn't take much heating to destroy the rubber bond rendering the damper useless even if it doesn't fly apart. One piece competition rated dampers either have a viscus oil or a mechanism inside them, they are ruined by heating.

Bogie
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 07:30 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Uhoh.... i read this last one too late Bogie. I heated the crank gear on my stove top burner pretty good and got it to slide right on with some light taps. All is well there, long as i didnt get it too hot. It wasn't red hot or anyting, but it went on smoothly. I won't heat the balancer.

Surely I didn't get it too hot such that I hurt the gear?

Thanks for all the help fella's.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 07:32 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 7,025
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 516 Times in 436 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
Uhoh.... i read this last one too late Bogie. I heated the crank gear on my stove top burner pretty good and got it to slide right on with some light taps. All is well there, long as i didnt get it too hot. It wasn't red hot or anyting, but it went on smoothly. I won't heat the balancer.

Surely I didn't get it too hot such that I hurt the gear?

Thanks for all the help fella's.
If you avoided heating it into a color change zone, it's most likely OK.

Bogie
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2008, 07:51 PM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Arkansas
Posts: 82
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Im good then. You've been alot of help. Greatly appreciate it.

I ended up shimming the valve springs. I with with .09 on all except for the very front and rear exhaust valves. With them I went with .075. They we all deep and I'm pretty sure they won't walk..... those 4 outers didn't have as much ridget around them so I went a little less.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Need help with crank gear. chewyscool Engine 1 05-11-2008 02:33 PM
crank gear pi71 Engine 4 05-05-2007 10:05 PM
cam timing gear got into the block a little 74huggerorange Engine 1 06-30-2005 10:55 PM
Timing Chain & Gear MHenricks Engine 3 08-27-2002 10:39 AM
BBC Timing Top Rod Engine 0 06-09-2002 09:29 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.