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Old 05-24-2008, 04:31 PM
oldbogie oldbogie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dhunt00c
I've heard you're supposed to use a little anti-seize lube when installing the balancer on the crank, but does the same apply when pressing on the timing gear onto the crank?

Also, whats the recommendation out there? Heat it up super hot or use a tool to press it on?

Many thanks!
The way I set these up, is timing gear should lightly press on, it may take a driver made from a length of pipe which can then be lightly tapped upon with a hammer or screwed down with the damper retaining bolt. I put some engine oil on the inside of the gear and on the crank snout to ease assembly. If it goes much harder than hand pressure, disassemble and look for burrs or out of round places and dress these just enough to eliminate any physical interference.

For the damper, I assemble the timing cover loose so it can be adjusted by the crank seal centering on the damper hub, this usually means pulling the locating pins. The damper should fit snugly on the shaft. At the same time it should not have any burred surfaces that interfere with the crank, dress these as necessary. I like to use anti-seize on this assembly because the nature of the fit causes what's called fretting of the adjacent surfaces from the constant vibrations through this joint. Also, this joint is exposed to the weather, so water will penetrate and cause corrosion unless the surfaces are protected. don't worry about anti-seize getting into the engine, it's just aluminum powder dispersed in oil. The oil eventually works out leaving a mico layer of powdered aluminum in the jointed area. The damper is pulled on using the retention bolt or an installation tool. See at: http://www.moroso.com/catalog/catego...?catcode=27100

It is not a good idea to heat either the crank gear or the damper. The gear is heat treated for a hard wearing surface, raising it's temperature can remove the metal's hardening treatment.

The damper is usually a 2 piece affair with an outer ring rubber bonded to an inner hub. It doesn't take much heating to destroy the rubber bond rendering the damper useless even if it doesn't fly apart. One piece competition rated dampers either have a viscus oil or a mechanism inside them, they are ruined by heating.

Bogie
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