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Old 03-30-2007, 01:01 AM
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cranking an engine after 10 years?

1981 vw water cooled 1.7L w bosch cis injection and electronic ignition.

I am looking for advice on cranking it up and getting going again.What should I do first, and what will need attention after 10 years of neglect? I'll probably give it to someone in need of a car if i can get it running w/minimal cash.

I rebuilt @ 75% of the engine, and then parked it for way too long. recently I started to bring it back to life. It was in very good condition when I parked it in 1998; New tires, clutch, axles, head, rings, rod bearings, oil pump, etc. I neglected the mains, but they were OK-give or take.

I was going to have it towed away, but after looking at it I just couldn't. Its in great condition for sitting so long. my 80 rx7 wasn't so lucky-it was destroyed after 10 years.

I gave it a run down and here's what I found:

1 Pulled the valve cover: everything was super clean and rust free.
2 The engine case was still full of clean oil
3 All the electrics work- including its primitive oxy sensor and valve.
4 fuel intake plate moved w/ no resistance at all.....incredible!
5 all vacuum lines are connected and some how avoided dry wrot
6 I don't know what kind of paint they used, but it baked in the georgia sun for ten years w/no bath and no wax, and with a quick bath, it looked great???? American car companies should really look in to that!

Here is wear i'm at:

1 it was full of oil, but i pulled the valve cover and poured fresh oil all over the cam and lifters.
2 Pulled the plugs sprayed lubricant in the cylinders; I was afraid the engine was seized.
3 added fresh fuel
4 pulled the injectors to see if they still worked
5 put the key into the ignition and turned it over!

It was not seized!, but i had no fuel pressure

I traced it to the fuel pump. It gets power , but it does not turn. Did the old gas turn to glue and seize the pump?

Anyways, I'm going to get a new pump and see what happens. What should i do next if i get fuel pressure?

I'm a chevy guy! I currently own an 88 silverado w/ a 350, 99 s-10 w/ a 4.3L, and an 01 express w/ a 4.3L. but,...I had a vw rabbit when i was younger. The engineering of the drive line components is incredible. You cant kill these engines. But regardless, its an 81 1.7L rabbit POS. LOL

Yall always help me out here. Is it worth the time and effort? Or should I pour gas on it and light it on fire for kicks!?

Brian

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Old 03-30-2007, 02:10 AM
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Quote:
Yall always help me out here. Is it worth the time and effort? Or should I pour gas on it and light it on fire for kicks!?
No drain the tank of the shellac & put the fresh gas IN the tank & fire that mother up.

Sounds like you've cone just about everything else.

I'm sure there is someone out there that would be very desperate for a good running car.
Sheriffs youth camp - Womans shelters ...




R
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Old 03-30-2007, 02:35 AM
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kick ***! i take your advice to heart. and lord knows i will pass this car to someone who really needs it. and i know know enough to make it run good.
thanks
bri
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Old 03-30-2007, 06:19 AM
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I think that thing will fire right up with fresh gas and a fuel pump. Old VWs are hard to kill.
Let us know what happens.
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Old 03-30-2007, 06:31 AM
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I know when my Audi sat for a few years the fuel pump seized also. I installed a new pump, pulled the pre-feed line at the fuel distributor and used the pump to flush fresh fuel through the system.

Unfortunately the fuel distributor was gunked up with jelly and wouldn't let fuel out to the injectors.

Since the fuel distributor is a pricey piece of equipment, I ignored the warnings about servicing it and proceded to pull it apart, clean it and install new o-rings. Either they lie to sell you a new part or I just got lucky, but it worked.

Now, these Bosch systems hate to sit unused for extended periods of time, but if you take great care and painstakingly clean everything you may be ok.

I personally am still having trouble getting mine tuned, but its getting there. Nice systems but they do require a bit of a learning curve.
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:01 AM
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For cleaning out fuel related stuff I found a product called Pwr Tune Made by Quick silver {its a marine product } its about $8. a can .

I have used it for all kinds of gunked up carb's & stuff . . .

old lawn mowers {& new} that people neglect to stabilize the fuel for the winter .

I've had to scrap out the clog ,but this stuff takes all the varnish right off & carbon build up ... Badda Bing! eats that goo right up.

The thing is some times with this stuff you can NOT have to take everything apart.

its worth a try.



R
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
For cleaning out fuel related stuff I found a product called Pwr Tune Made by Quick silver {its a marine product } its about $8. a can .

I have used it for all kinds of gunked up carb's & stuff . . .

old lawn mowers {& new} that people neglect to stabilize the fuel for the winter .

I've had to scrap out the clog ,but this stuff takes all the varnish right off & carbon build up ... Badda Bing! eats that goo right up.

The thing is some times with this stuff you can NOT have to take everything apart.

its worth a try.



R
Oh, it's worth a try alright...and we don't even know if this will be an issue for him at this point anyways.

I just know from experience that the CIS (continuous injection system), although simplistic in design is fairly finicky.

Using the pump to flush out the tank and lines (be sure to put in a new fuel filter afterwords) is a no brainer, but the fuel distributor is designed with very small ports and a lot of seals. The fuel system cleaners didn't do a thing for mine, and it sat untouched maybe a year and a half at the most.

See these links:

http://www.cfmstudios.com/928fueldistributor/

http://www.vintagewatercooleds.com/t...MAF/cismaf.htm

Although these are not model specific, they are the same in design. Note the diaphragm sandwiched between the upper and lower halves...this serves to retain pressure on one side to ensure proper volume and flow to the injectors upon depressing the throttle...the slightest blockage can cause the engine to run very poorly or not run at all. Been there.

With this car that has been sitting for ten years, I would start by replacing the fuel pump, putting 5 gallons of fresh fuel in the tank, disconnecting the pre-feed line at the fuel distributor and pumping it all out. Then change the filter, put more fresh fuel in the tank with a little fuel system cleaner and see what happens. Hopefully you won't run into the problems that I did.
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Old 03-30-2007, 07:44 AM
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If I were you I would replace each and every rubber fuel line in that car.

I know some VW's with high pressure fuel injection setups are prone to blow out those old hoses. I don't know if that model has the hoses with the cloth covering, but some picky folks replace that type every 2 or 3 years because they deteriorate.

My mom had a 75 bug with the first year Bosch FI that caught fire 2 times in 2 years because of rotten hoses.

Later, mikey
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Old 03-30-2007, 08:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by powerrodsmike
If I were you I would replace each and every rubber fuel line in that car.

Later, mikey
True, look at all the lines very carefully. I assume that the fuel pump is under the car in front of the fuel tank just like mine, so be sure there is no fuel in the tank when you pull it. You really don't want to pinch the lines (due to Mikey's observation) and the tank will syphon dry on you. I made the mistake of changing the pump with a full tank of fuel once, of course the fuel splashed in my face, I couldn't see to stop it and had to run to flush out my eyes. When I got back every drop of fuel was out of that tank and running down the side of the street. Not a good thing...I could just see someone tossing a cig out a window or something. I let the garden hose run for quite some time that day.

Ate holes in my driveway too.
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Old 04-02-2007, 02:36 PM
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Have not had a chance yet to get a pump. I also always avoiding taking apart the fuel distributer due to Bosch's reccomendations. The fuel plate moves as easy as it did when it ran. I'm hoping thats a sign that the inside is not gunked up. I once got some worn and rusted injectors working just by letting feul through the high pressure system. It took a minute, but they did come back to life.

All the fuel lines are metal braided-i'm not to worried about them breaking. famous last words!

I'll probably get a pump after Easter.
Brian
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Old 04-02-2007, 06:13 PM
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i also recently fired up an old bug i replaced all the gas lines and put some new fuel in it (checked if it was unsiezed) arched the starter because all the wiring was chewed up from mice or squirrels im not sure but it sat for 8 years while i was growing up in long grass and the body turned to powder but the damn thing roled over 3 times and poof be gone i took the drivetrain out of it and made a dune buggy for my little brother hes having a riot..
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Old 04-02-2007, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by briansansone
Have not had a chance yet to get a pump. I also always avoiding taking apart the fuel distributer due to Bosch's reccomendations. The fuel plate moves as easy as it did when it ran. I'm hoping thats a sign that the inside is not gunked up. I once got some worn and rusted injectors working just by letting feul through the high pressure system. It took a minute, but they did come back to life.

All the fuel lines are metal braided-i'm not to worried about them breaking. famous last words!

I'll probably get a pump after Easter.
Brian
Check the lines under the car by the pump...I know mine are not braided there.

When you say "fuel plate" I assume you mean the airflow plate for the potentiometer. While it may move freely that is no indication as to whether the fuel distributor is gunked up.

Good luck.
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