[jumbo2]

Originally Posted by cobalt327

Any time, jumbo2. Keeping us posted is thanks enough.

the motor is back in , got everything done , oil and anti-freez and new plugs ect im half scared to start it lol maybe tomorrow

[jumbo2]

well I fired it up for the 20 min cam break in and went from 1800 - 2400 for 20min , temp got up to 230deg so perfect no leaks no oil no smoke no nothing , valves were almost bang on , but had to advance the dizzy to start it and retard the timing to get a good idle 850 rpm , seems like the hyfire v1 box is blaying tricks on me ? its like I need start advance not retard unless im confused? I have to turn it clockwise about an inch to start or starter wont crank ? Its a powermaster mini but has been 100% up untill now

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by jumbo2

well I fired it up for the 20 min cam break in and went from 1800 - 2400 for 20min , temp got up to 230deg so perfect no leaks no oil no smoke no nothing , valves were almost bang on , but had to advance the dizzy to start it and retard the timing to get a good idle 850 rpm , seems like the hyfire v1 box is blaying tricks on me ? its like I need start advance not retard unless im confused? I have to turn it clockwise about an inch to start or starter wont crank ? Its a powermaster mini but has been 100% up untill now

Turning the distributor CW retards a SBC, so that seems normal if you were using a healthy amount of initial timing.

All in all, good job.

[jumbo2]

Set my hyfire 6 with 10 deg start retard and bang it lights right up instantly , will try to post video

IMO get new bearings. its crazy to reuse them. some people might say go ahead but they aint got any ties to the damage that can and might occur.

first of all bearings are crush type and if you reuse them you can wind up with oil pressure issues and a spun bearing wrecks havoc on rods/crankshafts.
they are super cheap so get new ones.
if you cant catch your finger nail on the old bearings your rods should be fine and reuseable as is.
when i built my first SBC stroker in the 80s i made the mistake of assembling the engine and taking it apart a few times and not thinking of the crush on the bearings and it ended up with low oil pressure and eventually wound up spinning a bearing my machinist warned be about this but i thought they looked good and reused them. so please take it from me and get new bearings they are super cheap and great insurance as far as mains make sure they are the right ones as the discoloration you described may be due to undercut main journals.

[jumbo2]

The bearings were not ran , they spun a rod and had it fixed then I bought it and tore it down to inspect , the crank was colored so I pulled the rod cap to confirm it was fixed , it was all good so I re torqued them , changed the pan and oil pump because some one messed with it and welded the pickup wrong so it was touching the pan . I installed a new pump with pickup HD moroso setup with 8 1/4 inch deep pan and new cam/lifters/gear drive and new gaskets and accessories . Oil pressure is 70 psi cold 25 psi at hot 220 deg idle running 10/30 oil with break in additive . The motor was basically free and replaced a tired 350 so we will see

[cobalt327]

Originally Posted by BigChevyFTW

IMO get new bearings. its crazy to reuse them. some people might say go ahead but they aint got any ties to the damage that can and might occur.

first of all bearings are crush type and if you reuse them you can wind up with oil pressure issues and a spun bearing wrecks havoc on rods/crankshafts.
they are super cheap so get new ones.
if you cant catch your finger nail on the old bearings your rods should be fine and reuseable as is.
when i built my first SBC stroker in the 80s i made the mistake of assembling the engine and taking it apart a few times and not thinking of the crush on the bearings and it ended up with low oil pressure and eventually wound up spinning a bearing my machinist warned be about this but i thought they looked good and reused them. so please take it from me and get new bearings they are super cheap and great insurance as far as mains make sure they are the right ones as the discoloration you described may be due to undercut main journals.

The bearing crush is set by the main saddle ID and the bearing OD. As long as the main saddles and caps are in spec for the bearings being used, the bearings/caps can be torqued and removed any number of times w/o issue.