Crap the body shop mis alinged my front frame crash support - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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Old 07-27-2006, 09:32 PM
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Crap the body shop mis alinged my front frame crash support

Ok, It started with the radiator core support being off on the driver side, I reported earlier that I thought it was because I bought an an aftermarket part. Well as I started putting the bumper back on and measuring the gap between the bumper and the fender on the driver side there was non. So left it like that and looked and looked and CRAP. The body shop that straightened my frame mis aligned it. Heres what it original was:


tho this:
. The problem is the driver side is front frame impact support is up higher and to the right. I know you say take it back but screw it, I want it done right, I'll just chalk this up to a 450 dollar lesson. I want to do it myself. Has anyone ever just hooked up a come along and pulled something back to spec?
I have the specs for it?


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Old 07-28-2006, 12:34 AM
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Misaligned frame horns and a CAPA core support?

The frame horns are going to have to be straight before anything on the truck aligns. Sorry workmanship. $450.00 for a pull?
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Old 07-28-2006, 06:43 AM
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Did a shop do that or did you try to pull it yourself? The reason I ask is that in the first pic I see the come-along hooked up to the saddle horn.
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Old 07-28-2006, 06:58 AM
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Good eyes and Yup 450

Good eyes dually, no that picture was right before I took it to the frame shop .

Klutz Yeah the 450 was not only for the pull but also for a full inspection and re-alignment on the frame if needed. But makes me wonder what was really done, think I got screwed on this one. Hate to say it but here in SA TX I seem to be having trouble getting quality work done. On the Core support I went to the worst place possible for the part.
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:09 AM
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crossmeasure the frame and verify if the sway is still there, also look at your cab mounts to see if the cab has slid and compounding the problems. Take it back and have them pull it more. I've seen frames move back some after a pull if the tech didn't put a good set into the metal while tension was on. Bob
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Old 07-28-2006, 07:50 AM
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Actually, if it is a first class shop, they will have a measuring system to use in conjunction with the frame machine, either sound or infrared. You cannot tram today's cars like you used to (it just takes too much time and is not exact enough). They should have been able to give you a printout of before and after similiar to a front end shop.

It took the hit on the left rail and the frame may be diamoned. Also be aware that FORD makes those frame horn repair kits (I believe the basic PN was 5B115) if the horn and face bar mounting pad were too badly damaged.

No way you are going to align any metal with that frame sitting like that.

Sorry...

I forgot. Where you have that come along hooked is the tow strap. Don't pull on that as it will rip it out of the rail...

Last edited by KULTULZ; 07-28-2006 at 07:53 AM. Reason: ..grr...
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Old 08-17-2006, 09:30 PM
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Body shop crap

Next time, bring the shop a few parts to hang to check alignment. There is an old saying that goes, "if it measures right and looks wrong, it's wrong". Pamela Anderson, I think. Even with lazer frame systems, there simply aren't enough points to ensure perfect fit of every part. Major points may be OK, while the end of the horn may be twisted, or the core support mount a little off. I rarely do a job without the customer bringing in the sheetmetal. Of course, the frame guy may not be worth a crap, either.
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Old 08-18-2006, 05:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satexasf150
Hate to say it but here in SA TX I seem to be having trouble getting quality work done. On the Core support I went to the worst place possible for the part.

You are not alone here!! I have had my exhaust done 3x in the 59.
Currently have a lawsuit pending with the first bodyshop that worked on my car. There are more issues with the quality of service I have recieved here since I arrived in 2001. But wont go into detail. Just have no idea where "Customer First" attitude has gone.

If you pm me I can give you a name of a couple of fellas that pull em the old fasioned way--Eyeballs and a tape measure.

Bryan
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:20 AM
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Wow this thing is really off.

I was over at one of the salvage yards looking for a left window part and came across another f-150 01 crew that had caught fire but had the front frame rails exposed. So I was checking them out.Holly crap after looking at those front frame rails at the salvage yard and comparing them to mine. I realized I got the old sausage from the time I picked up the vehicle from the body shop. I mean those front frame rails at the salvage yard were perfectly aligned and straight. Mine look like my kids tried to straighten them out. Whats sad is all the advice about what to look for in a quality shop and things I should have received from the body shop I've gotten off this site never happen. Thus I got the old boink. . Well lesson learned.

One Pissed Vato.

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Old 08-18-2006, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KULTULZ
Actually, if it is a first class shop, they will have a measuring system to use in conjunction with the frame machine, either sound or infrared. You cannot tram today's cars like you used to (it just takes too much time and is not exact enough). They should have been able to give you a printout of before and after similiar to a front end shop.
I agree to a point, but I have to say, a "First class shop" is all about the PEOPLE being "First class" not the equipment. I use a computer/robotic measuring system at work. I can if I want hand a customer a "printout" of their finished repair that means NOTHING. I can fake it just as easy as telling him the measuring tape was right on. And the old centering guages and measuring tape will repair that full frame truck just as good as that "fancy mocheeene" IF you know how to use them.

We have a guy at work (gray haired old timer like me) who uses HIS "centering guages" and will blow away what I can do (admittedly I am far from a full frame expert) with my Car-O-Tronic measuring system.

The first truck he ever did was an S-10 with an accordianed rear frame horn and buckled rail. I had never seen a guy fix a bent up rail like that before in my life. This thing was PERFECT, like no one had touched it. It didn't have "teeth" marks from clamps, it didn't have hammer marks, it didn't have grinder marks, it was just perfect! Blew my mind, it looked like he did it with friggin magic.

Good equipment is a good "sign" I agree, but no guarantee.

Brian
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Old 08-18-2006, 08:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satexasf150
Whats sad is all the advice about what to look for in a quality shop and things I should have received from the body shop I've gotten off this site never happen. Thus I got the old boink. . Well lesson learned.

One Pissed Vato.

You can't beat yourself up, "stuff happens". Is this a big shop where the office is "insulated" from the shop? Maybe you could go back and talk to the guys in the office and get something done. Maybe the guy who did the work is now known for not being able to do such work and they understand your problem and take care of it.

Brian
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Old 08-20-2006, 06:26 AM
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All too often I hear people wanting to blame the replacement parts for the poor alignment on collision repairs. In actuality, in most collisions now days, with the newer vehicles, there is some structural damage, either actual frames on full frame vehicles, or unibody damage on the others. If the structural damage is repaired properly, most replacement parts will fit. Of course, there are some replacement parts that won't fit no matter what you do.

I knew a body shop manager that required a print out on every car that went on their frame machine. The techs were told that the vehicle had to be pulled to exact specs on every job. They were told to ignore the tollerances, it had to be exact! That shop used a high percentage of aftermarket parts and had little problems with fit. Other shops that I dealt with then( I was an insurance adjuster) had problems with everything I gave them calling for aftermarket parts. I was in one shop one day and found out why. That shop had put on an aftermarket hood, and the fit was terrible. They convinced the insurance company to pay for an OEM hood. They got the new hood and tried to install it. That OEM hood fot as poorly as the aftermarket one. The car had to be put on the frame machine and was found to be way out of alignment.

Now, I am not endorsing the use of aftermarket parts. I like to use OEM when ever I can, more because of the shape and quality, than for the gap fit. I am just saying that when there is a fit problem, I always check everything else first, before blaming the replacement part. In a case like this one, I would have the frame pulled to factory specs, and have them verified, before letting them see the sheetmetal. A good technician, using a quality system, can measure those parts from every direction, and put it where it is supposed to be, as far as height, length, and width. I have seen people try pulling the structure just to where the stuff looks right, ignoring where it is supposed to be. Since that one is obviously off from where it is suposed to be, I would require a print out of before and after. I would also require them to let me see it measured before it is taken off the machine. The clamps for pulling it should be off the vehicle, and any hold down clamps loosened. Some guys will actually print out a sheet with the machine still pulling, so it looks like it is where it is supposed to be. Of course when the pressure is removed, the frame goes back to where it wants to be.

Keep in mind that the frame is not just there for the body to roll around on. It is your first line of defense in a collision. If the thing is not repaired properly, it will not perform the way it was designed to in a collision.

Aaron
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