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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 11:22 AM
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If the engine is hitting 200 degrees+ and still going up after 2 minutes, something is plugged. Where are you taking your water temp from? I find it hard to believe that timing @ idle would overcome the cooling system that quickly. I had a situation having the wrong damper installed my timing was about 25 degrees BTDC and I never had a cooling problem at idle. Just pinging up in the RPM's. I agree the idle situation sounds like a vacuum leak, or timing. They both have similar symptoms. As far as the overheating I would definately look for restrictions. No one mentioned the thermostat, have you taken that out and tried to pass the 2 minute mark? Usually things like this are simple, but leave you scratching you head for a while. Enjoy the ride you'll ultimately learn something new!

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Old 10-10-2006, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by 70bird
My experience with heating up very quickly was timing was way too advanced.

You said the wires are in the correct spots, but do you know the distributor was stabbed correctly?

I have seen distributors stabbed at different angles. When this is done, the wires are not plugged into the factory positions (though the rotation stays the same, of course).

At TDC rotor should be pointing toward cylinder 1 and/or at the contact point for the #1 wire on the cap.

My $.02.
Take t-stat housing off and remove t-stat, fill it to top and then replace housing, this should get the air out.
Also you state zero lash and then 1/4 turn, If you have never adjusted vaves much , you might just have them too tight, if you adjusted them before firing the engine, zero lash means no slack,but it don't mean taking them down too tight to begin with, lightly no slack, then its usually 3/4-1 turn.
I adjust my motors as I assemble them and with intake still off, lifter on the heel of lobe,I start to take slack out while rotating pushrod,and also keep watching plunger in lifter, the instant the plunger starts to move thats zero lash. Then put 3/4 - 1 turn on it.
This is just a thought
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 12:42 PM
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What year is the water pump for, could it be a reverse rotation pump or vise-versa needs a reverse rotation?
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Old 10-10-2006, 10:00 PM
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Good suggestions from everyone.

The intake manifold is part 27014 is brand new, is a square bore, and looks almost identical to the old unit. The carb is brand new part 4777C model 4150 , 650 cfm and is identical to the old carb.

I got a spray bottle that you could adjust to a stream instead of a spray so I could spray in tight places and get up under the carb. I sprayed water all over the carb, manifold, gaskets everything, and had no indication of a vacuum leak anywhere.

That air pocket in the engine idea interests me a lot. I had not thought of that. This may be a real possibility since the engine and the radiator and all related parts were complete dry to start with. You say it took you a whole day to get the air out - How Did You Do It?

I do have my old carb so I can put that back on there and try it as it was working fine before. Good idea.

I used water and liquid wrench before, but I will try the starting fluid next to see if that reveals anything new. Another good idea.

The way I stabbed the distributor was this.

1. Put finger over #1 spark plug hole.
2. Rotated engine until I felt compression.
3. Continued to rotate engine until TDC mark lined up with pointer.
4. Installed distributor so that the rotor button lined up with #1 terminal on distributor.

It still bothers me that the water level has not dropped. Im thinking if I disconnect the top radiator hose at the radiator, run the engine, when it gets to 180 degrees, the thermostat should open and I should get water flowing out that hose if the cooling system is working correctly.

Guys, it has really been a comfort to get the ideas that you are offering. I will try every one of them. I have rebuilt 10 engines before this and never had this kind of trouble with any of them. I really appreciate the help.
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2006, 10:23 PM
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The water temp is being taken from the front of the intake manifold, with a bulb that fits down into the manifold, just like my old engine.

I am sure the timing is not just right, but it is hard to adjust the timing with the engine running at 1200 to 1500 rpm. Anyone have an idea for that?

I tested the new thermostat right before I put it in and it opens right away when the water gets hot. Had my old one right next to it and both opened at the same time.

I thought about restrictions internally before and believed the only thing it could be was a head gasket issue. The heads were already installed on the crate motor when I got it. Any ideas on that?

Water Pump - I had bought a new short style water pump for it but when I started to install the engine I noticed I did not have the clearance I had before between the radiator and the end of the pump. When I put the tape measure on it, it was a full 1 inch longer than my old pump, so I took that off cleaned up my old water pump and put that on there. It was still working OK on the other engine. Not sure if I can get my money back on that, but it seams the wrong pump may have been packaged in the box, because the box was marked short style pump.
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-12-2006, 10:06 PM
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Found The Problem

I just wanted to let everyone know I got the engine running properly today. I had a gut feeling the engine was not running on all cylinders. After testing everything else, I did a compression test and found the engine had "O" compression in 5 out of the 8 cylinders. I re-checked my valve adjustment and found it was still at 1/4 turn past "O" lash with the valve closed, which is what the speck book called for. Some sheets called for 1/2 or full turn past "O" lash. I re-adjusted the valves on each cylinder for maximum compression instead of some pre-determined specification and found I got the best compression with the valves adjusted to "O" lash. I went back to my old 327 engine and found the valves were adjusted to that same "O" lash. The 1/4 turn past that point was too tight and resulted in reduced or zero compression. The car runs like a champ now, and I want to thank everyone who gave me ideas and suggestions which inspired me to keep working on the engine until I found the problem. I was burning the midnight oil on this one.
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