Creating NEW t-bucket frame plans - Need TONS of info, plans & measurements - HELP! - Page 4 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2006, 02:40 AM
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bump, just cause veryones replies keep me working toward the goal

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 01-30-2006, 06:18 AM
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T bucket plans

There are a number of plan sets around, as you say, LoRollerChevy. CCR's sets have been around a long time, and for about $25, you can buy them. They have some oddball characteristics, among them the front spring mount, which many think is "upside down."

Car Craft may have been the magazine somebody mentioned earlier, back in the '70's. Lots of T's were built with those plans. The one characteristic that sticks out about that set is the two large coil springs for the front spring. Any car with that was probably built in that era, from those plans. I have a copy of those plans, myself.

Chester G's plan book comes up regularly on e-bay, but since it's been out of print for a long time, it usually bids up well over $100. And, again, it has some oddball ideas that probably were great at the time.

I'm the VP of the National T Bucket Alliance (www.nationaltbucketalliance.com), and I'm all for spreading the knowledge of these little cars that are about as much fun as you can have with all your clothes on. They're simple. Heck, the previous VP built his car at 15, with a frame constructed from the steel from a John Deere tractor's roll bar, the steering gear from one of the ranch's combines, and an engine, transmission, and rear end from a dirt-cheap '64 Bel-Aire. He's still driving the car, has almost 300,000 miles on it.

We have at least one member who builds frames and sells them pretty reasonably. But anyone with a decent welder and a modicum of skill can build a T from scratch, by eye. They're not complicated. In fact, they're about as basic as you can get; a frame, engine, transmission, rear end, steering system, cooling system, brake system, and somewhere to sit, and you're there.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 01-31-2006, 08:10 PM
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frame plans for sparky, still have a load to do before they realy get any text ...
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Old 02-10-2006, 03:07 PM
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bump cause i just realized that Jon put this thread on the forum front page
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Old 02-10-2006, 09:47 PM
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This may be some help, "HOW TO BUILD A HOT ROD SERIES"," CAR CRAFT" T BUCKET. Complete 9 Part Series CAR CRAFT Nov 64 thru July 65. This would be considered public domain and has plans for all the pieces and assembly tips. It used Corvair springs for suspension and if I remember right it even had plans for the dropped axle,tie rods and radius rods.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2006, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jalopy45
This may be some help, "HOW TO BUILD A HOT ROD SERIES"," CAR CRAFT" T BUCKET. Complete 9 Part Series CAR CRAFT Nov 64 thru July 65. This would be considered public domain and has plans for all the pieces and assembly tips. It used Corvair springs for suspension and if I remember right it even had plans for the dropped axle,tie rods and radius rods.
today a package arrived, from JD in kansas city ...

30 some odd pages of car craft magazine from the summer of 67 ... "street roadster in kit form"

one cool thing i noticed while glancing thru is they used corvair coil springs for thje rear suspension, and fabricated top and bottom buckets for them

one of the pages even has all the dimensions needed to built a motor mount plate for the FRONT of the block designed so that it dips under the crank and allows you to do any engine servive you need and not get in the way
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Old 02-11-2006, 07:14 PM
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engine plate
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Old 02-12-2006, 12:53 AM
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engine plate continued
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Old 02-12-2006, 09:15 AM
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I used plans from one of those magazines to build my first T bucket frame in the early 70's. It used the Corvair front springs for rear springs An easy to do setup. The springs were pretty inexpensive new at the auto parts store at that time. I made a track bar setup that worked but left a bit to be desired.

One thing to remember when building a T frame from rectangular tubing. Make sure that you put the weld seams on the tubing to the inside as that seam always wants to through your paint on the frame.

I think I used 60 degrees as the angles on the kick up (that was 33 years ago and I may be wrong) and by a bit of dilligent planning and measuring I was able to get most of the frame out of one stick of tubing. If you have to "cut to haul" Know your needed measurements so you can have the steel yard make the cut where it will give you the least waste.
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 02-12-2006, 09:18 AM
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OOps I hit quote instead of edit
The great thing about T bucket frames is that there is no absolute It has to be exactly this way criteria. wheel bases are adjustable to suit the individual and dimensions can vary to fit different parts combos.
I had a 108 inch wheel base on mine but most of the t's at the time were on 98 inch wheel bases.

Last edited by Chopt 48; 02-12-2006 at 09:23 AM. Reason: Error in posting
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 02-16-2006, 09:57 PM
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some hairpin brackets ...
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2006, 05:08 PM
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I'm not positive but I Think someone with an engineering background would tell you that the sharp corners in the windows in the brackets could be a possible spot for a stress crack to start. It sure looks nice but will it hold up to the rigors of running down the road.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 02-18-2006, 05:29 PM
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yea, they would be, ive already redrawn it so they are all rounded corners
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Old 02-18-2006, 10:06 PM
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heres the updated bracket, with 1" radius's around the back, forget what the radius is on the cut outs tho ...
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Old 02-18-2006, 10:53 PM
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That even has a smoother look to it. Very Clean.
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