Creating NEW t-bucket frame plans - Need TONS of info, plans & measurements - HELP! - Page 5 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #61 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2006, 12:45 PM
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I find this thread very interesting as I am planning to start building a t bucket style rod this spring.
I am considering using a ford pickup twin I beam front suspension,with air bags instead of the coils,has this been suggested or used by anyone here before?
They're cheap and plentiful,would look good chromed or powder coated,and extremely simple and strong.
Maybe a little heavy.
Just an idea.

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  #62 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2006, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jim..
I find this thread very interesting as I am planning to start building a t bucket style rod this spring.
I am considering using a ford pickup twin I beam front suspension,with air bags instead of the coils,has this been suggested or used by anyone here before?
check cboys jounal, he did it
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  #63 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2006, 01:14 PM
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I checked it out,looks real good!
I never saw one used on a rod before,but always new it would look good.
Definitely the way I will be going with mine.
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  #64 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2006, 10:56 PM
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I'm going have to go crawl under the front of one of those and take a look because from what I remember from working on them they would be way too bulky to be attractive or easy to clean up into somthing that would look good.
I'm not saying that they wouldn't drive good but I am very traditional when it comes to the appearance of the front end of a street rod.
here is a photo of a little T that showed up at the Run to Roslyn in Roslyn, wa last Aug. It has quarter eliptic leaves with an axle that had it's start with standard semi eliptic leaves. It is a clean installation with no extra stuff hanging off of it. I don't know who own's or built the car but it is full of tricks.





http://photobucket.com/albums/v443/R...YN05RUN060.jpg

This link will get you to more photos of the T and the rest of the photos on the 05 Run To Roslyn.

Last edited by Chopt 48; 02-20-2006 at 02:51 PM.
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Old 02-22-2006, 07:54 AM
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Take a look at Cboy's project journal Chopt. I thought it would be bulky too, but Cboy did a great job of hiding the suspension framing behind the radiator shell. He put his radiator under the rear deck, but no reason it can't be in front of the suspensions in the shell. Might add a couple inches to length up there is all, and would require an electric fan due to the framework between the engine and radiator. Looks like a wide traditional axle from the front, and can't see the framework for the wheels from the side until you get up close. Even then it's not bad.
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  #66 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2006, 09:34 AM
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I took a look at Cboy's Journal. I am going to have to go back when I have time and study it in detail.

This journal should be required reading for anyone who wants to start out on their first build and those of us who have put several cars together can learn a lesson or two also.

Also the car is far above what I view as a "rat rod". It is a well built, safe car that a guy could jump in and head across country without fear of breakdown or major problems. And all major mechanical and electrical parts are easy to find anywhere.
The only problem area I see on the car is the copper water pipe. Copper is known for not liking vibration and may crack after a while.

Ok I do see what you mean by being able to clean up the twin I-beams. They can be cleaned up and look quite presentable.

One thing to point out, both of his cars are hand built cars that are built to
(fit) the parts that he had. The bodies are wider and maybe longer than a stock vintage body. That is the reason it works and looks good.
Both rigs look comfortable to drive over a distance.

For many this would be a lot better than trying to fix a crusty rusty 75 year old body that they payed too much money for.
the same chassis with a stock dimension 27 T body wouldn't look the same nor would it look right with a Fiberglass 23 T bucket body.

Dang ! I think my Blue Oval buddy has a two wheel drive F 150 chassis laying around that he pulled the cab off. Oops, I said no more projects till I get all of mine caught up and done.
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  #67 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2006, 06:12 PM
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The twin Ibeam not only looks good but rides and handles pretty good too.

they also come with disc brakes,great cheap setup.

Lots of old ford trucks around, I have a few for parts myself that I will be using on my project.

They'll handle the weight of any ole big engine you might want to run.
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  #68 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2006, 05:53 PM
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Guy's I've been following this thread for a while and have been going to the junk yard to do measurements. Here is what I have found. A Ford Ranger has a 23 1/2 inch wide front frame and a 32 Ford has a 24 in wide frame in the front. The wheel base of a 32 Ford is 106 inches and the 33-34 Ford is 112 inch with the Ford Ranger at 111.5 or longer depending on model. The Ford Ranger has a twin I beam front end just like the Ford F-150. The only real difference is the Ranger has a kind of ball joint on the end of the I beam (I think it may be a set up like the old Broncos with bearings) and the F-150 has more of a King Pin looking set up. One point to note is only the two wheel drive Rangers have the twin I beam. The four wheel drive ones have a stamped steel set up.

Here's what I am proposing, are these measurements close enough to take a Ford Ranger frame and mount either a T-bucket or a 32-34 body on it. I think it would be pretty easy to shorten the Ranger frame to meet any wheel base one could want and as you can see in Cboys rod, the Ford twin I beam can be cleaned up and make a really cool looking Rod. I'm thinking of trying this, but as many of you have said, if the body and frame aren't matched it can look weird.

What do ya think?
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  #69 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2006, 08:22 PM
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dont put a t body on a stock ranger frame .... those frames look horrible, and it would probably ride way highh also
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:56 PM
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I have to agree with LowRoller, It would be easier to build a tube frame than try to clean up a Ranger frame for a T bucket.
By the time you trim all the brackets of the outside of the frame, fill all of the holes, grind it smooth and finish it to a presentable level you will have an extreme amount of time in it and it will still look out of place.
I'll have to get out to my favorite use parts emporium with my tape measure and camera and check out the Ranger front ends.
Back to the original concept of the Thread, T bucket style frames just are not that hard to build nor that expensive. I haven't priced steel tubing lately but I think I can still build a 23 T frame and have plenty of change left over from a 100.00 bill. That isn't a fancy frame but one Using 2X4 rectangular steel tubing with a suicide perch for the front spring, a kick up for the rear, A cross member under the motor mounts and a center crossmember.
If you wanted to run the Ranger or F 150 twin I beam you could put a kickup at the front to drop the front end of the car down to a respectable level.
This would require a radiator shell or nose that was in front of the axles an a full hood but It could be done. Again take a look at Cboy's front suspension and the front of his frame.
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Old 02-23-2006, 10:59 PM
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if the classic style frame you described would be under 100, the design i came up with for sparky should come out to 225 max (?)

all those extra pieces use up tube fast, but 225 for a frame still isnt bad at all
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  #72 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2006, 01:06 AM
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I was talking a pretty basic frame like the one I built in the early 70's I think that one cost me about 35.00 at the time.
Steel prices tend to vary from one local to another and one supplier to another. I get sticker shock every time I go to the steel yard lately.
Mas Racing products shows 23 t frames starting at 289.00 They don't have a web site and years ago they didn't make anything untill it was ordered. That is from personal experience. It took a couple of months to get a hairpin steering arm and a drag link for my T in the early 70's.
They also have traditinal T bucket front ends for a friendly price but again I would want to know about delivery time.
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Old 02-24-2006, 07:28 AM
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Wescott's (http://www.wescottsauto.com/site2003C/frame_specs.html) has all the dimensions for early Ford frames (T's to 1940). The National T-Bucket Alliance shows a nice photo spread of a simple frame being built. No measurements, but if you can figure out your wheelbase, width, and ride height, nothing else is needed! (http://www.nationaltbucketalliance.c...ssis/index.asp)
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Old 02-24-2006, 08:57 AM
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That is pretty much the frame that I was describing. I like the idea of clamping everything down to the table to keep both rails aligned.
Generally a T bucket runs on a 98 inch wheel base. I built mine with a 108 inch wheel base and liked the proportions.
The Wescot drawings are for stock frames but the measurements are there as a base for a tube frame.
A Friend up here built a 27 hiboy a few years ago using 2X6 tubing and tapered the rail from the front of the cowl forward to resemble a 32 frame. I don't have any digital photos of the car but will see if I can find a couple to scan. The car has a true 27 on 32 rails look w/o the 32 rails.
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Old 02-26-2006, 02:07 AM
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I've Been Lurking.....Sorry.... On This Thread For Awhile Now...Are The T Bucket Plans Available As A Whole Set? I Se Alot Of Thumbnails And It Seems The Thread Went A Different Direction. LRC Thanks For All Your Work!!! I Wish I Had That Kind Of Talent! Thanx rasford
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