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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2013, 12:40 PM
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I also wanted to ask about the stall I'm using. Its a summit racing 2600 stall. Is there a need to replace it to a higher stall speed or better brand while I'm in there? Transmission is a 700r4 with a shift kit.

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 06-01-2013, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammedsi View Post
Looking at the cam card. There is something I don't understand. It says that with using factory 1.5 rockers it says my total lift should be 450. But 274 x 1.5 is 411, while 1.6 comes to 438.4 lift. Am I doing my math wrong?
You're mixing lift with duration.
Gross valve lift with 1.5 rockers is 0.450". So, in order to find CAM lift, we must divide .450 by 1.5 (.450/1.5) = 0.300". Now, if we multiply the cam lift of 0.300 times the 1.6 rocker (.300 times 1.6), we find 0.480" gross valve lift.
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Old 06-01-2013, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammedsi View Post
I also wanted to ask about the stall I'm using. Its a summit racing 2600 stall. Is there a need to replace it to a higher stall speed or better brand while I'm in there? Transmission is a 700r4 with a shift kit.
The cam will be makin' power by 1800, so stallin' the motor at 2600 should make a good combination. I would think you could climb trees in low gear.
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Old 06-01-2013, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slammedsi View Post
Tech, how much are we altering the hp rating if I stick with my 600 edelbrock 1406? If there is a good bit in loss I will spend the money on a 750 cfm carb.
6 hp and 4 ft/lbs.
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Old 06-01-2013, 05:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
You're mixing lift with duration.
Gross valve lift with 1.5 rockers is 0.450". So, in order to find CAM lift, we must divide .450 by 1.5 (.450/1.5) = 0.300". Now, if we multiply the cam lift of 0.300 times the 1.6 rocker (.300 times 1.6), we find 0.480" gross valve lift.
OK, I was doing it wrong. Thanks for setting me straight.

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The cam will be makin' power by 1800, so stallin' the motor at 2600 should make a good combination. I would think you could climb trees in low gear.
Great! One less thing im going to have to spend money. Gotta keep the wife happy!

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6 hp and 4 ft/lbs.
At 6 hp difference I believe I will opt out of the 750 CFM carb. Down the road I will change it when i decide to step up to a 388
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Old 06-02-2013, 07:49 PM
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FWIW the Edelbrock heads instruction sheet I've got states that it will probably need .100" longer pushrods than stock.
In case you didn't want to get a rebuilt balancer I recommend a Powerbond Harmonic Balancer 8" Engraved Marking pn PB1046-ST. I got mine at O'Reilley's as Summit didn't carry it($130). Quite a few suggested it to me.
I believe your gonna need some taller than stock valve covers too.
Good luck,
ssmonty
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 06-02-2013, 09:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ssmonty View Post
FWIW the Edelbrock heads instruction sheet I've got states that it will probably need .100" longer pushrods than stock.
In case you didn't want to get a rebuilt balancer I recommend a Powerbond Harmonic Balancer 8" Engraved Marking pn PB1046-ST. I got mine at O'Reilley's as Summit didn't carry it($130). Quite a few suggested it to me.
I believe your gonna need some taller than stock valve covers too.
Good luck,
ssmonty
Thanks for the tip on the damper. I will look them up. Luckily i have a set of tall edelbrock valve covers.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:17 PM
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As parts start to come in i have decided to start with building the motor. Here is how she sets as of now.




Intake manifold needs to be blasted before it gets bolted on. Not very clean.
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Old 06-09-2013, 03:31 PM
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Before you pull the trigger on a damper, call these guys and talk with them.....
Damper Doctor Online: Contact Us

They re-clock OEM dampers and press them back together with new elastomeric material under hydraulic pressure. Reasonable prices.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 06-09-2013, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1 View Post
Before you pull the trigger on a damper, call these guys and talk with them.....
Damper Doctor Online: Contact Us

They re-clock OEM dampers and press them back together with new elastomeric material under hydraulic pressure. Reasonable prices.
Tech, Thanks again for all the help lately. Ive called them up and got one on order . Hey, The names Robert by the way.
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Old 06-09-2013, 10:45 PM
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I know i need to start a build thread but this will have to do for now.

Got the Intake manifold blasted today.
Before


After.


And Decided to shoot a coat or two of high heat Silver on it.

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Old 06-10-2013, 11:11 AM
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We used to have a machine shop in the back of our NAPA store, and I asked the business owner what he thought of bead-blasting an intake.

His advice was to run it through the jetwash first to clean up the majority of oily residue, the to go ahead and bead-blast it (using glass bead, not sand) ... as sand shards have a nasty habit of actually wedging into cracks and expanding them, whereas glass bead has a "peening" effect that will actually help to seal up some of those minute cracks.

The next step was, of course to blow out every crevice and bolt-hole with compressed air.

Then take it to the pressure washer. He said that I'd know I had been thorough enough when I was wetter than the intake.

Edit:
I'm a little worried for you, as it appears that you didn't even remove the manifold accessories during this sandblasting process.?
Previous thread

Last edited by 66GMC; 06-10-2013 at 11:35 AM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 01:01 PM
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.450 (theorhetical lift) / 1.5 (rocker ratio) = .300 ("lobe lift")

Lobe lift (.300") x 1.6 ("new" rocker ratio) = .480"

It really IS that simple. Note the use of "theorhetical". That's due to the hydraulic lifter. It will generally NOT deliver the full amount of lift as advertised because of the "shcok absorber" action. You will notice that word used in all advertisements by reputable cam companies concerning lift and hydraulics. You will note also, it is NOT there with "solids".

Jim
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 08:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
We used to have a machine shop in the back of our NAPA store, and I asked the business owner what he thought of bead-blasting an intake.

His advice was to run it through the jetwash first to clean up the majority of oily residue, the to go ahead and bead-blast it (using glass bead, not sand) ... as sand shards have a nasty habit of actually wedging into cracks and expanding them, whereas glass bead has a "peening" effect that will actually help to seal up some of those minute cracks.

The next step was, of course to blow out every crevice and bolt-hole with compressed air.

Then take it to the pressure washer. He said that I'd know I had been thorough enough when I was wetter than the intake.

Edit:
I'm a little worried for you, as it appears that you didn't even remove the manifold accessories during this sandblasting process.?
Previous thread
Thanks for the information 66, I used a normal portable sand blaster with fine media. I didn't remove the plugs or water neck as I have already purchased new. It was just easier this way. I will replace them as i go along on this build. Once i had it blasted, It was run through a hot tank and blew it off once done. Came out spotless. I also plugged the holes with old rags to prevent media getting into the intake itself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. P-Body View Post
.450 (theoretical lift) / 1.5 (rocker ratio) = .300 ("lobe lift")

Lobe lift (.300") x 1.6 ("new" rocker ratio) = .480"

It really IS that simple. Note the use of "theorhetical". That's due to the hydraulic lifter. It will generally NOT deliver the full amount of lift as advertised because of the "shcok absorber" action. You will notice that word used in all advertisements by reputable cam companies concerning lift and hydraulics. You will note also, it is NOT there with "solids".

Jim
Thats a good point that i never took into consideration before. Thanks for pointing that out to me.
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