[STATUTORY GRAPE]

I finally got some work done on my StreetRod frame. I made my own C-notches and box plates, boxed and notched the frame, cut approx. 6.5" out of the center of both factory crossmembers, hand fabricated the driveshaft loops (that was tricky) and cut and welded in all the 1 1/2" schedule 80 (double wall thickness) reinforcing pipe. When boxing the frame I put steel tube "bushings" between the plate and existing frame and bolted them in sqeezing the bushing between the plate and frame to minimize flexing. Not sure if it would but just want a bulletproof frame. I still have to weld on brackets for the 4-link and panhard bar. The front of the frame is not yet boxed because I haven't decided what front axle I'm going with yet. The square tubing I used for the loops was made from 8 separate pieces and was hard to fit because I had to make it a certain height and width but if you cut too much/too little angel of any piece you change the height and width, so that took a while (it took me 1 whole day for each loop) but then I'm kind of picky. So I would like some opinions/constructive criticism on the set-up of the frame, is it strong enough for a big block, will it withstand some tweaking. I don't plan on getting rough on it but don't want it to crack or bend if I try to spin a tire. P.S., The white stuff on the frame is where I put some polyester glazing putty to cover up some grind scratches and make everything look smoother.

[37ford4dr]

that looks really good !!! i may be followiing your foot steps here soon.....when you did the interior cross bracing did you beef up the inside of the boxed frame where the tubing is welded to the "interior new side of the frame"? I can't imgine the center part of your frame twisting with that set up.

[yesgo]

The original engineers will be envious for sure. Stupid bean counters

[STATUTORY GRAPE]

Yeah, I beefed it up a bit. If you look in the first pic, you can see the bolt heads on the outside of the frame. Notice everywhere the tubing meets the frame, I beefed it up by bolting a steel bushing between both sides of the frame wall, that way if it trys to flex it will have to move both walls of the frame. That should help strengthen my welds in those areas also. Then,,I put the piping right over the bolt head on the inside of the frame and welded the piping to the frame, that way it still looks somewhat smooth on the inside and you can't see those ugly bolts sticking out of my inside frame rail

[37ford4dr]

Originally Posted by STATUTORY GRAPE

Yeah, I beefed it up a bit. If you look in the first pic, you can see the bolt heads on the outside of the frame. Notice everywhere the tubing meets the frame, I beefed it up by bolting a steel bushing between both sides of the frame wall, that way if it trys to flex it will have to move both walls of the frame. That should help strengthen my welds in those areas also. Then,,I put the piping right over the bolt head on the inside of the frame and welded the piping to the frame, that way it still looks somewhat smooth on the inside and you can't see those ugly bolts sticking out of my inside frame rail

i like that idea, what did you do for the bushing? just piping or tubing cut to size? and then when you cinched the bolt down it compressed the two sides together....did you cinch it down before or after you welded the plates for boxing the frame...how many feet of tubing did you wind up buying for this and where did you get it. thanks bob

[STATUTORY GRAPE]

Actually, it was an idea that I thought of after the frame was boxed. I did it because of the distance between crossmembers and I was afraid the center of the plate would flex with all the tubing welded to it possibly making my box plate welds weak. I drilled a hole in the frame and a hole in the box plate. The one in the frame had to be slightly bigger so I could slide the bushing in between, then simply put a washer on the outside bolt head to compensate for the larger hole (otherwise the bolt would just bottom out on the bushing). For the bolts I wanted something strong so I used grade 5 bolts approx. the size of your index finger, and found some steel tubing the same size. The only tubing I could find around the shop for bushings was slightly smaller than the bolt so I cut the tubing to length (magically transforming it from tubing into bushing ) then I put the bushing into the vise and drilled it out slightly bigger until it snugly fit over the bolt. I wanted it to fit the bolt as tight as possible for maximum strength. Then just tightened the bolt pulling both side plates together. For total length for bushings I didn't even use a foot They were only about 2" or 2 1/2" long ( just enough to fit between the plates)

[37ford4dr]

thanks. sorry for my poorly worded question what i meant was how many feet of tubing did you wind up using to box the frame? and where did you get it thanks bob

[STATUTORY GRAPE]

I don't remember exactly how many feet I got. I think they were all 3' lengths and I cut them to fit. What I did was used 1" plastic (pvc) pipe to mock the whole thing up. That way if I didn't like how it looked or needed to make a change it was as simple as cutting plastic pipe with a hacksaw . The pipe I used was NOT cut to fit but was kind of a bear TO cut to fit. I have a nephew that works at a large steel warehouse, he can get me ANYTHING and I do mean ANYTHING. I can get steel of any shape and size. I don't remember the cost either, I got it a couple of years ago.

[ckucia]

Originally Posted by STATUTORY GRAPE

What I did was used 1" plastic (pvc) pipe to mock the whole thing up. That way if I didn't like how it looked or needed to make a change it was as simple as cutting plastic pipe with a hacksaw

That is a truly awesome idea SG.

[37ford4dr]

Originally Posted by STATUTORY GRAPE

..... What I did was used 1" plastic (pvc) pipe to mock the whole thing up. That way if I didn't like how it looked or needed to make a change it was as simple as cutting plastic pipe with a hacksaw .....

great idea i will definitely use that tip.

[ChevelleSS_LS6]

They say that the triangle is the strongest shape, at least in architecture.

So...

I think it's good.

But I don't know much regarding frame/chassis design.

[Dubz]

Originally Posted by STATUTORY GRAPE

... and cut and welded in all the 1 1/2" schedule 80 (double wall thickness) reinforcing pipe. ...

My only thought would be that pipe wouldn't be the best choice, as it's not made for the same stresses as tube is. But i would imagine with that thickness it's going to be pretty strong even if it's not ment for that purpose.

Looks like it will be quite solid

[Nightfire]

Originally Posted by ChevelleSS_LS6

They say that the triangle is the strongest shape, at least in architecture.

So...

I think it's good.

But I don't know much regarding frame/chassis design.

Isnt a dome in architecture the strongest shape?

Looking great SG, what body is going on it?


Mike

[37ford4dr]

Originally Posted by Nightfire

Isnt a dome in architecture the strongest shape?


Mike

no its not...depends where the load is coming from..... a dome is ok for pressure coming down on it....but if the force comes from the side its all over....the triangle is really quite a good shape for stresses.

[STATUTORY GRAPE]

It's going to be a '50's pickup. So far I've chopped the top 5 1/2" ,chopped the doors and suicided the doors , It really is time consuming but I keep picturing the end result in my head and it gives me faith. It's going to be a Pro Street when I'm done. I'm not going to actually race it, I just like the look. I'll try to post some pics of the truck Thursday A.M. so everybody check back here.