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Old 06-06-2006, 08:29 PM
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Crosley, Questions for ya?

I am contemplating doing some valve body stuff and need to have some seperator plates punched out.
Do you guys do this in house or have a company that produces yours for you?

Basically looking for a company that can take my prototype and make me multiple copies accurately.

Also,
TH400 hydraulics. My understanding is that the pressure drops on a 2-3 shift because of the modulator valve. I assume this is why some manual kits grind the modulator land off?
I have a TH400 with TransGo Stage II that had direct clutch failure (600+HP). Air checks good, all else is great, operated fine but hurt the directs within a few weekends of racing. I think it simply didn't have enough pressure in 3rd gear (pump is in great shape, new gears, les than .002 clearance, checked for flat to prevent crossleaks).
Problem resolved using a full manual VB...

My theories are that the auto/manual kit doesn't give the pressure needed and the dual feed by seperator plate may be too slow feeding fluid completely.

Anyway,
Thanks for any input.

Jake

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Old 06-06-2006, 08:45 PM
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Our plates are manufactured by an outside vendor .... I do not know which company.

Why would you run a TransGO plate with that type of horse power? The T-G plate is great for motor homes when they used the t-400 tranny years ago


I'd build the trans internally to dual feed direct clutch with 7 or 8 frictions in the direct clutch.

The pressure setup on the modulator valve is for pressure cut back in3rd gear. Grinding the land and blocking the small hole in the separator plate removes that circuit function. This also delays the shift to 3rd gear till a higher speed / vacuum is reached

Full manual forward pattern v-body works well in that hp application..... Disable the reverse boost circuit & install an aluminum plug in place of the modualtor will provide a stable main line pressure in all gears.
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Old 06-06-2006, 09:10 PM
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Tony,
I've ran the TH350 TG kit to over 600 HP reliably, I do some changes to it (feed holes) but haven't had issue.

The TH400 I used the same setup for over 2 years, hundreds of passes, but at the ~400-450HP level no issues (that trans is still alive in another car).
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Old 06-06-2006, 09:12 PM
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Also,
You're welcome to add any input to this thread anytime (I'm not done with it yet)

http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=53671
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Old 06-07-2006, 07:05 AM
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Look at the design of the T-350 TG (& others) plate to the t-400 plate. Much simpler and direct if you follow my line of thought.

The oil pressure gets to the t-400 directs with the TG plate , just not with great speed as you mention. With 600 hp and good traction the direct clutch would suffer. If the motor is spray'd , then it will certainly suffer.


I would suggest IF possible use some thin aluminum plate @ .050 thick to create your own separator plate. That may not work well if you are on the path of a multiplate setup as Transgo uses on the t-400. Or perhaps a thicker mid plate of a 3 plate stackup would provide a larger path for the oil travel.

Sometimes I wonder how these tranny parts hold up with engine dyno tech cards I read..... 1150 - 1350 hp on the motor, they leave with a 250 shot and then spray an additional 400 hp with the use of timers.

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Old 06-07-2006, 08:06 PM
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Tony,
I have no intention of making a snadwiched plate like the TG, I want to play with some VB stuff on the 200-4R and 4L80's when I get a chance..050" alum plate would work great.
One of the Th350's I mentioned was sprayed but that 600 HP figure was with the spray, but a RWHP figure also, so pretty hefty power for a TH350. That particular trans also had a 4 cltuch direct pack as amazing as that is. Alto reds with stock steels. TG kit with the beefier spring, enlarged feed to 2nd and 3rd, but all the checkballs as per TG. Lasted 2 seasons with no need for freshening. Rear diff broke causing the input ring gear to split from the 3 thrust tang grooves. Tore it apart to repair, inspected everything, replaced the forwards because the broken ring gear had bent the splines on the frictions, and slid it back together.
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Old 06-07-2006, 11:01 PM
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If you go the aluminum plate route....... find and use the 1/4" nylon check balls if your designs need check balls.

they wear on the aluminum less than steel check balls will........... obviously
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Old 06-08-2006, 12:03 PM
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Never mind, not important.

Last edited by Jmark; 06-08-2006 at 08:47 PM.
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