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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldbogie
5 quarts is probably adequate but again the high power extraction you're proposing is going to get the oil hot, therefore, a cooler is a good idea. Living were you do the cooler should have a thermostatic bypass to route the oil around the cooler when it isn't hot enough to require some temperature removal.
.........
Bogie
Use of synthetic oil will negate the need for an oil cooler. Synthetic oil can provide protection far above what normal oils can handle and flow particularly well when cold. I'd worry more about the overall engine temperature. Make sure to have the biggest radiator possible and keep the engine temps between 180-190 degrees.

tom

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:35 PM
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Ok guys, I always use synthetic, and with the time and money I have in this project, and skimping will not happen! My K2500 does have a factory cooler that runs through the factory radiator. In the winter it warms it up faster, summer keeps it about coolant temps. So should that be adequate? Also about the big block pump, would that be just a stock pump or is that a HV pump also? And would a stock pickup fit it?
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:42 PM
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Forget about the big block pump. It will need a custom pan/pickup and doesn't work that well.. This is old school also. Been there in the seventies. No improvement in oiling for the problems. Caused weird ign/distrib/wear problems also.

The tried and proven system for years is a Melling M55A pump with correct pan. Thousands of left turners find this to be all most fool proof..
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Old 12-20-2010, 07:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_1080
Ok guys, I always use synthetic, and with the time and money I have in this project, and skimping will not happen! My K2500 does have a factory cooler that runs through the factory radiator. In the winter it warms it up faster, summer keeps it about coolant temps. So should that be adequate? Also about the big block pump, would that be just a stock pump or is that a HV pump also? And would a stock pickup fit it?
As long as there has never been a bearing failure and Scotch-Brite discs have never been used in any previous engine repair, the factory cooler will be fine. The use of an HV pump in any persuasion will cost extra horsepower in any case and the engine will still see no more oil than what a stock pump will provide. The added drag is not worth it when there is no real advantage to the HV pump.

No a stock pick up will not work. You will have to use a BB pickup and hope it fits into your pan.

tom
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2010, 07:54 PM
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And about Scotch Brite discs.. I had another "Certified" mechanic bring in some aluminum heads just this morning. Said he had "Checked them out" but still had gasket sealing problem.. Had to mill .017" off each to get flat surface. All Scotch Brite patterns..
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-20-2010, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_1080
And back to my first question, would the stock 5 quart pan be sufficient?
Not in my opinion. The reason is, you're plowing w/this rig- that demands you to sometimes get a "running start" at a berm or snow bank. Often, severe angles are encountered, etc.. That will slosh and foam the hell out of the oil in the sump unless there's baffling in place to keep the pickup covered.

I'd use a deeper than stock pan and pickup, with the ability to maintain oil control- possibly w/a kick-out if there are any problems w/clearances, although this probably isn't going to be an issue w/your truck.

At the VERY least, use additional baffling to keep the oil covering the pickup and from climbing the back of the pan and be sure the pickup is correctly located and is securely fastened to the pump itself.
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Old 12-20-2010, 10:17 PM
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Would you believe the stock pan has a baffel, and a factory windage plate? I opened it up and was plesantly suprised! It was factory, so it may not be the best, but was suprised to find it none the less! Just trying to share what I have so others can learn, just as I have from you guys!
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 08:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_1080
Would you believe the stock pan has a baffel, and a factory windage plate? I opened it up and was plesantly suprised! It was factory, so it may not be the best, but was suprised to find it none the less! Just trying to share what I have so others can learn, just as I have from you guys!
We have fleets of snow-plow trucks here. Stock pans and baffling are more than adequate.

tom
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_1080
Would you believe the stock pan has a baffel, and a factory windage plate? I opened it up and was plesantly suprised! It was factory, so it may not be the best, but was suprised to find it none the less! Just trying to share what I have so others can learn, just as I have from you guys!
Better than nothing. I don't even straight-line drag race w/a stock pan, so I suppose I'm prejudiced against using a shallow, poorly baffled pan- the same "baffle" that's been used since forever, almost. Fine for casual use, less so for snowplowing, etc..

If you plan on doing the best you can w/this engine- and not cutting important corners-
Quote:
Originally Posted by CJ_1080
...with the time and money I have in this project, ...skimping will not happen!
at least do some research into the benefits of proper oil control under the conditions your plow truck will see. If after doing that, you see no need to heed my advice, so be it.

I don't know (nor does anyone else here) if you plow like the day will never end, and time isn't money, and you can E A S E into each and every berm and bank. If this is the case you might get away w/o anything more than the L31-type 2/3 windage tray and the shallow, floor baffled OEM pan.

BUT- if you plan on occasionally having to lean hard on your equipment- and to have it survive whatever you throw at it w/o issue, I believe it would be a mistake to ignore something as important as proper oil control.

At the end of the day, it's your money and your prerogative.

Good luck w/whatever you decide.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2010, 05:33 PM
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I have been known to "drive it like I stole it" occasionally! I am absolutely amazed I got 330,000 out of it! Beating on it in a truck with a 7400 pound curb weight (without plow, salter, and salt). My next question is how does a crank scraper work and would it be necessary for my application? I put a Moroso 7 quart deep pan on order. It is suposto be a baffeled pan and comes with a pickup. I decided a little more now may save my hide (and marriage) down the road!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2010, 12:49 AM
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With a good Moroso pan and pickup, I'd be content w/the OE windage tray and no scraper.

The scraper is a thin piece of sheet metal, contoured to match the crankshaft's throws and counterweights so as to be close but not actually in contact w/the crank. It's purpose is to rid the rotating crank of any oil that has attached itself to to it.

Sometimes the scraper is built into the oil pan, other times it's added on after being custom fit to the engine and is secured by using the pan bolts.

It can be worth a HP or two, more in some applications- but if you're using basically "tight" (as in not over 0.003") bearing clearances, stock rod side clearances, and you're not pumping excessive oil upstairs that would be draining back down onto the crank, there's really not enough gains to bother, IMHO.


SBC CRANK OIL SCRAPER

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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 12-23-2010, 01:24 AM
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I would be willing to bet if you sandblasted your factory pan it would be swiss cheese and held together with paint at that mileage, the Moroso pans are thicker and better made...definetly worth the upgrade.

Stick with the factory pump, lasted you 300K miles right?
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