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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 06-30-2007, 09:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
...in post #25 you say you cut the purple wire off in the manual it states all wires must be hooked up for it to work correctly or @ all.
Interesting because I just found this post on another forum.

Quote:
Most cruise installers are unaware that in order for the cruise to work the violet (purple) wire MUST be grounded. It receives it's ground through the filaments in the brake lights. If one or more stop lights burn out, the ground on the violet wire will have too much resistance in it.
In fact, the entire thread this came from pertains to our discussion here. It is here http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID~82435~PN~2

As I best understand this, my cruise might not work at all with the LED tail lights because they wouldn't provide the ground that the filament bulbs provide. In addition, you are correct about cutting the purple wire. The ground would come through this wire.

Anyhow, tomorrow I'm going to replace the LED's with the original bulbs, go back and reconnect ALL the wiring as it was originally, and test it out. If the cruise then works, I'll have to figure out an alternative way to connect the LED lights (I really need them to provide brighter tail and turn lights.)

It's going to take me a while to undo all the changes I've made so probably won't report back until tomorrow afternoon.

Here's hopin' we're zeroing in on this thing because it's driving me nuts.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 12:59 AM
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Doc here,

I just read that thread..

OK, Here is a quick and dirty test..hook a 12 volt lamp to the LED brake lamp wire (in addition to..) and the purple wire with it, and ground the lamp to ground, Then test drive it..

IF they are Correct..It should work..

Quote:
Most cruise installers are unaware that in order for the cruise to work the violet (purple) wire MUST be grounded. It receives it's ground through the filaments in the brake lights. If one or more stop lights burn out, the ground on the violet wire will have too much resistance in it.
And IF that IS the case..(and it DOES make sense to a degree with the spurious readings at the LEDs prior) Then replace the bulb for a 1N4001 Diode from the brake lamp switch, and measure the filament resistance of the bulb, then match that to a ceramic Resistor of about 5 watts at Rat Shak or Fry's..

The 1N4001 is for isolation between the purple wire and the brake lamp system..

What the Hey...worth a shot..

Doc

BTW: If I'm in and out of here the next few days in short cryptic messages..I am still having micro~Nazi problems..

SO far, the (MS Software,) has made me activate windows 6 times.., cutting off my access until I do..

then I have to go by phone because it has been registered too many times..Then I ended up with the "Tech" dept (yeah..right..) Who say "you have a windows software problem..and try to fix it over the phone making it WORSE each time..

until I finally ended up with the blue screen of death..When I promptly hung up on the arse..after relating something about his mother's breeding habits..(probably would have been more effective if I could Speak his language..Which I could barely understand..)

Spent 2 days, 6 hours a whack on the phone with them..to make it worse..

NOW I got them calling me..which I refuse at this point to answer..On my own in the last four hours, I have managed to go from a total non~Boot situation No monitor, no audio, no mouse, no KBD, No serial buss, to where it is now, up and running pretty stable..

I think I solved their Glitch..(on activate Windows on each start up) Day~um..If I'm tellin' them how to do it..

So If it stays that way I'll be fine..If not It'll be short visits here between failures..

Doc
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 06:13 AM
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On post #22 on this thread I suggested you add some conventional lamps {scabbed on} to the tail lamps hell they could be on the inside no one has to see them but the gremlins in your trunk LOL


Doc
P C Forum

I go here to the PC forum when I got problems they are the PC version of here but I have to admit I am very green with PC's. I am sure someone there can probably fix you up so it don't happen again




Good luck both of ya!

Im gonna read the other thread when I wkae up & inject nore coffee into me. {snort snore....}







R
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 06:37 AM
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I Remember reading a "Doc " thread explaining how a typical flasher won't let L E D's work .

Many many moons ago.

So I just had a thought ,as to your mystery feedback power .

Possibly one of your flashers {electronic type I assume} could be getting ready to go & leaking or feeding back into the brake system triggering the cruise to kick out "fooling " the tern they use in the PDF manual Into not working properly.

So also try replacing the flashers.



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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 06:52 AM
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These resistors appear to be made for this (and similar) problem http://www.eautoworks.com/html/ORD-1-1-1-33226.cfm and here is another good discussion of the issue http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1731177
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 11:02 AM
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So either go back to standard bulbs or wire in 2 of them resistors.& get a few for in stock!

BUT
.
.
.


no
.
.
.
.


I shouldn't ask...
.
.
.



Why did it work for 20,000 miles?






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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 12:52 PM
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Fat City. It works. I wired a regular incandescent brake light bulb into both the right and the left rear brake light wiring, patched up the "purple" wire to the CC and bingo...the cruise works like a champ.

I may do something differently later but for the moment I just blacked out the two regular bulbs with electric tape and tucked them up into the frame where they won't show.

And Rob, the reason it worked for the last 20K miles is that I didn't have the LED's installed and the cruise will work just fine as long as it senses those rear incandescent bulbs in the system. I swapped in the LED's just before leaving for Back to the 50's. And that's the approximate time my cruise went away. It all makes perfect sense now.

BTW, I'm going to start a new thread with a more appropriate title that will basically point people to this thread. Might make this info easier to find for someone else with a similar experience.

Thanks again to ALL who helped out on this. I have a few new gray hairs but I'm feelin' pretty much on top of the world at the moment.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 12:57 PM
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Soooo
Are the lights now off when the car is in the garage???

(Thought it might have something to do with the cruise, but I'm not smart enough to have been pinpointing as the others have)

Bryan
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 01:05 PM
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EXCELLENT!!!!






That will learn ya not to mess with stuff that ain't broken LOL!

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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:09 PM
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Doc here,

Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
NEXT , I believe the Cruise control MAY NOT be compatible with LED tail/Brake lamps..OR it has a MAJOR malfunction..( this is more likely) Sooo, your faced with two choices..Pull the CC completely out..box it up and send it back defective..OR you Could get a DUEL brake lamp switch..Which , other than leakage, IF the CC will work, MAY solve ALL the problems.

The Duel brake lamp switch would be identical to a single switch EXCEPT it has Four sets of contacts..two for Brake lamps (Hot and Lamps) and Two for Cruise Control (hot and disconnect) Both would be isolated circuits from one another..

IF you can't find a Duel brake lamp switch for your application, you Can use a relay and achieve the same result..
This MAY be the permanent Cure for your Rod..

I think the relay would be easiest to do..Nothing else to mount to the column switch hole..just wire it as follows..
  • RELAY COIL: Terminal 85 to the Brake lamp wire.

  • RELAY COIL: Terminal # 86 to a properly bonded ground.

  • RELAY CONTACT: Terminal # 30 to the PURPLE wire.

  • RELAY CONTACT: Terminal # 87 to a 1N4001 Diode (option, but recommended) and 1.0 OHM resistor, Ceramic composition, About 5 watts current rating.

The Diode is used in case of a back flow where it is not needed or wanted or in case of not enough wattage consumed through the resistor..the wire won't Dead short..you could get by without the diode though..

You may also need a 2.0 Ohm resistor, IF the cruise Control looks at BOTH lamps as One value..BUT I think in this application, the 1.0 will do the job..

I just measured the resistance of a standard 1157 filaments..the Signal/Brake Filament is .9 to 1,0 OHMS, the Tail Filament is 2.0 Ohms..

Also, the duel Switch with the resistor/diode will work just fine as it offers circuit Isolation..

Fine Job CBOY!

BTW: I "stuck" your other thread at the top of the Forum..
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bryan59EC
Soooo
Are the lights now off when the car is in the garage???

(Thought it might have something to do with the cruise, but I'm not smart enough to have been pinpointing as the others have)

Bryan
Doc here

HEY!!!

Didn't have enough computer to post yesterday..BUT HAPPY B'Lated BIRTHDAY Dude..!!!!

Have a good Birthday..

Mine was shared with Micro~Nazi's and the Blue Screen of Death Due to MS "Need To Activate windows" Software glitch Every time I turned the Computer on..ARGGGGGGGG!!!!!!!!!!!

It appears every time "Micro Soft thinks" (and this was not in my case) Your Computer has had Major Hardware Changes, THEY , in their Paranoia, Want you to RE~Activate Windows AND "Lock" you out of your Computer until you do..I guess they think your lending your hard drive out???? Anyway, I Had to go into windows and fix it..so far...so good...

Doc
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Fat City. It works. I wired a regular incandescent brake light bulb into both the right and the left rear brake light wiring, patched up the "purple" wire to the CC and bingo...the cruise works like a champ.

I may do something differently later but for the moment I just blacked out the two regular bulbs with electric tape and tucked them up into the frame where they won't show.

And Rob, the reason it worked for the last 20K miles is that I didn't have the LED's installed and the cruise will work just fine as long as it senses those rear incandescent bulbs in the system. I swapped in the LED's just before leaving for Back to the 50's. And that's the approximate time my cruise went away. It all makes perfect sense now.

BTW, I'm going to start a new thread with a more appropriate title that will basically point people to this thread. Might make this info easier to find for someone else with a similar experience.

Thanks again to ALL who helped out on this. I have a few new gray hairs but I'm feelin' pretty much on top of the world at the moment.
Doc here,

CBOY,

Thanks To you!

This made a pretty Darn Good Thread!

BTW: I renamed this one..and "Stuck" your other to the top of the Forum..

Doc
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-01-2007, 07:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
BTW: I renamed this one..and "Stuck" your other to the top of the Forum.
Good thinking.

And to Bryan, yes the lights are now off.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 10-01-2010, 09:28 AM
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What I think you need is to provide a 'load' to the flasher/LED.

One option that is probably the easiest to install is to add a 'LED Dummy Load'. It is installed inline with the LED light you are trying to get working. It provides resistance that a normal bulb would usually provide. With tail lights, you will need one 'dummy load' installed inline with each tail light.

The dummy load can be found here (http://*****************).

Hope this helps!

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Old 10-01-2010, 12:08 PM
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cruise control

Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
Well, that's what I though too but here is what the manual says:

*******************

"To test the Green and Yellow wires, the Ignition Switch and Cruise Control Switch must both be turned on and left ON.

OPEN CIRCUIT SWITCH

8 Green + 12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.

6 Yellow + 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.

CLOSED CIRCUIT SWITCH

8 Green 0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
+12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.

6 Yellow + 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released"

***************************

I don't see the difference between what they call an "open circuit" and a "closed circuit" test. In each case you simply turn the switch for that wire on and test and then you turn the switch off and test. And note in the intro section to these test that it says the ignition and main power must be turned on AND LEFT ON during both tests.
I could not get the wiring diagram to open, but what your manual is saying is not the same.
Open circuit switch, Both wires have 12v when pressed, and ov when released.
closed circuit switch, 8 green has ov when pressed, and 12v when released.
6 yellow has 12v when pressed and 0v when released.
8 is for the set/coast switch.
6 is for the set/accel switch.
Is this a stock cruise control, or is it a after market, and if it is a after market what would it be. If it is after market I have a pretty good idea what board it is. Right now all you would know from what we have here, is there 12vdc or not. It doesn't even say if that is what you should have, or what you should do next let alone what to do to fix it. Are those numbers on the fuse board, and thats where you put that wire. I can't do anything with out a wiring diagram. and I don't think anybody can unless they have a wiring diagram, or maybe had the same trouble. It does no good to throw ideas at you with electricity you have to think it out. Break it down in small bits, and never put a circuit ar switch aside until you are sure it's not in the problem.
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