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Old 06-27-2007, 09:15 PM
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Cruise Control Compatibility with LED's?

My cruise control (Audiovox CCS100) went south the day we left for "Back to the 50's." I just pulled out the manual today and the trouble shooting section says to test two of the wires with an "open circuit switch" and also with a "closed circuit switch". I'm not sure what this means and the manual gives no additional clues. The voltage meter readings are supposed to be different depending on if it's an open circuit or closed circuit.

If it would help to see what I'm referring to the manual is located here http://www.audiovox.com/webapp/wcs/s...1067&langId=-1
Click on "find a manual" and the pdf file will open up. Troubleshooting is on page 13.

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Old 06-27-2007, 09:56 PM
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A open circut is the switch off
A closed circut is the switch on.


Does that help any?






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Old 06-27-2007, 11:24 PM
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Yeah- more generally, a closed circuit is a complete electrical path. -the electricity will flow through the circuit from one end to the other.
Open circuits will behave as if there is a open section in the circuit- giving the electricity no where to flow.
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Old 06-28-2007, 06:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
A open circut is the switch off
A closed circut is the switch on.
Well, that's what I though too but here is what the manual says:

*******************

"To test the Green and Yellow wires, the Ignition Switch and Cruise Control Switch must both be turned on and left ON.

OPEN CIRCUIT SWITCH

8 Green + 12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.

6 Yellow + 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.

CLOSED CIRCUIT SWITCH

8 Green 0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
+12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.

6 Yellow + 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released"

***************************

I don't see the difference between what they call an "open circuit" and a "closed circuit" test. In each case you simply turn the switch for that wire on and test and then you turn the switch off and test. And note in the intro section to these test that it says the ignition and main power must be turned on AND LEFT ON during both tests.
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Old 06-28-2007, 07:00 AM
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Open circuit switch means that it operates in the ( normally open) position, when in use. In other words, the voltage will not go through ( it is open ) when in operation. closed is the opposite.
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildman1932
Open circuit switch means that it operates in the ( normally open) position, when in use. In other words, the voltage will not go through ( it is open ) when in operation. closed is the opposite.
I understand that open has no current going through it and closed does have current...but I don't understand what the difference is between the two tests indicated in the troubleshooting manual (see prior post with quote). Am I not reading those test procedures correctly? In both tests (for open circuit and closed circuit) the ignition is ON, the cruise main switch is ON, and the two wires/switches being tested are turned on for the first test and off for the second. Yet the results of the test are supposed to be opposite (one should show 12 volts and the other should show 0 volts).
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Old 06-28-2007, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
I don't see the difference between what they call an "open circuit" and a "closed circuit" test. In each case you simply turn the switch for that wire on and test and then you turn the switch off and test. And note in the intro section to these test that it says the ignition and main power must be turned on AND LEFT ON during both tests.
All they mean is the key must be on{not necessarily running} & the switch for the cruise must be in the on position.

Let me see if I can simplify this

{Yea me simplify }

When you have a electrical problem 99% of the time it is a open circuit now just because I said open doesn't mean the switch is turned off, it might be a broken wire a bad connection @ a plug or a resistor or diode or them other things in the system basically electric flows like water in a pipe.
there has to be enuf volume & Pressure to make the water flow.
same with Electric there has to be enuf voltage amperes & continuity for it to work.

So when they {who ever "they" are} say...


Quote:
CLOSED CIRCUIT SWITCH
8 Green 0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
+12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released

They are saying that the switch is the "on" position & that the #8 wire [green] should be @ 0 {zero} VDC {Volts Direct Current} then when you press the switch it activates the electronics inside the computer & then should go to 12+ VDC. when you let off thus said switch {most likely a spring loaded button}


Don't let it put the whammy on you its only wires & stuff they can get a bit confuding for old feble farts like me when you are having a bout with CRS but its Simple .

Sometimes you just have to back up & visualize what is supposed to be happening there & see the big picture & then zoom back in on the problem .


Well I hope this helps






R
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Keller
All they mean is the key must be on{not necessarily running} & the switch for the cruise must be in the on position.

Well I hope this helps.


I understand your explaination perfectly...but you only talk about one part of the test - the Closed Circuit Switch test. Please explain to me the Open Circuit Switch test. If the Ignition must be ON and the main cruise switch must be ON... what circuit is "Open"? These two test proceedures side by side simply are not making any sense to me.
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Old 06-28-2007, 02:54 PM
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Ok I think I got it.

The two tests are indeed identical. The difference lies in what type of switches you have, NO (normally open) or NC (normally closed). I'm going to presume you have NO switches. If that is true, the NC part of the test would be irrelevant.


The manual provides a fairly decent voltage check on the wiring harness, do the voltages check out ok?

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Old 06-28-2007, 04:02 PM
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The open test is to make sure that it is indeed OPEN & the Closed is to make sure that it is closed .

There must be a printed board & or relay{'s} So if a relay was say sticking in the closed position then the "OPEN " test will show that.

OK
Back to the water metaphor .

The open & closed test would be the same as checking the sink to see if water comes out .

Just because you turned the valve off , you turned the handle but you assume the valve is operating .
It could be rotted off on the inside in the open position & you just think its closing.
You Will not know until you check the sink.

Thus the open & closed test.

At least that is my expert {yea right } interpretation .

OK the real burning Question here is :

Where the hell is Doc Vette ?

LOL

I'm just saying he writes SOOOOooo much better than I.
He has a better vocabulary

Some one send up the Bat..I mean the Doc single

LOL

Did that make it more understandable?




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Old 06-28-2007, 04:50 PM
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Doc here,

NO....

THEY are not identical...

Look at the first set of parameters..

Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
OPEN CIRCUIT SWITCH

8 Green + 12 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the SET / COAST switch is released.

6 Yellow ---->+ 12 VDC <----when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
---->0 VDC <----when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released.
THEN, Look at the second set of parameters:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cboy
CLOSED CIRCUIT SWITCH

8 Green ---->0 VDC<---- when the SET / COAST switch is pressed.
---->+12 VDC <----when the SET / COAST switch is released.

6 Yellow + 12 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is pressed.
0 VDC when the RESUME / ACCEL switch is released"
For some reason the 8 green and 6 yellow are being changed at the open/closed operation of the circuit..

What is the problem?

BTW: Sorry for the late reply..Having problems with Micro Nazis..every 3 months it wants me to "Activate windows" because "Major hardware changes have been made to this computer" (none have..) and locks me out of windows for 6 to 8 hours while I am on the phone to some idiot that can't speak English, trying to get it fixed..(which they haven't done yet..)

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Old 06-28-2007, 05:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by docvette
What is the problem?
I think the problems is I must not be asking my question correctly.

In the two "parameters" you pointed to the tester does the exact same thing. In the case of the green wire, he/she presses the Set/Coast switch and looks at the meter. He/she then releases the Set/Coast and looks at the meter.

In parameter one, the result is supposed to be 12v when pressing the switch and 0 volts when the switch is released.

In parameter two, the result is supposed to be 0 volts when pressing the switch and 12 volts when the switch is release.

Why would there be ANY difference. Nothing else in the test procedure has changed (or at least no one has indicated there has been any change at all in the system or circuitry). In other words you are pressing and releasing the Set/Coast switch twice in a row. One time it's supposed to get one set of results and the next time it's supposed to get the opposite results.

PLEASE, somebody tell me the difference between parameter one and parameter two of the green wire test procedure.
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Old 06-28-2007, 05:27 PM
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Doc here,

OK, I see it now..AND it looks like a misprint..should read on one as "when switch is pressed" and on the other as : when switch is released"..

Call Customer service, I'll just bet they'll verify this.

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Old 06-28-2007, 09:10 PM
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I missed that one.

My symapthties about the tech service .
I get to deal with DEM peoples about 2 ~3 times a month Cell phone /internet/TV never ends & they barly speak english. habla bla bblaabababbaa

sorry i missed that one cboy

WOW that was easy Hey Doc Where is that muti Billion dollar Lotto tickit?.

Still @ the lotto store




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Old 06-29-2007, 08:09 AM
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Doc,

Which line do you think is mis-printed? Is it the main heading "OPEN CIRCUIT SWITCH" or is it the parameter for the green wire testing? You may have found a problem totally separate from the one that is causing my confusion.

Let my trying asking the question a bit differently.

When the manual says "Closed Circuit Switch", what circuit/switch are they talking about? Is it the main circuit (ignition and cruise on/off switch) or is it, for example, the SET/COAST, green wire, sub-circuit?
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