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Old 12-02-2008, 10:16 PM
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Crush sleeve... can someone 'splain it to me?

I consider myself to be a kick-butt hotrodder... BUT...

I have never really torn into a rear axle. I have looked at diagrams and exploded views, but the idea of a crush sleeve eludes me.

I currently am starting a rear axle build on an 8.5" and I have a solid spacer/reluctor instead of a crush sleeve. I always wondered about the dynamics of the crush sleeve and why it was used/how it was used.

Can someone 'splain it to me like I'm a 10-year-old? I want to know the tech behind it, how they work, why they work, etc.

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Old 12-02-2008, 10:32 PM
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Nothing high tech curtis,Just think of it as a adjustable spacer that set's the preload for the inner and outer pinion brg's. As far as why it was used in the beginning,I'm not sure I know the answer,My first thought would be the time factor in building the diff at the factory,Its alot faster to use a crush sleeve than to set the preload with a solid spacer.
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Old 12-02-2008, 10:37 PM
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You doing a complete O/H with gears or just a brg job?
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Old 12-03-2008, 03:05 AM
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Complete O/H... stripping the housing bare, a little rust cleanup on the outside and paint, new bearings, eaton posi, cast girdle/preload cover and 4.10s.
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:10 AM
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A crush sleeve is an easy way for mfg to save time assembling the rear end. Simple. Put in a crush sleeve and torque to a value. The spring effect of the buckling of the sleeve provides a calculated/estimated preload greater than any forces that can unload it. It makes up for a number of machining tolerances such as the distance between the bearings, how much the pinion shaft stretchs during the torquing of the flange nut, the position of the gear relative to the bearings on the end of the pinion shaft, and how much the housing moves around during assembly.

Each operation in the machinging and mfg of a rear end is probably one minute or less so there simply is not time enough in the scheme of things to be using adjustable shims.

The ones that do use shims are using them based on a pre-determined schedule of measurements. It takes machinery that can measure quickly and accurately then selectively install the proper shims. When you torque the flange nut to 300-400 lbs/ft something is going to stretch a little so you have some built in forgiveness. As long as the bearing is loaded and not loose or excessively tight, it will run a long time.......untill us hotrodders add 3-4 times the rated torque and bust everything. haha

I worked in a major engine manufacturing plant and no machining or assembly operation took more than 50 seconds all the way through the final engine assembly.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by curtis73
Complete O/H... stripping the housing bare, a little rust cleanup on the outside and paint, new bearings, eaton posi, cast girdle/preload cover and 4.10s.
If you haven't done so,grab a extra inner pinion brg M802048 and outer pinion brg M88048 and get a little sanding wheel that will fit on the end of your die grinder and hone those out so they will slide on and off your new pinion. The extra 18 to 20 bucks will make life way easier for you.

Those pinion brg numbers are for 8.5 2000 and older. If you need some help reading your pattern or help with shimming let me know and I can get ya thru it.
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Old 12-03-2008, 11:45 AM
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Nice tip prostreet......dates back to the times when rolling bearings were called 'anti friction bearings'. haha

Also why cylindrical flap wheels were invented.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by prostreet6t9
If you haven't done so,grab a extra inner pinion brg M802048 and outer pinion brg M88048 and get a little sanding wheel that will fit on the end of your die grinder and hone those out so they will slide on and off your new pinion. The extra 18 to 20 bucks will make life way easier for you.
I assumed they would need the press-fit, but I will do that. Am I shooting for a 0 fit, or a slight press-fit?

Quote:
Those pinion brg numbers are for 8.5 2000 and older. If you need some help reading your pattern or help with shimming let me know and I can get ya thru it.
Yup, I'll need it. I've been reading everything I can get my hands on. Rear axles and automatic transmissions are the two frontiers of my hotrodding that I've never done. So its high time I popped that cherry. I'm also cheap and I can't picture paying someone else $300 to do it for me.
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Old 12-03-2008, 12:57 PM
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Very slight press fit, More than likely you will need to do a pinion depth change and it's much easier to drop the pinion out and just grab the inner Brg and slid it off to change the shim. By using a outer dummy Brg you wont have to tap the pinion in and out of the housing.

Make note: with the dummy Brg's installed the pinion gear WILL fall out of the housing when the pinion nut is removed!!!!! So be ready! so your new pinion gear don't hit the ground!

Are you going to start with the old pinion shim or start from scratch?
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Old 12-03-2008, 01:53 PM
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[QUOTE=curtis73]I assumed they would need the press-fit, but I will do that. Am I shooting for a 0 fit, or a slight press-fit?

You don't need to worry about the press fit until you have the diff all set up, Once you have a good pattern you will pull it back apart one more time and install the tight Brg's.

What brand of gears are you using? If your new set is the american axle brand it might be the 2 step gear cut and you will need to set your backlash tighter than normal, .03 to .06, YES as tight as .03! to get a good pattern.

If I'm using a crush sleeve I DON"T use the crush sleeve during set up, Just set the pinion preload with the pinion nut. The key is to keep preload the same thru the set up. Since your using a spacer you can do the same also. If you decide to use the spacer during set up keep in mind that if you do any pinion depth changes you will need to change your preload shims also.
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