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Old 01-01-2008, 09:28 AM
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curing lamps

Ok I am sure thier is a thread some place on this site that talks about them I am just tired of looking. Which is better short wave or long wave. 220 volt models or 110. I used to work in shop years ago and we had on that had like six individual heads on two different arms, you could bake an entire pick-up box side in 30 min, I don't need anthing like that I do work for a living. I am looking for some info on one and two bulb units that are easy to store and I can use on small areas ie door,decklid, fender. I have used curelamps before but I have squat for knowlege on them and I will be buying one in the very near future. Any one know much about them that can pass along their knowledge to me.

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Old 01-01-2008, 11:03 AM
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Short wave is much better, however, much more money.

Click here for an $800 lamp

The "Med" wave do a decent job for most garages. I have two, they get the job done.

Click for a $200 lamp

Brian
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:10 AM
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Long wave –Round bucket with 4-6 flood light bulbs cost $75-150
Totally useless for today’s good paints, worked great on enamels and lacquers years ago.
Can cause more damage then good.

Medium wave –long thin bulb (28-34 inches) runs on 110 cost $150-350 depending on quality of stand.
Does what it says penetrates ½ way through the paint and draws out the solvents, works great, cost effective for home use just a lot slower then a short wave.

Short wave- single head (size of med wave) run on 110 (I have) or be like the Trisk you had at work and run on 240 or 440 with many heads.
Cost for a single head $800-1600 here again depending on quality of stand.
Short wave will go through the paint and stop at fiberglass or metal and then draw the solvents out.

Medium or short will be perfect for you with just one head that will do a hood if your stand will go high enough to cover it all.

Some have Flash settings and full cure, I think my short wave has up to 10 minutes flash and then will go to has high as 30 minutes full cook.
The clear you are using you will need the flash cycle if cooking as soon as done, I never use the flash cycle on mine.

Stand is key if you are using a lot, heavy duty wheels, with a wide stance and take a good look at arm that holds the lamp, longer the better, when doing hoods or roofs, along with hight of stand.
Last unit i bought has a swivel for lamp and that will spoil you as the lamp itself will swivel 360.
The cheaper stands can fall in paint or in corner and the bulbs are expensive as well as the repaint.

Last edited by BarryK; 01-01-2008 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 01-01-2008, 01:55 PM
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cure lamps

Guys it sounds like the medium will do I almost never need to cure in an hour or less to be able to buff or asemble to go back out the door. I got out of high production years ago when I quite the body shop. What I need is something I can depend on to cure a panel etc. like my deck lid episode, that will allow me to reshoot the next day with out putting myself in the danger zone. Barry you stated that short wave cooks clear through until it hits metal ,or fiberglass. ? will a medium wave do the same thing if you let it cure a panel from a safe distance for a longer period of time. I looked up Infratech and they state that on a medium wave model 14-100 like martin showed me you place it 24" from panel for I think it said 30 min. I have done body work long enough that I have figured out how to get through most of my hiccups,I almost never have headaches with metal work ,platic primer etc, But I will be the first to say that if I'm gonna get my but kicked the clear will do it to me every time. I have never been able to master the clears, And now days I prep up to paint complete once every 3 months. I do mostly patch work rust repair , body work ,priming. Street rods and restorations have a millon hours of prep work in them to get to that one day of glory.
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Old 01-01-2008, 04:27 PM
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No the medium will not go any deeper and do beware of the distance and the recommendations for distance.

These lamps do not cure the panel by heating the panel and the worse thing you can do with a good clear like you are using is get that metal up in the 140 area with that lamp so I disagree with the 2' mark although it also depends on wattage and amps drawn, so maybe they need that lamp 2 feet from the panel, I don't know.
I think mine is 3000W and 25 amps and I keep mine 3-4 feet away
The small short wave is 1500W and 15 amps but it is a small head, also a hand held and I use that for interior or small items and I keep that about 2 1/2 feet away, as it is a short wave.

I keep taking readings with a laser heat gage and try to keep the metal about
115-120 for safety sake.

Lower grade paints will take a higher heat point then the better urethanes and polyurethanes. I will be first to admit, I have bubbled the paint off the surface with these before over the years
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Old 01-01-2008, 05:09 PM
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Oh yeah I have boiled paint with these lamps! I saw someone who had a good idea. He had a string weighted by a little washer hanging from the lamp. If you couldn't pull this string out at full length to the paint surface you were too close. You really don't need to do this if you are the guy using them, you should remember. But with employees, it wasn't a bad idea.

And on that subject, they don't feel real "hot" a few feet away, and that is very decieving, you can cook something VERY fast. Two and a half is an absolute minimum but three feet makes me feel better.

And I have to tell you, these are one thing I wouldn't live without at home again. Another thing is a paint shaker. How I lived without one is beyond me.

Brian
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Old 01-01-2008, 06:03 PM
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I told this before, but in autobody class many years ago, I had hangers starting on a football helmet I had painted. Grab the lamp and put it on the helmet. Instructor had moved the lamp closer when I went off to do something else, and when I got back to the helmet it was warped to heck. Other students had a good laugh, and not something I forgot. Be carefull of distance on plastics as well.
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