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Old 06-23-2010, 02:43 PM
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Curious - Glaze vs a Good Wax

This is just a curiosity question.

I got into a discussion on the merits of just using a good product like Meguire's NXT or one of their carnuba products, which is all I have ever done, on a new paint job (in my case, many months later). The other guy said a machine glaze then the polish of choice was the best way to go. My contention was that it was an additional step and not required if the paint job was good enough.

Any comments??

Dave W
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Old 06-23-2010, 03:43 PM
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Mother's

I tossed all my Meguiar's stuff and replaced it with Mother's . Mother's carnuba wax is the best I have ever used. It goes on and comes off easier than Meguiar's. Mother's products I use are for hand use only. No machine waxing and buffing is required.

The steps to a show winning shine are:

1. Mother's Clay-bar system
2. Mother's Carnuba wax
3. Turtle Wax ICE
4. Re-apply Turtle Wax Ice in 24 hours. Two coats is the most you will need. Never apply Turtle Wax ICE to a surface that needs a Mother's clay-bar preparation.
5. Mother's California Gold car wash soap (when needed) A wet wash mit containing one cup of Mother's Car Wash Soap is enough for one car. Use the large Viking microfiber towels available at Amazon if not a Autozone.

My '91 S10 Blazer 4x4 is black and it shows the slightest swirl and water spot. That is why I use Mother's products. Meguiar's will work you to death for a similar shine.
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:32 PM
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MouseFink - I don't have a problem with Mother's - mostly a good bunch of products, but do prefer the Meguire's NXT and new aluminum polish. Turtle wax - don't get me started on that stuff but that's why there are dozens of brands available

As far as black, if you have some extra time, I have an F350 4x4 crew cab that is in dire need of help - and it is BLACK!!

Now, with that said, the question was glaze vs polish

Dave W
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:36 PM
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Turtle wax

Dave, as you have stated, if the paint job is good enough the glaze is not needed. Unless it's black, then all bets are off .

Vince
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Old 06-23-2010, 04:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Turtle wax

Dave, as you have stated, if the paint job is good enough the glaze is not needed. Unless it's black, then all bets are off .

Vince



------or maybe a deep red/black cherry perhaps, Vince - say possibly on a '34 Ford

And again, I'm always surprised that my paint job turned out so slick. It only has the NXT on it

Dave W
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Old 06-24-2010, 06:52 AM
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Dave,
RE: Black, if the paint is rough you need to polish first as all Glaze does is fill and lasts about 1-2 weeks.

Next option is if not real bad is clay bar the vehicle and then glaze or use the carnuba, carnuba is always the best to use, if you must use a wax because it will breathe.

As stated by someone that must know, in a previous post, any paint in any stage of its life, for a professional show job always clay bar first and then gaze or wax.

I have always said do not wax a car for long life, if you plan on keeping it and felt like a whacked out lone ranger and scorned.

However in last months Sema restoration magazine the head of R&D from BASF when asked said, "don't wax a car" I about spilled my coffee as I choked
with newfound credibility, if that is possible.
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Old 06-24-2010, 07:27 AM
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Does anyone here have an opinion of Zaino products or "system" (about $90, IIRC)?

Saw a detail place wrap their clay bars in plastic wrap (except for the side being used) so in case it was dropped, the whole bar wouldn't get dirt embedded in it. Any point in this? Seemed like a good idea, that, and/or cutting the bar in half in the first place.
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Old 06-24-2010, 09:03 AM
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Clay bar

Dropping a clay bar will risk swirls or even scratching the paint. If I were to drop one, I would toss it and get another. I have not dropped one yet. It is more difficult to clay bar the car's verticle surfaces and you will more likely drop one then. I store a used clay bar in a sandwich bag.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:20 AM
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I first used Zaino back in '99 when it was fairly unknown up here in Canada. I bought the Z1 (I think this is now replaced by a newer product), Z2 (polish) and Z5 (swirl-filler polish) and Z6 (detailer). I thought it worked awesome. The initial prep using the Z1 was a little time consuming but after that, it's all gravy. The Z2 I didn't use much as the Z5 had better swirl-filling properites and shined the same (to me) as the Z2 on a then-new black truck. Went on and came off so easy. I really like Zaino. I bought their ZPC (like a very fine cut polish or swirl remover) a few years ago and it worked okay but I'll be trying it again soon after I just cut polished my yellow truck.

The Z6 detailer is the BEST product they make. You can use it to clean glass, or cut it 50/50 with water for a claybar lubricant and as a detailer too. Great product. The Z5 works well but don't expect miracles. Think of it like a glaze that doesn't wash off so fast and has protectant properties.
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Old 06-24-2010, 11:36 AM
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I always use Mothers Carnuba wax on my vehicles.. I use the KIT Carnuba on my lawnmower ( spent hours 1 day cutting and polishing it back to a shine. not letting it go again )...
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Old 06-24-2010, 10:26 PM
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are you doing paint correction or just asking what to use? if the paints in good condition very light scratches and a daily driver then just wax it but if your wanting showroom "glass" finish going to spend some time on it. paint correction- 1. wash n dry. 2. clay the vehicle 3.compound (meguiars 105) 4.polish megs 205 5. paint sealent 6. wax optional. use the correct pads with your d/a polsher or rotary use least aggresive first to determine how far you will have to go.
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Old 06-25-2010, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 64r1
are you doing paint correction or just asking what to use? if the paints in good condition very light scratches and a daily driver then just wax it but if your wanting showroom "glass" finish going to spend some time on it. paint correction- 1. wash n dry. 2. clay the vehicle 3.compound (meguiars 105) 4.polish megs 205 5. paint sealent 6. wax optional. use the correct pads with your d/a polsher or rotary use least aggresive first to determine how far you will have to go.

The very first question I asked said I was only curious - then I said it was already done. Then I later mentioned that my DD truck needed first aid - it's beyond clay bar and possibly into Presta 1500 then swirl remover but with how thin factory CC is ........ might only get the swirl remover

Dave W
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Old 06-25-2010, 10:45 AM
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you say swirl remover but there are so many cuts available. Megs 105 is good to remove 1500 grit if you have to wet sand or damp sand. everyone has their own way of doing it and i dont judge anyone but you just cant go from compound to glaze and be done. most people after cutting will not wipe down the panels to check for swirls, micro marring or holograms and then they go straight to glaze think that will get rid of the swirls and it does not. anyway i know my answer wasnt to the question you asked i was just stating the way i do paint correction to new and used vehicles, with whatever you decide to do it will come out great just take a little time with it good luck
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Old 06-29-2010, 05:51 PM
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I have an article on a blog that may clear up your questions on waxes, polishes and cleaners. The article is not about one company and there product it just explains about waxes and polishes and there uses.

Hope this info is helpful to you and anyone else. Here's the link.
rix-trix.blogspot.com
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