Custom lower control a-arms for 1937 Buick
So here is a new approach I'm exploring allow the front suspension upgrade:
The roadblock that I ran into is that there are no lower control arms with balljoints that I have found that match the dimensions of my '37 Buick Roadmaster (see sketch). The wiki is focused on coupes that have 18" lower arms.
I have considered having a balljoint mount plate welded onto the existing arm.
I have considered making a transition plate that is bolted, or welded, to the frame to attach a shorter arm (probably a Chevy C10 truck lower arm).
Another option may be to have a custom lower control arm built that matches the current geometry.
1) Does anyone have a company they would recommend to build a custom lower control arm?
2) Which approach do you all think will have the best results.
You could take out the link pins stuff, modify the upper and lower arms to accept regular GM ball-joints and use an early Camaro spindle and breaks. With all of that it should drop the car about 3"
37 buick front end
My son is into off roading and he was telling me to go to a off road fab shop to inquire about this problem. I have a 39 Buick which has a similar front suspension and am thinking about that same problem. Long ago I saw an article where a 50,s buick had used 60,s or 70,s ford lower Arm ball joint mounts welded to the buick lower A arms, and fabricated tubular upper A arms. Used Ford spindles of the same era.
I'm leaning towards using stocki Chevy (72 to 87)C10 upper & lower control arms. Lower arms are a couple of inches shorter but wide enough, but I think I can add one hole to shift the arms outward. Mount for upper arm can then be adjusted to match position. The Chevy c10 has very close wheelbase so the drop spindles for a C10 should also work. Not flashy, but less cos and will be plenty sturdy for my Roadmaster.
I like the idea of using later A arms on the stock Buick frame, its such a really strong frame. Let us know how it turns out.
Found a Chevy C10 front with upper & lower arms, spindles brakes, power steering box & tilt steering column. As many of you know, the cross member unbolts from the truck frame. Can buy whole set-up for $250.
The truck frame is about 1" wider than my Buick frame at the front axle.
Plan on keeping my Buick cross member & spring pockets and adding small mount plates outboard of the existing for attaching the truck lower control arms then fabricate an upper mount bracket to hold the upper control arms then c-notch the Buick frame up front of the axle for the steering cross bar.
Will probably end up with drop spindles too. Will use wheels with 39mm (1.54") offset, to reduce front track from 65.8" to 62.72". That is slightly wider than the stock track of 60.5". Wheel offset is already required on '97 t-bird irs I bought for the rear. Inside dims of the front fenders is 74.4" so with 235 wide tires (meas. 7.75" wide) will still have 1.96" of clearance between outside of front tires & inside of fenders.
One last thing to verify is if there is room to cut clearance path for the steering column under the fender.
1) Has anyone else installed a front steer box or a front rack & pinion on a similar Buick?
'37 Buick steering
Friend, As an old streering teck, I always try to keep steering
components of the same make together, and avoid mixing brands
if at all possible.
If I were doing this project, I would explore the possiblility
of using the entire C10 steering assembly in total. As it is too
wide to use as is, I would undertake to narrow the crossmember
about 1'' and likewise the centerlink would be narrowed the
same amount. That way all components would work in
harmony as enginered to do. The C10 steering assembely you
have chosen does have a minor fault in its design. The
problem is that most of them do not produce enough
''toe out on turns.'' Here is an example; If you were to
turn the left wheel to the right 20 degrees, the right wheel
should turn to the right aproximately 22.5 to 23 degrees.
Most C10's wont do that but other wise they will last forever..
best wishes on your project.
Thanks for your advice.
I've decided to go with a variation of the plan laid out by Oldguy829 in the wiki:
This approach keeps the steering rear steer.
I know this plan is a little risky because I will be mixing some components, but I think the original ifs that is on ths car is pretty cool was revolutionary so I'm trying to use the original spring pockets and lower control arm mounts.
I found a local guy who has been building race cars for 30 years and he will be doing the actual suspension work so I should be ok.
I have considered making a transition plate that is bolted, or welded, to the frame to attach a shorterhttp://www.infoocean.info/avatar4.jpg
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