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  #76 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2013, 08:24 PM
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I would think that the paint should stick, as long as the areas are clean and blasted, with no polish residue in the grooves. You might use an adhesion promoter first.

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  #77 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2013, 08:34 PM
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Thanks that is what I was thinking ,but I wamted to get some one else opiniom ,since as I can remember I have never tried to paint sainless,about every thing else but not this.after buffing I cleaned with metal prep ,then tomorrow I will use GwR
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  #78 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 05:32 AM
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faux carbon fiber painting is the "new" lace paint. what comes around once, comes around again
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  #79 (permalink)  
Old 04-24-2013, 08:55 AM
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I haven't tried the carbon fiber yet! :-)

I have used small and large netting with square, hex, and diamond-shaped openings.

For those interested in trying it, the trick is to get it laying flat and tight against the surface, which is already the color you want the details to be. Then spray a light coat of what will be the final backgound color, behind the details. If it doesn't cover enough, let it flash then add another light coat. Do not shoot it "wet" as you could "glue" the fabric to the surface!

Here are a few more tips:

If the surface is curved much, you will need a fabric that will stretch! Imagine trying to wrap something that WON"T stretch, like paper, around a helmet, and you will get the idea. You will find that some fabrics that will not stretch at all... causing folds or humps where the pattern is fuzzy instead of sharply detailed... or the pattern is folded double and confused looking. Other fabrics will be SO stretchy, that you could get it to cover a very curved surface, like motorcycle tanks.

Tape it around the edges to keep it stretched snugly on the the surface... while you look at where the details will fall in the areas to be laced. You don't want to have things cut short so you can't see them well.

Do not buy a fabric made from the "sheer" cloth. The "mesh" of the sheer has holes so small, the paint mist will not go through!

If you have dips in the surface, you can either plan art that does not have the lace pattern in that area... or try sticking it down with bits of tape... paint... then after it's dried, tape it in spots that were painted, then remove the old tape so you can blend some color into those places that had been covered by the original tape. 3-M's green tape is very sticky, and will hold better than some others.

Once it is dried, remove the fabric, and tack it before sealing it with a coat of clear. You may get a few little "fuzzies" or fibers that stick to the surface, so you will need to carefully remove those before clearing.

Now you will have a highly detailed pattern, with minimal time in creating it! :-)
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Old 04-25-2013, 01:39 PM
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Hmmm. Not much response to lace. Any other topics that anyone is curious about?

Here are a few unusual paint effects. I'd be glad to share the methods.
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Old 04-26-2013, 05:45 AM
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Back in the day when I did lace paint I used dress makers spray glue and gave the back side of the lace a light coating where it was going to need to be pulled down into a recess.
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  #82 (permalink)  
Old 04-26-2013, 08:09 AM
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I never heard of that one! Thanks. :-)
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  #83 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:03 PM
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TucsonJay

Don' let this thread die, and yes I'm interested in your methods and really interested in techniques with base coat clear coat problems and solutions with custom paint!! I tried and had problems with photo sensitivity with base coats that were not supposed to be photo sensitive so I quit trying to use the bc cc for custom treatments. It would be great if people would post products they found that don't have the problem!!! I used base coat and layed out flames and the next day pulled the tape to change the design and the base coat photoed the flame lay out and I had to re shoot the fenders with base! I didn't have patience enough to test different products to see what worked well So if guys list what works it helps a lot when using new materials! I have a torn retina and cataracts so I'm not typing much or doing much painting lately till they are repaired I have an appointment for next month to repair my peepers!!!! but I'm really interested in reading about everyone's processes and seeing photo's of everyone's projects! I'm really interested in everyone's experiments with new combinations I mixed women's (Strippers) body glitter with clear and shot it on a black Sportster years ago and the result was really amazing in the sun LOL . In the late 60s a friend worked for the road commission and brought me a bag of ground glass that they used on street signs years ago to make them stand out and reflect the light at night I used it on a car in the scallops I layed out and at night it would blind the other drivers when their lights hit it LOL it wouldn't spray so I dusted the tacky clear by hand throwing it on the scallops and then layed layer after layer of clear on till it was smooth but I forgot to increase the door gaps to compensate for the multi layers of clear and the heavy glass particles it closed the gaps!!! and then it wouldn't sand LOL it would cut right through the sand paper so I scraped it off the door edges and pin striped the scallop borders and door edges that bordered the scallops! It was a Half A S S experiment that turned out ok but I never tried it again LOL But it was cool and no one ever saw the effect before and it drew attention! One time My gun shot water drops when shooting lacquer on a hood and I let it dry so I could sand and recoat the hood but the imprint of the water drops was so cool I tried to duplicate it but no mater how hard I tried I couldn't duplicate the pattern One time I shot a cheep gold base for flames and when I coated it with candy it cracked and left the bright gold visible in the cracks so I left it and cleared it and it looked good And years later you could buy it over the counter called "Crackle" LOL Like years ago to get a wrinkle Finnish you shot lacquer over enamel to get the wrinkle effect now you can buy it ready to spray called "WRINKLE PAINT" LOL Who would have guessed LOL

Any one make mistakes or a misfortune that turned out to be a good looking custom result and incorporate it into your paint tricks?

My eyes are really giving me trouble so I'm through on here for a while LOL

Be looking forward to reading more on this thread Jay !!!!!!

Jester
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  #84 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:27 PM
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Great info, Jester I am interested in spraying Ghost flames on my truck,i have never attempted this . the truck is Posche Guards red I want the flames Red also not a contrasting color ,but as much work and money I have tied up in this build I am afraid to try it,my son does custom paintind ,Marblrizind ,water drops flakes webs etc so I could get him to do it but I kinda wanted to do this myself ,have any tips for the Ghost flames would I need to go darker red for the flames ,I want to only see them from certain angles,?
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  #85 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:34 PM
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Jester, Here is what I have used for years without that doesn't have a photo-sensitivity problem. I use three brands of base coat paints (and intermix them) with no troubles of any sort. R-M for production and basic colors... and also HOK and Xotic Colours for custom colors.

The only thing I could think of besides photo-sensitivity, that would leave a "shadow" from the tape... would be a metallic base that was softened by solvent penetration or the base not being completely dried before masking. If I am going over a metallic with a layout... (I use 1/8th inch 3-m green paper tape)... I let the metallic base, which always has a protective coat of mid-coat clear, dry overnight so it is flat and stable.

Here is another tip I have used for about 10 years with good success:

Years ago I read one painter's theory, that "basecoat ALWAYS sticks to basecoat"... so when graphics take a long time, I always come back with a coat of HOK Sg100... or Xotic Colours mid-coat clear before the final clear.

I tested that theory recently when I was forced to pull off of a job for about a year!!! When I did the mid-coat and final clear, I DID NOT get adhesion with the color work that I had always been able to depend on!

I learned the lesson that there IS a length of time that will dry the base coat paints TOO much for chemical adhesion!!!

In the future I will always topcoat it if I can't finish very soon... then come back and sand it before I proceed, for a mechanical adhesion.
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  #86 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 496CHEVY3100 View Post
Great info, Jester I am interested in spraying Ghost flames on my truck,i have never attempted this . the truck is Posche Guards red I want the flames Red also not a contrasting color ,but as much work and money I have tied up in this build I am afraid to try it,my son does custom paintind ,Marblrizind ,water drops flakes webs etc so I could get him to do it but I kinda wanted to do this myself ,have any tips for the Ghost flames would I need to go darker red for the flames ,I want to only see them from certain angles,?
I'm not Jester... but here is my input on ghost flames:

Use a darker red candy... or simply a darker solid red... for flames that are always visible, but not visually powerful.

Use a red pearl sprayed very lightly... if you want flames that appear only when the light angle is right. A word of warning here. The lower body does not get nearly as much light, so flames down there almost never show up, unless you sit down on the groud to look at them! {:-)

If you want them even more subtle... use a murano or "glint" pearl, which is more invisible when the light is not illuminating it. One word of warning about these more subtle pearls. I flamed a '40 Ford pickup this way... and because the body did not have large flat areas... the flames showed up in bits and pieces, which kind of ruins the effect!
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  #87 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 12:48 PM
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One last comment on "accidental" effects.

I can't remember that happening... but I am always looking for something new.

Once I had a roll of braided cord, like fish line, that I noticed would not straighten out when I unrolled it. I was curious, so I dipped it in paint, and flopped it on a surface. The lines looked kind of like confetti streamers!!! I ended up masking an area on the top of a bike tank... then taped masking paper curled away on each side, so it would guide the cord to where I wanted it to land. I got some good comments about the effect, but did not like the difficulty in controlling the results... so I never used it again.

I will probably think of some more experiments I've done. Gotta go sand now! :-)~
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  #88 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:19 PM
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Jay it was 4TH Dimension base coat "Orange crush pearl" special mix at the jobber I use for my paint supplied by the customer on the 55 chevy wagon in my journal and I used a mid coat , waited 24 hrs & used 3M 1/8 green layout tape, and wanted to narrow the flames a little after the tape was on for another day when I pulled the 1/8 tape to change it it left a photo of the tape that was a shade darker then the rest of the fender like you stated (a shadow) after re shooting and taping I didn't leave the tape on as long and shot the flames as soon as I was done taping and had no problem.

On my test paper I put on my booth wall that I coat the same as the car ( I shoot it as I'm painting the car so I can see and touch it ). After I was done I took the test paper off the wall let it dry 24 hrs and taped a piece of paper on it the next day and left it overnight and when I removed it it left a perfect shadow of the piece of paper I taped on it!

It was no big deal I should have done a test piece first with a sample of the product since I never used it before.

I use Ultra 7000 and can leave tape on for days as I'm laying out complex patterns with no problems or PPG products which I used almost exclusively for years till I retired. But every once and a while we all break down against our better judgment and use something new or what a customer supplies and we depend on a teck sheet being correct LOL

Jester

Jay: The answer you gave to 496CHEVY3100 on ghost flames above is dead on!!!! no one could say it any better!!! I like to use pearls like you stated, or an extra coat or to of transparent candy concentrate on the flame or visa versa to make the flame a little darker or lighter for a ghost effect or two different shades of tinted primer or sealer or base. Sometimes I use gold flake base for the body and silver flake base for the flames or vise versa and then shoot with transparent candy color to the shade I want it and In the sun the effect is outstanding! And the warning about body shape and pearls not showing up in areas is dead on!!!!!!!!

I think powdered pearls in the clear are the easiest and prettiest method and if their too subdued and don't float your boat just tape and shoot another coat of pearls on the flames clear em peal the tape see if you like em now and then scuff and clear your project wet sand polish and buff and listen for the ooohs as people walk by your car in the sun!! If you never shot ghosts before 496CHEVY3100 shoot test panels to see what you like and improve your skills! I use old glass windows or storms and shoot them with epoxy sealer as test panels. LOL

When shooting white or real light colors the pearl doesn't show as well and you really have to load it up to get the same effect as you do on darker colors.

Jester
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  #89 (permalink)  
Old 06-10-2013, 02:44 PM
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"...every once and a while we all break down against our better judgment and use something new or what a customer supplies and we depend on a teck sheet being correct LOL"

Well said... and total agreement!

The last job that blew up on me... (when I used paint the customer had already bought)... cured me of ever using anything but the paint I can be sure will always turn out right! That wasn't the first time I was in that situation... but it is the last time it will ever happen! }:-(

In the future, if they insist on paint I am not familiar with, I will pass on the job with no regrets! After all... I guarantee my work for as long as they own it, so I simply cannot gamble with that kind of obligation! I just won't risk it any more.
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  #90 (permalink)  
Old 06-28-2013, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by NEW INTERIORS View Post
Sorry guys I'm just getting started with this thread but check out the rice paper trick with the 100.00 bills I think I can do this. I might give it a try under my hood.watching these vids makes me feel like a caveman and I've been painting cars over 35 yrs ... simply amazing.you guys are awsome for even trying this stuff...but you pro's ....I'm in awe,there are no words
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