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-   -   Cutting and buffing guidance. Parts / compound / polish selection. (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/cutting-buffing-guidance-parts-compound-polish-selection-187091.html)

V8 Super Beetle 11-04-2010 01:54 PM

Cutting and buffing guidance. Parts / compound / polish selection.
 
I need a little guidance on cutting and buffing. My paint laid down real slick, but unfortunately it has some dust, a dog hair and a bug in some of the paint.

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/fina...-fenders-1.jpg

http://www.mikeydesigns.com/bug/fina...-fenders-2.jpg

I put down 2 coats of clear, wet sanded flat with 600 grit, and then laid a flow coat of clear. I need to know if the following plan sounds good.

Sand out hair, dust and bug with 1200. Tape edge to prevent cut through. Sand with 1500. Remove tape. Sand with 2000 lightly (only a couple passes) hitting the edges. Compound with wool pad and polish with foam pad.

Here's the buffer I'm looking at which comes with a wool / compounding bonnet and foam / polishing bonnet.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAK-9227CX3/


Buffing compound.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEG-M-8532/


Polishing compound.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MEG-M-8232/


Any comments or advice would be much appreciated. I've never buffed before.

001mustang 11-04-2010 02:37 PM

Be very careful if use 600 as it cuts fast.

You can work a few spots out w/o wet sanding whole panel.

Before buffing repairs wet sand w/ 1600 of finer.

Be very very careful around edges to avoid removing all CC.

Buffer will burn CC if not careful.

V8 Super Beetle 11-04-2010 02:41 PM

I probably should've been a little clearer. Before my final coat of clear I sanded with 600 grit and then sprayed a wet coat of clear. A flow coat if you will. It laid nice and flat. Now I'm just looking for advice on cutting and buffing to remove dust. :) Paper grit to use, equipment, compounds, and polishes.

Thanks for the advice!

001mustang 11-04-2010 03:42 PM

should have a selection of grits from 600 to 1600. The finer grits are safer but slow.

variable speed buffer w/ foam pad and wool pad.

i like 3m perfect-it 3000 rubbing compound followed by 3m perfect-it 3000 ultrafine machine polish.

one thing i do is surround a larger imperfection w/ low tack tape. use a short section of paint stick for block. easier to control wet sanding small area w/ paint stick block riding on tape.

some small imperfections will buff out just like the salesman said.

Rag top bird 11-04-2010 06:54 PM

this is how I do all of our cars

1 I wet sand with 1000 to get the panel flat

2 I step it up to 1500 then 2000 and finish with 3000

3 I buff with 3M 5973 compound on a wool pad

4 I go back and cut with a foam pad and 3M 5973

then I finish with 3M 5996 glaze on a foam pad and if it has had time to cure then I wax the car with Meguiars gold class wax

mitmaks 11-04-2010 06:57 PM

I bought Meguiar's Solo system. Comes with all the cutting/polishing pads you need, backing pad and universal compound. You can pick up variable speed electric polisher at HF.

001mustang 11-04-2010 09:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rag top bird
this is how I do all of our cars

1 I wet sand with 1000 to get the panel flat

2 I step it up to 1500 then 2000 and finish with 3000

3 I buff with 3M 5973 compound on a wool pad

4 I go back and cut with a foam pad and 3M 5973

then I finish with 3M 5996 glaze on a foam pad and if it has had time to cure then I wax the car with Meguiars gold class wax

I'm impressed. I get bored w/ 2000 grit.

3000 grit, wow.

Rag top bird 11-04-2010 10:10 PM

[QUOTE=001mustang]I'm impressed. I get bored w/ 2000 grit.

3000 grit, wow.[/QUO

yeah I rember when we finished 1200 a long time ago

shine 11-05-2010 07:38 AM

there is a reason they make all the set up grits. skipping one just makes more work . i can assure you that over buffing trying to get rid of 1500 scratches will kill the clear. it will shine but just not be as clear and sharp .

cyclopsblown34 11-05-2010 08:39 AM

Why you gonna remove your bug from the paint?

cyclopsblown34 11-05-2010 08:41 AM

Use the least coarse abrasive required for the offending spot and work progressively finer. Don't skip a step/grit either.

V8 Super Beetle 11-05-2010 08:45 AM

Thanks for all the advice guys. I've been doing some reading and watching some videos. I'm just a little confused. I'm confused about the grits people are using, the compounds and polishes.

I see some people use 1,200 to 1,500, then buff with a heavy cutting compound, and then polish.

I've got advice to use 1,000 to level, then work my way on up through 1,500, 2K, and 3K. If I were to work through the finer grits is it still necessary to use such a heavy cutting compound as say 3M 5973 or Meguiar's Diamond Cut 85? Wouldn't I just polish it? Or does the cutting compound remove the sand paper marks even left behind from 3K paper?

I think I'm getting a handle on this, but just want to clear up a few things.

V8 Super Beetle 11-05-2010 08:49 AM

Here's what I'm talking about.

In this demo the guy sanded with 1,200K, then used a heavy cutting compound, and then polished.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6PyXbrNbsE&NR=1


Here, this guy used 1500, compounded, and then polished. Although, I don't care for how his finish came out. The gloss I have now is shinier, and flatter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCphE...eature=related


And last, but not least, here they used 1K grit and then just used a cutting compound with a wool and then foam bonnet. Seems like they should've went further and used polish... :confused:

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tec.../photo_23.html

V8 Super Beetle 11-05-2010 08:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cyclopsblown34
Why you gonna remove your bug from the paint?

Cause I would NOT like to have a bug in my cars paint job. :D

001mustang 11-05-2010 11:32 AM

I've used 2200 before and could not tell difference compared to 1600 after 3m 5973 compound then polish. I just compared w/ my untrained naked eye.

No down side to working up to 3000 other than time and money.


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