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Old 01-25-2012, 07:55 AM
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cutting coil springs

When cutting a coil spring I use a cutoff wheel, after a coil is cutoff do you guys install the spring back in the car with the cutoff end of the spring left as cut or do you go around 180 degrees from the cut and heat and bend the spring end down so it sits in the spring cup in the lower a frame better.
Gene

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Old 01-25-2012, 08:31 AM
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last set of springs we cut, (my kids ranger p-up )

I did not lay the last coil 1/2, back over like the spring was orig.

but I still think we should have

we started with 1 full coil, and that wasnt low enough so we took off another 1/2 of a coil

I think we should have stopped at 1 coil, and just layed the second 1/2 over flat, so it looked like it was orig.

it probably would have been about the same result in height and fit in the bucket better
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Old 01-25-2012, 09:08 AM
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In Herb Adams book Chassis Engineering he shows cutting then heating and bending. if that helps.

MARK
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Old 01-25-2012, 06:00 PM
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Last set I cut, I used a die grinder to grind the top flat. It fit better than just a cut, and was less likely to make the spring brittle like high heat would have. 2 coils dropped my 82 C-10 about 4 1/2 inches (pre-air bags).
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Old 01-26-2012, 09:33 AM
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Iv'e always heated the end of the spring and layed it down more like it was before I cut it. I was just wondering if others have done it also. Just dosen't seem right to leave the cut end sticking out and would'nt fit the spring pocket right.
Thanks
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:03 PM
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I'm a big proponent of cutting coils. I've done '80s Mustangs, '80s Camaros, '80s S-10s, and more. I never try to fold the last 1/2 coil, and I've never had any problem.
Don't keep cutting until the ride height looks right, because the springs will settle as you drive. Typically 1-2 weeks of daily driving before you see the final stance.
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Old 01-26-2012, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whyholdback
I never try to fold the last 1/2 coil, and I've never had any problem.
Don't keep cutting until the ride height looks right, because the springs will settle as you drive. Typically 1-2 weeks of daily driving before you see the final stance.
if you are cutting old springs, the settling that you are seeing in 1-2 weeks
is the last coil starting to bend over flat
because they shouldnt change much, if they were already in the car, before you cut them

Last edited by matts37chev; 01-26-2012 at 02:05 PM. Reason: spelling correction
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:01 PM
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It also depends on the type of spring perches you are using. Some cars use a spring with one square end and one tangential end. A Mustang 2 front end is like this. The square end sits in a flat bucket, the bucket for the tangential end has a "ramp" the spring sits on so the load is spread around the full circumference of the spring without it having to be bent flat.

In short, if both spring perches or buckets are flat, you should flatten the end you cut. If one of the perches has the ramp for a tangential end, cut this end and leave it as is. You want the load spread around the full circumference of the spring.

As Matts37chev said, leave them a little long. The springs on my '34 settled about 1/2 inch.

Last edited by Jano; 01-26-2012 at 02:06 PM.
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jano
It also depends on the type of spring perches you are using. Some cars use a spring with one square end and one tangential end. A Mustang 2 front end is like this. The square end sits in a flat bucket, the bucket for the tangential end has a "ramp" the spring sits on so the load is spread around the full circumference of the spring without it having to be bent flat.

In short, if both spring perches or buckets are flat, you should flatten the end you cut. If one of the perches has the ramp for a tangential end, cut this end and leave it as is. You want the load spread around the full cicumference of the spring.
yes, I believe the original question was pointed towards
do you make look like it was originally?
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:41 PM
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The lower control arms always have ramps for the coils. Even the '67 Camaros were this way. Even C-10 pickups were this way, then the C1500s that followed. You're not supposed to fold the last 1/2 coil.
If these applications are tangential, then everything I've ever cut is tangential. No app worth driving has non-tangential.
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Old 01-26-2012, 02:54 PM
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It's a 69 Chevelle with a flat bucket on top and a ramp bucket in the lower A arm. With new springs. I needed to raise the front about 2 inches , I got 3 inches for the 60's look now I need to take a half a coil off to come down an inch.
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:54 PM
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cutting coils is always a bad idea . destroys the ride .
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Old 01-26-2012, 03:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
cutting coils is always a bad idea . destroys the ride .
X2 this is true even though i am guilty of it also and i alway's use a cut off wheel. JMO



Cole
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Old 01-26-2012, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cmc-10
Last set I cut, I used a die grinder to grind the top flat. It fit better than just a cut, and was less likely to make the spring brittle like high heat would have. 2 coils dropped my 82 C-10 about 4 1/2 inches (pre-air bags).
looking to do front end of my 86 c10 4 inches..how was the camber on front wheels looking.was told i could only go about 1 inch.Trying to get it low as possible without putting in drop spindles which are around the $600 mark in new zealand..cheers
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Old 01-31-2012, 07:17 PM
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I cut the coils on my 82 C-10 back before I put in the airbags. I believe it was 2 full coils. The camber was pretty bad. I actually added a few alignment shims to bring out the camber until I got to the alignment shop. 3 inch drop spindles will salvage the ride and make you much happier. It is worth the extra money. Spindles also allow for the factory ride height shocks, a stock ride, and the same stiffness of coils, etc. Cutting the amount of coils off to drop it 4 inches will cause the front end to "float", causing you to need stiffer shocks with shorter travel and to cut down the bump stops or replace them. I actually built and installed my own custom ones. You will actually come out cheaper in the long run with spindles or drop a-arms. LMC carries a pretty good selection. To get 4 inches, you may need to cut some coil, but only half of one or so.

Also, there is a clip that holds the spring in position in the spring pocket that is a good idea to keep if going that low.

Last edited by cmc-10; 01-31-2012 at 07:24 PM. Reason: one more thing
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