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Old 04-11-2002, 09:14 PM
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Post cutting coils question

I want to know if it would cuse any damage to my car if i lowered my car by cutting the coils. I would only have it on there from 2 to 5 months then my origanl springs will be back on. im buying seprate springs to cut. i also had one other question. I have a 85 grand marquis would other silmair cars springs work also, like an 85 crown victoria or 85 licion. Will any other years in grand marquis work also.

I would be happy to hear any suggestions or advice.

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Old 04-11-2002, 10:23 PM
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you don't want to cut your springs, if you cut your springs you will ruin them. yes it will lower your car but it will also make it exstremely uncomfortable and not fun to drive. Exsposing springs to heat will weaken them and cutting them will make your car very bouncy and uncomfortable and difficult to drive and handle, and could cause adverse effects on the rest of your suspention, my advice don't do it.
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Old 04-11-2002, 11:34 PM
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i think we all know a guy whos cut his springs and then lived to regret it. if you are only going to have them on for five months than whats the point of even bothering? if you're like me then bothering is half the fun. you'll bottom out over everything, including the spines on a bridge that allow for expansion!!!! by cutting the springs you weaken them and also the stock spring rate remains leaving a spring that wants to absorb 10 inchs but in now only capable of absorbing 7 or 8. it can get messy. most cars of the same letter (G-body, A-body, F-body,etc) have common parts that are more or less universal. double check to make sure though. hope i've helped.
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Old 04-12-2002, 06:22 AM
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I guess i will be the odd man out here.. First off There is abosulutly nothing wrong with cutting coil springs. But you need to know the basics about doing it. First... you never cut a coil with a torch NEVER!! When you cut coils you do it with a die cutter or cut off wheel,using very little heat. Next is suspension Geomtry..if you know nothing about it you probable should not be cutting springs. The lower a-frame on most car should be NO lower than level to the ground.Thats center of ball joint to the inner pivot of the lower a-frame should be level or the ball joint center a liitle closer to the ground than the inner pivot.Also the tie rods should be in the same plane or its bumpsteer city(not a very fun thing) Next cutting springs DOES change spring rate. If you cut a spring it will raise the spring rate(soft springs get stiffer as they get shorter) So if you have a big diameter wire on your coil and you cut it..its going to be even stiffer.(sometimes we buy a soft rate spring if we think we will be cutting a lot) We have to cut coils all the time to set ride height on rods ..its a common practice and there is nothing wrong with it..But you do need to know why you are cutting them..It affects camber ,castor,bumpsteer,Toe,ride and some times shock lengths. So if your doing it to get the cool look ..FORGET it. As with anything you touch on the frontend it has to be aligned after you get done with any mods.Hell if you install A/C on you car you should have it realigned(diff nose weight,changes alignment) DONT EVER CUT 2 COILS OFF with the first try. 1/2 to 1/4 at a time is BIG.Its very helpful if you get to be friends with a circle track racer with a spring rater to help you,they will know springs in and out(probabaly have 50 or so hangin around) Hope this clears up some of the myths about cutting coils.
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Old 04-12-2002, 07:20 AM
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Yes the LTD and Crown Vic parts will fit your Merc. I had an 81 LTD and used lots of merc parts on it and everything was a bolt up deal.

The car would look cool slamed. If you contact Eaton Detroit Spring they should be able to size lower springs to get you down without coil cuting. If you still need to get the car lower you can do it by cuting the coil. Just remove 1/4 coil at a time, use a cut off wheel, and lower the car no more than 1" using the coil cuting method.
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Old 04-12-2002, 07:54 AM
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Hey Phat Can you explain the "bumpsteer thing to me? Seriously, I have heard the term bandied about, but never understood exactly what it is.
Thanx <img src="confused.gif" border="0">
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Old 04-12-2002, 10:10 AM
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Eaton spring...forget it. He knows how to sell springs but just recently "found" the after market. His stuff is great but he has supplied the OEM for years and is lossing that bussiness rapidly so..he had to do something..Most times if a customer has bought his "lowering" spring the car/truck sits higher than when you started.(i know i have had to deal with his come backs several times when customer dont listen and try to cheap out) If you need a OEM replacement spring he is fine..lowering he is just another parts store spring seller.(plus he is big bucks,your better at your local spring shop) Bump steer.....boy thats a big one for here.. look at it this way... as the suspension goes down (or up) the tie rod needs to go in the same arc as the a-frames .If they do not the the tire will toe in and pin the nose (trying to spin the car out)or in the other case the tire will toe out and make the car push(turn the wheel and it dont turn) The only way to check for it is to remove the springs and run the suspension through 3 inches of up travel from static and 1-2 inches down from static to see what the wheel is doing.All cars have some degree of bumpsteer.Its pretty hard to even get rid of all of it on a race car.We actually use it as a tuning tool on race cars. You just need to minmize it on your rod. Its a whole lot more involed ...i dont splain stuff to good on the puter. Again get real friendly with a circle track guy and they can show you.Most good guys check it a lot. BUMPSTEER IS NOT SHIMMYING sevral times i have had customer come to me wanting there bump steer fixed. I asked how they even know it is wrong??They tell me cause it shakes real bad after hitting a bump.LOL Not bump steer.Thats tires or caster(usally lack of it). Sorry this got so long.
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Old 04-12-2002, 06:01 PM
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Phats the man, nothing to add from me.
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Old 04-23-2002, 10:46 PM
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first off, the Crown Vic is an option pkg and trim level on the LTD. also the LTD and the Grand Marquis are essentially the same car (one says Ford/ the other Mercury) I'm like Phat, dont waste you time and effort till you fully investigate your suspension geometry. I would find a local track and talk to some teams about this issue. I personally wouldnt even think of such a project on a temporary basis. shock mountings would be my biggest concern. they are ment to work within certain ranges. and when you start changin those parameters you will ruin them. shocks also affect overall sring rate and ride on the car. bumpsteer simplified-when you hit a bump in the road the car may or maynot turn itself depending on the bumpsteer factor
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Old 04-24-2002, 05:55 PM
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Just joined, read a lot of questions and answers, finally found Phatt's comment about cutting coils and bumpsteer. Believe we have an old time hotrodder here, I'll be asking him some questions in the future. Simple answer to bumpsteer without explaining why, ever have a car want to change lanes by itself when you hit a bump?? Thats bumpsteer.
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Old 04-24-2002, 06:21 PM
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Here's a link for you,
<a href="http://www.bakerprecision.com/longacr17a.htm" target="_blank">http://www.bakerprecision.com/longacr17a.htm</a>
A good description of bumpsteer.

Phat, I have ordered springs from Eaton spring for a few vehicles and have had nothing but good luck so far, mind you these were all stock applications. The prices were sure good and delivery in Canada was within a week of ordering. I have the compound wound springs on my 91 Jetta now and they were perfect height etc. Perhaps just his custom winding needs a little work. I think I paid $180 delivered for a complete set of compound springs for the Jetta, VW wanted $200 for one spring!!
<a href="http://www.eatonsprings.com/" target="_blank">http://www.eatonsprings.com/</a>
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Old 04-25-2002, 04:02 PM
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I agree 4 jaw on his stock springs(heck he may make them for VW) but i think i paid 85 bucks from eibach for GTI springs so...he is no deal..he does have good stuff..no arguement here.He just talks a fast game on the rod end and i dont think he fully understands it yet.(just had his first built for him about a year or 2 ago)Give him time and he will be there.That and the fact that most guys dont have scales to tell him what the weight % is on there rod so...how the heck does he know ..he is guessing.Your local spring shop i find to be your best bet.they can see how far back the engine is.What trans or if the batt is in the trunk..if you have A/C or alumin radiator.stangII or clip. glass nose or steel tilt or standard. steel wheels or alumin.All this stuff and more make a big diff in spring rates.It would be impossable for the man to help you ..other than and educatated guess.Same as me..i could not do it with out using my scales.I even have to go through 2 -3 sets of springs to get them were i want. Not just and old rodder but and ex circle track racer that all this crap had to be checked and played with very week.Maybe even cheated with alittle. LOL
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Old 04-25-2002, 04:06 PM
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Hey 4 Jaw good link to longacre. I use a lot of there equipment in the shop.That should be in the tech tips section.!! Good find buddy.
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Old 04-25-2002, 04:16 PM
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Shocks dont really change spring rate...but they control it...its sorta like if you run your car with a 600 lb spring with no shock it will bounce.If you tied a bungie cord on it it would bounce less..if you tightened up the bungie cord it would slow the bounce down even more..sometime that is good sometimes not so good ..its called dampening.So if you went to a stiffer shock the transition would be slowed down.Now if you wanted your drag car to hook good on start you would put and easy up shock in the front so all the tranfer would be on the rear wheels.Now thats get complicated also as you cant move weight in a car with springs and shocks ..you phisically have to move it(torches and welders).But now i am getting in to deep.Something i allways did with my oval track car LOL When you go in deep you want tie down shocks.Well i will stop or this will be a book .Sorry guys i live for this stuff.Just cant get it on paper to good.
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Old 05-06-2002, 08:56 AM
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back to the springs. i agree with phat to some extent on the bumpsteer and suspension geometry issue. re-alignment will probably be neccesary. i have used cut-coils on customer's cars numerous times(by request) and never ran into a problem that was serious enough to warrant removal. it's pretty much common sense fixes after you change ride height and spring rate. if the prospect of inadequate spring compression rate bothers you, take it to a spring shop and have it re-tempered to your specifications. the car will ride a little rougher but it makes up for this in security that your car won't bottom out on a bump and bend the subframe. i am not familiar with your particular car but i have done TONS of monte carlos. good luck!
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