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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2012, 09:05 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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That is actually what ended up happening to the 56 Chevy I did. Not in three pieces but two. After the glass shop broke three windshields for me I took it somewhere else and that is where I learned about needing to modify the roof and we ended up splitting the windshield in two.

Brian

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Old 04-18-2012, 09:06 PM
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That's because they were being subjected to a BUNCH of heat.

Brian
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Old 04-19-2012, 08:37 AM
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The top on my 55 is cut 3". Roof was left intact and the A pillar was kicked back. It took 3 windshields for the glass guy to get it but it does fit even though the pic shows it without the glass installed....and I LOVE the way it looks. In retrospect, it may have been easier to have a windshield cut and tune the top, but you know what they say about hindsight. I did have the windshield cut and trial fit BEFORE doing any body/paing work....just in case.
That was some good advice from my paint/body guy and the worry was pretty intense for a couple of months over the whole "top" thing until the windshield was installed for the final time yesterday.
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Old 04-19-2012, 09:12 AM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedbump
The top on my 55 is cut 3". Roof was left intact and the A pillar was kicked back. It took 3 windshields for the glass guy to get it but it does fit even though the pic shows it without the glass installed....and I LOVE the way it looks. In retrospect, it may have been easier to have a windshield cut and tune the top, but you know what they say about hindsight. I did have the windshield cut and trial fit BEFORE doing any body/paing work....just in case.
That was some good advice from my paint/body guy and the worry was pretty intense for a couple of months over the whole "top" thing until the windshield was installed for the final time yesterday.
I'm so glad you showed up and posted this, I was making it seem impossible and I hope he slept last night.

The thing I learned on the project is after working with metal and knowing you can just make it work, bend it, lengthen it, what ever. But that glass, there is no modifying it!

Brian
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Old 04-19-2012, 06:10 PM
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Brian, thanks for all of your insight on this . Your right I didn't sleep very well.lol . I believe I my have this figured out. At least I'm going for it. After talking to a local glass guru who would not touch it I made a pattern from some thin non corrugated cardboard. Laying it on the outside of my windshield I cut it to the same shape. Then took off 2" from the top. Moved the piece I cut from the top down to get the correct radius for the top. After splitting the cut off I laid it on the inside after measuring from the bottom up I marked the inside. Now it is all taped up and ready to sand blast.
Speedbump, that is a nice looking ride. looks like it won't be long till you'll be cruising . I hope this works or its back to cutting some metal. But I will not give up.
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:05 PM
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Glad to hear you will get a good nights sleep tonight, sorry. I do know one thing for sure, get ready to buy a few windshields. Glass is not very forgiving and I have tried to cut it a number of different ways only to break it. I know people do it, I know it's possible, I have just not been able to pull it off.

I tried the sandblasting trick on tempered glass, no luck. But on safety plate I am thinking if you take your time you may just pull it off. But I would do some testing first on an old glass.

I am dying to see how you do.

Brian
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Old 04-19-2012, 07:16 PM
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Thanks for the encouraging words Brian. I'm starting on a junkyard piece to practice on. But if it works the first time I may just install it, kind of fits the theme I'm going for anyway.

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Old 04-19-2012, 07:28 PM
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Thanks for the encouraging words Brian. I'm starting on a junkyard piece to practice on. But if it works the first time I may just install it, kind of fits the theme I'm going for anyway.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:26 AM
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glass fitting

A long time ago when I worked at Ford, they still used rubber mounted glass. When building engineering protypes the crew used 4-6 inches pieces of windshield rubber about 2 ft apart around the glass to test fit prototype glass. You could try that and easily check clearances , hammer and dolly flanges etc.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
A long time ago when I worked at Ford, they still used rubber mounted glass. When building engineering protypes the crew used 4-6 inches pieces of windshield rubber about 2 ft apart around the glass to test fit prototype glass. You could try that and easily check clearances , hammer and dolly flanges etc.
Very interesting idea, simple as can be but never thought of that.

Brian
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Old 04-20-2012, 02:55 PM
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that is a very good idea Tim, I will def use that. Brian your help has eased my mind. Will be starting the cut (sandblast) on sunday. i'm trying to get photos off my phone to computer so i can post my progress.
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Old 04-20-2012, 03:03 PM
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Brian Martin,Freelance adviser
 
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Remember those sand particles are little hammers chipping away, don't over do it or you will be cracking it. I got quite a way thru some tempered glass once with the sand blaster before it exploded. I am thinking if the time is taken you will succeed.

Brian
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:28 PM
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check heat buildup

Be sure to keep checking the glass for heat build up as you work, I bought a wet blaster from northern tool a couple years ago to use with my 3500 psi pressure washer, NO Dust but it makes a mess, and blasts a wide path.
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Old 04-20-2012, 08:36 PM
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I have to say, that is largely a myth from what I understand and experienced. Sand blasting doesn't create heat. Think about it, you are blowing air a LOT of air with that sand, how can it create heat?

I had someone explain this to me a number of years ago on a forum and it frankly blew me away as you may be from me telling you right now. I went out and grabbed a piece of metal and sand blasted it, sure enough the metal was actually COOLER where I sand blasted it!

It warps metal not from heat but from the little "hammers" (sand particles) hammering the top layer of the metal thinner, if the top layer is thinner, then the bottom layer under it, it warps just as you would expect.

Whether it is heat or not is beside the point, you have to back off and be careful so you don't do damage with those "little hammers".

Brian
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Old 04-21-2012, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Let me correct or clarify something I said. The hole the glass sits in doesn't only change shape, the glass does. When the glass is cut the curvature of the edge is going to be different than where the edge was before being cut.

Which is why the glass needs to be cut and then you modify the roof to fit it.

Brian
Yep!!

When I gotta chop a top with a curved glass, I get th' glass first, then fit th' top to it. much easier that way.

Now flat glass, is easy.
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