cylinder head bolt recommendation - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Engine
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2008, 09:37 AM
GMR GMR is offline
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: florida
Posts: 290
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
cylinder head bolt recommendation

Strictly street mild performance sbc 350 with cast iron RHS vortec heads and Crane H278 cam. What head bolts would you recommend?

Do I need washers since the heads are cast iron?

Manley and ARP are longer than stock for use with washers - if I don't need washers will they be too long?

Pioneer - come without washers, good price but not sure of the quality.

Any others?

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:41 AM
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Seattle, Wa
Posts: 6,705
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 3
Thanked 406 Times in 351 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMR
Strictly street mild performance sbc 350 with cast iron RHS vortec heads and Crane H278 cam. What head bolts would you recommend?

Do I need washers since the heads are cast iron?

Manley and ARP are longer than stock for use with washers - if I don't need washers will they be too long?

Pioneer - come without washers, good price but not sure of the quality.

Any others?
You don't need washers with cast iron, but they don't hurt anything if they're there. Most bolts enter the cooling jackets so length, within reason, isn't a problem.

In this age of parts, especially fasteners, from India and China it pays to be careful of your source. I don't know anything about Pioneer; but certainly Manley and ARP can stand on their reputation.

My installation technique for Chevy's and others where the bolt holes penetrate the cooling jacket is after chasing the threads to be sure they are clean. I wipe a thin layer of Teflon plumbers pipe dope down the female thread and apply a thin layer to the bolt's threads. The intention here is to push sealant ahead of the bolt so that the threads are sealed against coolant entry rather than just penetration. Any threads that become exposed will corrode, I find this technique insures the threads are dry. I have found that just applying "dope" to the bolt tends to wipe the sealant up the shank which is sufficient to stop leaks at the bolt head but often leaves the lower threads wet.

GM sells Teflon coated head bolts. I find the coating iffy mostly from the stand point that the bolts are never protected from manufacturing to customer delivery, as a result, the Teflon becomes damaged from the rubbing contact with other bolts. So I use the same sealant technique from above ppg when using these.

Plumbers Teflon paste sealant has close to the same lubricity as engine oil so no adjustment needs to be made for torque settings.

Intake bolts often also penetrate the cooling jacket so they should be installed with sealant also.

You'll find other people use differing materials which are fine also. The only stuff I shy away from is silicon RTV rubber. This material cures which is fine, except any that finds it's way into the cooling or lubrication system remains as a solid product free to circulate with the liquid till lodging someplace. This gives me nightmares, thinking of all the critical places a chunk of this stuff can get stuck into.

Bogie
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2008, 10:48 AM
T-bucket23's Avatar
Hotrodders.com Moderator
 
Last wiki edit: Engine basic condition - how to check Last photo:
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Age: 57
Posts: 5,108
Wiki Edits: 26

Thanks: 7
Thanked 105 Times in 90 Posts
GMPP has decent head bolts and they are reasonably priced
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2008, 11:01 AM
Double_v23's Avatar
Horsepower Enthusiast
 

Last journal entry: Finished BMOD001FH
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Mooresville, NC
Posts: 1,495
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 4 Times in 4 Posts
I have purchased several sets of head bolts from competition products at about 19.99 a set. These come with out washers but are longer for use with washers. If you purchase these bolts you must use the washers, so even though they don't come with washers you have to order them at 8.00 a set.

I like the bolts and they work well, but for some reason the way that the bolt seats against the head without a washer gives you a high torque reading so while I thought they were ok, the gasket was barely even compressed. And it leaked.

They do come with teflon on the threads, and the bolts that are exposed are rust proofed. But since you put all that money into those heads already another 70 bucks for bolts is probably worth the investment.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 05-22-2008, 07:06 PM
GMR GMR is offline
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: florida
Posts: 290
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Thanks fellas, appreciate very much the tips and advice.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Engine posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
the history of chevy v8's savman1 Hotrodders' Lounge 43 03-02-2012 06:57 PM
VW Jetta Cylinder Head Chevy21 Engine 2 02-13-2008 09:04 AM
Building A 302 Chevy Scorpio Shaping Flow Hotrodding Basics 6 01-16-2007 05:55 AM
Welding Aluminum Cylinder Head Chevy21 Engine 13 05-08-2005 09:17 PM
Head recommendation - low HP w/LT1 intake Tim240Z Engine 0 07-08-2004 12:56 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 08:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.