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Old 09-17-2008, 11:07 PM
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I did some bowl blending on a pair of 339's & drilled the steam holes for my 413 build. I'm sticking with the 1.72 intakes & going with +.008 oversize stem valves. Brass thinwall guides have been installed by previous valve job.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 09-18-2008, 08:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbvcw71
I did some bowl blending on a pair of 339's & drilled the steam holes for my 413 build. I'm sticking with the 1.72 intakes & going with +.008 oversize stem valves. Brass thinwall guides have been installed by previous valve job.
1.72 intakes ???
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Old 09-18-2008, 10:35 AM
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1.72" intake valves
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Old 09-22-2008, 05:51 AM
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valve size

Well guys I got some work done on my 416 heads this weekend. I haven't had anyone who's a pro look at them yet but i think I'm going pretty good so far. The main trouble I'm having is reaching everything. My carbide burs are only 2" long and somehow my extension got bent so there's another 20 bucks I get to get fork out. I purchased the short ones instead of the long ones cuz i thought the long burs would be hard to handle, now i wish i had one but this weeks money is already spent.

Anyway, I had asked previously about the valve size on the heads, in reguard to how big i can go. I know I can go to 194/160, but is that all?? Can i go all the way to 202's? I'll try and get some photo's of my progress this week sometime. Thanks in advance if anyone knows this.
Danny
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Old 09-22-2008, 04:45 PM
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eatonde,
For proper porting you will need a longer bur. I buy a burs with a 6" long shank
and cut them down to ~ 4" long, this reduces high speed wobble that will bend
the shank. In addition you will need a speed control, spinning long shank bits
at extremely high speed is very dangerous.
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Old 09-22-2008, 09:43 PM
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You do not need to try and stuff a 2.02 valve in this head. A 1.94 with a nice port job will flow way enough air to make the power you are after.
A 2.02 valve is severly shrouded in this heads combustion chamber requireing extensive deshrouding to equal the flow of a 1.94 valve with modest deshrouding work and proper porting.
All you'll achieve is creating a more crack prone weak head as you make the space between the valves weaker. A common failure point on OEM heads with 2.02 valves. Stick to the 1.94x 1.60 valve set for this one. Tell your friends ya got 2.08's or whatever if that makes you feel better. If you do a decent porting job with 1.94's the increased performance will speak for itself.
I use 1 long shaft porting burr 3/8" diameter cylinder shape cutter head with rounded end to do the majority of the porting on these heads. Allows you to get deep in the intake port and carve the two critial flow paths around the valve guide and really kick up the flow. You do not need to or want to run the die grinder full out. Make yourself a electric motor speed controler using a simple 110V AC ceiling fan controler available in any good hardware or lighting store.
You can achieve in excess of 243cfm intake a 180+ exhaust on that head with a 1.94 and decent porting. A 2.02 will not work as well.

make 'em look like [IMG][/IMG]
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 09-23-2008, 01:59 PM
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pics

Thanks for the "bit tip" there guys. The only problem is that there is only one store here in PODUNK that carries these burs, and he wont part out a set and sell me what i need. Instead he wants $271 for 4 of the 6" shank burs. Thats why I was trying to find an extension so i didn't hafta order one and wait 2-3 weeks to get it.

Thanks for the pics f bird, If you have any more to share I'd really appreciate it since I am doing the same head. That way i can make every part of mine resemble what you did. Plus that particular one was a lilttle hard to see down in the bowls. I see your point abou the 202 valves, I'll stick witht the 194, 160's. thanks man
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Old 09-23-2008, 02:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatonde
Thanks for the "bit tip" there guys. The only problem is that there is only one store here in PODUNK that carries these burs, and he wont part out a set and sell me what i need. Instead he wants $271 for 4 of the 6" shank burs. Thats why I was trying to find an extension so i didn't hafta order one and wait 2-3 weeks to get it.

Thanks for the pics f bird, If you have any more to share I'd really appreciate it since I am doing the same head. That way i can make every part of mine resemble what you did. Plus that particular one was a lilttle hard to see down in the bowls. I see your point abou the 202 valves, I'll stick witht the 194, 160's. thanks man
i forget where i ordered my 6" ones from but it was here in town
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Old 09-23-2008, 03:54 PM
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price

you remember how much they were?? could you just get one or did you hafta buy a set??
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Old 09-23-2008, 05:37 PM
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Porting is not something you want to get in a hurry with. You should go back to
the store you visited and tell them 4" - 6" long burs sell for ~ $28 each. Then go
to a internet site like this one and order what you need.

mondello
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Old 09-23-2008, 06:32 PM
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Ya the shaddow hides that side of the bowl. Its quite big. ("Port bias") Its a major flow area on a stock SBC head. Just watch the bolt hole that runs next to that port wall. You cannot make that wall perfectly straight. If you look straight into the intake port from the flange you can see that that is your straight high flow path past the valve guide. Major work there creating a strong flow path past the valve guide. Thin and streamline the valve guide as much as possible. Raise the whole roof as much as you dare of the port from the bowl to the gasket flange to a 1205 gasket size.
No thats the only pics of that set of heads. They are on a 350 motor sitting in my garage waiting for me to get off my butt and put it in the car.
They will be coming off again, but not soon. Maybe I can post some more picks of the ports in the future.

Buy the David Vizard book if you want pictures. Auomotive Breath has great pics. The job is essentually the same within the limitations of what you got to work with.

As AB said get the cutters from the internet.
http://www.goodson.com/
http://www.kendrick-auto.com/BurrsRotaryFiles.htm
http://www.eastwoodco.com/
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Old 09-23-2008, 06:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatonde
Thanks for the "bit tip" there guys. The only problem is that there is only one store here in PODUNK that carries these burs, and he wont part out a set and sell me what i need. Instead he wants $271 for 4 of the 6" shank burs. Thats why I was trying to find an extension so i didn't hafta order one and wait 2-3 weeks to get it.

Thanks for the pics f bird, If you have any more to share I'd really appreciate it since I am doing the same head. That way i can make every part of mine resemble what you did. Plus that particular one was a lilttle hard to see down in the bowls. I see your point abou the 202 valves, I'll stick witht the 194, 160's. thanks man
Go here: http://www.carbidebur.com/bursmain.html

Get SF-3L6DBL and SH2L6DBL, these will do 90% of what you need.

Get a Dremel tool and a box of stones for getting in the small spaces.

Take the money you saved and buy a head to practice on, By the time you've screwed up 3 ports, you should have it figured out for the last one. The tool does bite, you need to see how and when it does as it will extract a lot of seat damage from you if it goes off in the wrong place.

Get a jar of Vaseline, you can put a blob in your hand and on you fingers so you can hold onto the shaft and guide it. Yeah, you'll get whacked now and then, it heals. One of the reasons I like stones over bits is when you bind 'em in a hole they bust instead if doing damage to the part or you. But stones suitable for the job are getting hard to find. My fav is 1-1/4 inch long by 1/2 inch dia cylindrical on a 1/4 shank. I shape them either from use or with a shaper tool into what I need. When starting with new stones I begin from the manifold side doing the corners first working inward toward the pocket. Then I flip it over and do the pocket from the seat to the top of the guide. By now I have several stones with the shape and size I want for shaping the guide and areas of the walls adjacent to the guide. Then I pull the flat surfaces to blend into the radius's. This is my rough prep that also serves for quick and dirty street porting. If it's a serious race head, after this rough up it goes on the flow bench for the serious work. But make no mistake, my rough up technique makes a damn effective port. But I've been butchering heads for a lot of decades so while I may make it sound glib like watching a home improvement show remodel a kitchen in half an hour, I know my way around most ports so it goes fast and consistent simply by eyeball. You'll find you've acquired a lot of that by the time you're finished with the sacrificial head.

You might as well buy the sacrificial head up front, 'cause you're more likely than not to sacrifice one of the heads you already have anyway learning what and how to do this. So start with a piece of rusty junk from a puddle at the wrecking yard and learn on it, instead of something decent you already know works. It doesn't even matter if it's exactly the same head, you want to develop a rhythm and feel for what your doing and practice teaches that.

Bogie
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:42 PM
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A woodworking router speed control will work too.

clicky here for some on eBay. 16 bucks!

Also, if you have a sewing machine in the house, you can splice in or adapt right into the plug that goes into the machine and you gots one for free!!

mark
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:42 PM
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By the time you've screwed up 3 ports, you should have it figured out for the last one.

LMFAO.. That pretty well nails it LMFAO
These are the three burrs I use.
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Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 09-23-2008 at 07:49 PM.
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Old 09-23-2008, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatonde
you remember how much they were?? could you just get one or did you hafta buy a set??
26 bucks ,,i think,,you tried NAPA ? (that could have been longer than 6)

Last edited by russcomp; 09-23-2008 at 10:04 PM.
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