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Cylinder Head Porting
Any of you guys had any experience with this. I ordered it today. 16$.........why not
PORTING PORT and POLISH POLISHING KIT RACE HEADS DVD LEARN TO P & P + VALVE JOB | eBay |
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Hard to say. Who wrote it? What are the persons references?
It doesnt say whether the author builds or races. I am a sceptic so dont be offended. Not busting your chops here by any means. I would rather talk to some of the guys here and get tips from them, talk to the machine shop guys who build engines for local racers. Every town has a shop that does speed shop work for competition. I would trust there word over some E Bay DVD of which I knew nothing of the author. But thats just me, like I said , I am a sceptic. On another note , it would be interesting to see what it says in detail. Maybe it is worth the cha ching. Only one way to know for sure.
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Fact is stranger than Fiction |
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I take it your porting estreet heads from your previous post, im porting a set of them myself right now. I talked to a local speed shop that has done a lot of estreets he said to blend the intake port opening they are very rough that being done alone will give you huge gains.
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Thanks italian. I have never ported a set of heads before but am a welder by trade and also did a stint in an auto resto shop so I'm no green horn on a die grinder. I plan to do plenty of research before I start. How bout you?? Any tips you could throw my way would be great.
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I'm a diesel mechanic by trade. I ported a set of camel humps 10 years ago in high school shop and they rocked was a good build. I'm no expert by all means, the guy at the speed shop told me to blend the intake port at the roof, and just smooth out the rest of the runner, and to stay away from the floor just smooth it out a bit. I blended the bowls and cleaned up the exhaust port a little bit also, i didnt get too agressive. I hope this helped ya out a bit.
Last edited by theitalian; 08-05-2012 at 12:39 AM. |
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I don't know anything about that video, but I can tell you from experience that it's tough for any video to cover more than the basics. Every head is different on what works best, and can't say what works for one does the same for all.
I've also found that a little is better, so don't go crazy porting your heads, or you risk having them not work better, or even ruining them. Gasket matching is good, and cleaning up imperfections is also good. Some factory heads have a reputation for having the same imperfections in the same places, so if you know someone who's done much with your type heads, talk to them and see where the bad spots are. I know the newer SBC smog heads have some horrible looking casting flaws hanging into the intake runners when compared to aftermarket, or older better heads. Stay away from the bosses around the valve guide areas in the runners! You can easily ruin heads grinding around that area! Get some machinist bluing and you can mark out the intake gasket to match them, and then just gradually blend, and not go too far. If you have an intake already, check it also against whatever gasket you will use, and match it to the same. On the exhaust side I usually just clean things up, as I haven't found as much increase in performance with a lot of exhaust port work, where intake work seems to garner more for me. Should do all your work with the heads disassembled too! Don't take a chance on damaging a valve stem, or getting grit in places you don't want it. I do all my porting on stripped heads, before any valve job or assembly is done. |
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No the heads are not on the car yet,I only have one finished. Hope to have the engine built in in the car in 2 weeks. Thats some good adivise 1971BB427
Last edited by theitalian; 08-05-2012 at 11:08 AM. |
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By disassembled I didn't mean off the engine, I meant disassembled with all valves and springs off the heads. And of course off the engine too!
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Thanks for the great info 1971bb427. My paln in not to remove to much metal as I don't want to lose port velocity. I think I will port match and blend intake runnes, smooth out short side radius, polish up runners to 40G. Do the same on exhaust side minus the port match and polish up to a finer grit. Polish up combustion chambers, de shrould exhaust valves (if needed) and do some clean up in the bowl area. If you guys see any flaws in my plan please speak up. Any info would be great!!......the one questuon I have is when I'm finished can I just reasemble the heads with out valve job?? I'm buying them assembled so pretty sure I don't need to worry about that but not 100% sure. Thanks in advance guys.
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When you are done get a 3 angle valve job done. If you can find a shop and the heads have the material in the right place, get a 5 angle job done.
Cleaning casting flash,port matching, smoothing the short turn radius ...all good ideas. So is not going overboard.
__________________
Fact is stranger than Fiction |
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Anybody have any Idea what Kind of valve job come stock on the E-streets. I dont see any info on there site. Cant I just disseble the heads, do the porting, reassemble and them put them back in service??. I want to avoid a machine shop if I can.
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If these are new Estreet heads then you wont need another valve job. They come with a good valve job. I'd be careful not to do anythin more than polishing in the chambers. Start unshrouding valves and you'll change the CC size of the chambers, and also creat differences between chambers that result in differences in compression ration from one to the others. If you don't know how to CC a chamber to match them all, you should only polish them lightly.
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