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Old 11-28-2011, 08:16 PM
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Cylinder Head seat cutting tools

I figured with the holidays coming up I would treat myself to some much needed tools. I bought an older sioux valve grinder a while back that I can reface all my valve with but I don't have any seat cutters. I read through the following article and learned quite a bit from it.
http://lib.store.yahoo.net/lib/yhst-...ttermanual.pdf
http://www.newayts.com.au/seatguiderest.htm

Idk If I should get a general purpose stone cutter like this...
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/va...l-purpose.html
Or something like this....
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/2nestsecubo.html
According to neway the carbide cutter is the better way to go because the stones will change shape... which I have noticed on my machinists stones... So is it worth the $100 buck a pop to get the different cutters....
Generally All I do are small block chevy engines with a small block ford mixed in every now and then... Its all street or street/strip stuff usually nothing crazy or exotic. generally I put a 45* angle on the valve and my machinist lets me use his 45* stone and drill to do the seats but I would rather have the tools myself. If I go with the first option I will need two $10 stones a pilot and drill....and a If I go with the second option I will need to get two $100 cutters(one for 1.94 or 2.02" vavles and one for 1.5 or 1.72" valves) and a T-handle and a pilot. But according to neways links I need to do the first, second, and third cut.... would this be like 60*, 30*, and 45*?... so does that mean I need 6 individual carbide cutter or four with two that have two angles on it...


I just found these.....
http://new3acut.com/CutterHeads.html
Seems more economical...
I was also gonna buy a valve lapping stick and some blue dye. Any suggestions on what grit compound I should use... Most articles I have read said to start with 280 then finish with 120....http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/clovercompound.html

idk i guess im hoping more that maybe someone can just kick me in the right direction lol.... thanks for any and all input.

Last edited by zildjian4life218; 11-28-2011 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:31 PM
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If you have a stone dressing tool I don't see any reason not to use stones and just dress them as needed. They work on hard seats too.

I used a Kwik Way back in the old days and several sets of stones for each angle. I never wore grooves in the stones. You should not have to do any hogging. The Kwik Way did a nice job on the valves too. You can back cut them easily too.

The cutters aren't going to work very well on a hand held device with hard seats.. In a Bridgeport they work well.

Have to edit here...I didn't see the video. There is more to it than the cutters. As you can see in the vids there is a stand and a driver support. there is quite a bit of money in this stuff so check it out before you jump in.

Last edited by bentwings; 11-28-2011 at 08:55 PM.
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Old 11-28-2011, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
If you have a stone dressing tool I don't see any reason not to use stones and just dress them as needed. They work on hard seats too.
I don't have one now I just have access to use my machinists when I go to his shop

Quote:
Originally Posted by bentwings
The cutters aren't going to work very well on a hand held device with hard seats.. In a Bridgeport they work well.
I do have a drill press and I have made a device to level the head because I use it to do valve spring seats and guides but I don't know If i can get it slow enough. I think the carbide cutters usually like around 45 rpm
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Old 11-28-2011, 09:09 PM
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If your guy is using a stone system, Kwik Way or Storm, I'd just make a deal with him to use his machine and get your own stones. You still need the right size pilots. KwikWay had tapered pilots so they would stick in the guides and not move around. also had a neat tool to install the pilot and remove them. Generally you have a number of different sizes of pilots varying by .001.

We always either resized the guides or installed bronze liners or simply installed new guides in the heads that had replaceable ones, first. then we ground the seats so everything was concentric. It was easy to get them within .001. Tool for measuring this is required too. Your guy probably has one.

If you are going to do cutters you will need a handfull of these for different size valves. Idon't know how they will work in a drill press. Maybe you can try it out at his shop. Wear saftey glasses.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:21 AM
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What do you think of these?
http://new3acut.com/new3acut.html
Then all I would have to do is buy two different size bodies and a set of 15x45x60 blades. Its kind of nice the incorporate the 3 angle valve job into one set of blades.
The slowest my drill press will go is 300rpm... I wonder if that will be too fast....
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:39 AM
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Insert blade systems use a very slow speed 45-70 rpm in general. As for the 3 in one system. It relies on their mic to correctly set up the cutters. I'll bet it ain't cheap.. One cutter a bit off and you have complicated problems.


I have the Kwik-way, Serdi and the Neway systems. In my shop the Neway system is mostly used on later model 4-6 cyl multi mini valve systems. The cutters/pilots are available in the mini sizes and I don't have to cut down or adapt expensive stones. I do use the larger sizes to quickly correct seats that are waaay off.. I have several thousand dollers in the complete unit..

I use the Kwik-way system for a lot of my performance jobs. I'm old school and I can do any angle on the face of the stone. Also I like stone finish on final seats. Even when using the Serdi profiled seat cutters I will use a stone for final polish on the seat.

Also several thousand bucks in this system. Plus periodical chuck runout checks and rebuilds.. Valve work done correctly ain't cheap..

Last edited by BOBCRMAN@aol.com; 11-29-2011 at 08:49 AM.
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Old 11-29-2011, 08:43 AM
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300 RPM is too fast.
I use 50 RPM

I still use a wet grinder to get final finish on the seat.
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Old 11-30-2011, 08:29 AM
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Thanks for the replies everyone. I guess if I went with any system it would probably be the stone style cutters. Can you use a drill press instead of their $1000 drill? or do they use a special connector? Like I said before all I do mostly is small block stuff so I would only need just a couple of these to do what I need.
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Old 11-30-2011, 10:41 AM
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also I would like to start lapping my own valves. What grit compound should I get? This will be done on freshly cut seats and valves so I don't think I need a rather course grit. I will also buy the valve lapper tool which is only like 5 bucks. I think I will order from cylinderheadsupply.com
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Old 12-02-2011, 07:40 PM
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bump anyone?
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