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Old 03-16-2011, 05:05 PM
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Cylinder Head Suggestion

I have a Ford 351w engine with a .040 over bore. So far Iím in the beginning stages of this engine build, and mild performance engine building itself, so any help is appreciated. I plan on running a 427 DSS Racing stroker kit, Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake, Holley Truck Avenger 770cfm carb, and CompCams Extreme 4x4 cam (.448 intake and .482 exhaust). Where I get confused is on what size cylinder head to run. I would like to have 10.1 to 10.5.1 compression or even 11.1 if you think you can run 93 octane on it. Iíve read anything from 67cc to 58cc combustion chambers for the head. Also what cubic inch will the motor be with a 427 kit and a .040 over bore? So if you have any suggestions on what size head I should run, it would be greatly appreciated. Or if you have any other suggestions or changes to the motor. Thanks!

P.S. Iím dropping this motor into my 03 Jeep TJ. Going to be used for on and off road use.

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Old 03-16-2011, 05:48 PM
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If the stroker kit is the one they have using a 4.170" stroke crank, it is 425.5 cubic inch at 4.030" bore size, and 427.6 cubic inch at 4.040" bore.

Head chamber size choice is going to depend on piston type(dome, flat top, or dish) and compression ratio desired.

Tell us what piston style and its dome, dish, or valve relief volume along with the rpm you intend to redline at and someone may be able to help you with a hea choice.

The more detail you can give the better answer you will get.
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Old 03-16-2011, 05:56 PM
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I'd like to run flat top 3cc piston heads and run red line at 5,500 to 6,000 rpm.
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Old 03-16-2011, 09:09 PM
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With a 3cc valve reliefs, .041" thick head gasket and the block zero decked 67cc head gets you 12.15-1, 58cc head gets you 13.6-1 compression. Non-zero decked block reduces these by .5 of a point.

You'er going to need a dished piston if you want to run this on pump gas. Approximately 22cc dish to get 10.0-1 with a 67cc head.

Makes a .5 point difference which year 351 Windsor block you have. The '69-70 block is 9.480" tall, the '71-up block is 9.503" tall.
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Old 03-17-2011, 09:45 AM
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I have an 80's block. And thanks for all the info. Thats the most clear answer i've gotten on this in many weeks or research. I looked at the stroker kit again from DSS and the only piston head that is close to what you recommended is an 18cc dish. Would that work or should i find a different stroker? Thank you!

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Old 03-17-2011, 02:36 PM
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I'm not totally into Ford, do you know if there are any aftermarket head choices with chamber sizes bigger than 67cc??

With the 1980's block you have an 18cc dish will put you right at 10.0-1 compression with a 67cc head. Would be doable on pump gas with aluminum heads.
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Old 03-17-2011, 02:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_3303
I have an 80's block. And thanks for all the info. Thats the most clear answer i've gotten on this in many weeks or research. I looked at the stroker kit again from DSS and the only piston head that is close to what you recommended is an 18cc dish. Would that work or should i find a different stroker? Thank you!
Like the Chevy guys you need to find a D dish piston. The engine responds to a piston that puts a flat surface against the squish/quench step of the head. This is a substantial increase in power, efficiency, and detonation resistance over what can be obtained from a circular dish piston.

The closer you can get the piston crown to the head's squish/quench deck the better. .060 is good .040 is better and is about the safe limit for a street engine to keep piston and head comfortably separated.

Bogie
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ericnova72
I'm not totally into Ford, do you know if there are any aftermarket head choices with chamber sizes bigger than 67cc??

With the 1980's block you have an 18cc dish will put you right at 10.0-1 compression with a 67cc head. Would be doable on pump gas with aluminum heads.
I know AFR makes a 72cc head and so does Ford Racing's Cobra Jet Heads. Pretty sure Trick Flow does as well.
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Old 03-17-2011, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by oldbogie
The closer you can get the piston crown to the head's squish/quench deck the better. .060 is good .040 is better and is about the safe limit for a street engine to keep piston and head comfortably separated.

Bogie

Like I said in the original post, i'm new to this kind of engine building, so sorry for all the questions. How do you determine the "squish/quench" and how do you get it to .040? Does it have to do with the cc of the piston or the head?
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Old 03-17-2011, 06:08 PM
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Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, guys. Squish is the sum of piston to deck clearance at TDC plus head gasket compressed thickness. Best results are obtained by using a positive stop TDC locater and degree wheel to locate exact TDC (attach degree wheel to balancer, attach piston stop to block. Rotate crank clockwise until piston hits stop, mark degree. Rotate counter-clockwise until stop, mark degree. The midpoint between the two degree figures is exact TDC.) Set piston to TDC and measure the depth (or height) from the block to the center of the piston. Measure a couple times to ensure accuracy because piston rock can throw off your measurement. For me, a straight edge and dial gauge worked best, but feeler gauges work too. If your piston to block clearance is .020 and you use a .041 compressed thickness head gasket you would have a squish of .061 which (from my understanding) is on the high side of acceptable. Zero decking the block with the same gasket would yield a near optimal .041 squish.
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Old 03-18-2011, 03:49 PM
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Thanks for the post, it really helps with all of this. Never knew there could be these many steps in engine building. I always just bought a gasket and slapped it on without measuring anything, of course this is just with stock replacement parts but still. Thanks again, I really appreciate it!
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