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Old 06-15-2010, 09:26 PM
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Cylinder honing 305 smc

Alright i have a question

Can you hone and use stock bore rings? or what should i buy if i hone it?

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Old 06-15-2010, 09:32 PM
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Ghetto rebuild. I've done it many times. My current daily driver is on stock diameter rings with a bottle hone job in the cylinders. Gapped at 0.030"/0.035". Runs good. Sometimes you can use +0.005" rings and gap 'em.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:37 PM
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ok just making shure it will run ok i fryed the rings in it thats why im rebuilding it i guess i turned to many rpms with the rings or something i was getting ALOT of blow by i guess ill go stock diameter rings and go at it! gonna put stock cam back in it with new lifter. gonna put new seals in the heads im just gonna use my current parts just freshen it up a bit.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenbullet44
Alright i have a question

Can you hone and use stock bore rings? or what should i buy if i hone it?
If the ridge at the top of the cylinders is pronounced, the new rings- which are not worn to those cylinders- have sharp, squared off edges that will plow into the cylinder's ridges. If this is bad enough, the result is broken rings and/or broken piston ring lands, and a waste of time and money.

The ridges are difficult to remove precisely using most ridge reamers, although you may be able to get a shop to remove them good enough to not cause the engine to fail in short order.

You know the best option (a proper rebuild), so I'll leave it at that.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:45 PM
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There is no ridge there but the blow by was terrible i was told the rings probly got stuck or something.
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by goldenbullet44
ok just making shure it will run ok i fryed the rings in it thats why im rebuilding it i guess i turned to many rpms with the rings or something i was getting ALOT of blow by i guess ill go stock diameter rings and go at it! gonna put stock cam back in it with new lifter. gonna put new seals in the heads im just gonna use my current parts just freshen it up a bit.
Do NOT use new lifters on the old cam- it might work, but more often than not this causes both the old cam and the new lifters to wear out in a matter of minutes- and this spreads ground up hardened metal all through the engine.

Much better to just reuse the old lifters. If they're too worn out, just buy a $14 cam from Competition Products and that- along w/the new lifters you were going to buy anyway- will freshen it up the right way (cam-wise, anyway).

Use moly cam break in lube on the bottoms of the lifters and on the cam lobes, the distributor gear, fuel pump cam and f/p push rod. Use motor oil on the cam bearing journals and the lifter sides.
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Old 06-15-2010, 10:00 PM
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Those $14 cams are shown HERE. In fact, this is a good place to get all the parts you need, IMO.
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Old 06-15-2010, 11:15 PM
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[QUOTE=techinspector1]Ghetto rebuild. I've done it many times. My current daily driver is on stock diameter rings with a bottle hone job in the cylinders. Gapped at 0.030"/0.035". Runs good. Sometimes you can use +0.005" rings and gap 'em.[/QUOTE

Hey tech just curious, but what is your daily driver
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Old 06-16-2010, 02:33 AM
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[QUOTE=American Muscle]
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
Ghetto rebuild. I've done it many times. My current daily driver is on stock diameter rings with a bottle hone job in the cylinders. Gapped at 0.030"/0.035". Runs good. Sometimes you can use +0.005" rings and gap 'em.[/QUOTE

Hey tech just curious, but what is your daily driver
'91 Ford F150, 300-6, 5-speed, 4WD, Longbed, Single cab. Freshened it up a year and a half ago with bearings, rings, new cam and lifters, new oil pump, new cam gear. Head was done by my friend Frank at the local automotive machine shop where I do business. The main problem with it then was that the crank rattled in the bearings every time I started it and I just got tired of hearing it. Also, oil pressure was low.
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:12 AM
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[QUOTE=techinspector1]
Quote:
Originally Posted by American Muscle
'91 Ford F150, 300-6, 5-speed, 4WD, Longbed, Single cab. Freshened it up a year and a half ago with bearings, rings, new cam and lifters, new oil pump, new cam gear. Head was done by my friend Frank at the local automotive machine shop where I do business. The main problem with it then was that the crank rattled in the bearings every time I started it and I just got tired of hearing it. Also, oil pressure was low.
What kind of hot rods you have
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Old 06-16-2010, 05:26 AM
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http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-10000LK/

OR

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LUN-10001LK/
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Old 06-17-2010, 03:42 AM
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[QUOTE=American Muscle]
Quote:
Originally Posted by techinspector1
What kind of hot rods you have
None at present. Sold out everything but my hand tools when I retired. Last ride was a 27T w/429/C6, homemade 2x6 chassis and IFS. Before that were 302/C4 in small Mitsubishi pickup, 455 Olds/TH400/10.25" Olds rear in Chevy Luv pickup, 392 Hemi/Torquflite in '57 MGA on '65 Ford frame, narrowed and shortened, 413 Mopar/Torqueflite in '61 Bug on '62 Olds frame, narrowed and shortened, '48 Ford Tudor with '51 Merc flathead in F/Gas sedan, 259 Stude in '59 Lark, running G/Stock. Many others that were sold before finished. Funny how someone comes around to see what you're doing and decides they need whatever it is you're working on more than you do. Also helped a multitude of friends on their projects through the years. It has been a lot of fun, but my physical condition won't allow twisting and turning and laying on my back any more. I kept my hand tools though, just so I could do the simple stuff like brake jobs and such.
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Old 06-17-2010, 10:50 PM
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ive replaced collapsed lifters in a chevy 350 with new ones and kept the original cam in it and was fine...... and still is to this day.... since about 8 years ago when i did it..... in an 85 G-30 dually cube van,

it will work so as long as the cam lobes are ok still.
and if you properly lube all the parts up during assembly and break it in correctly

i guess i have better luck than most ppl do maybe,.

hmm

good luck!
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Old 06-18-2010, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast68
ive replaced collapsed lifters in a chevy 350 with new ones and kept the original cam in it and was fine...... and still is to this day.... since about 8 years ago when i did it..... in an 85 G-30 dually cube van,

it will work so as long as the cam lobes are ok still.
and if you properly lube all the parts up during assembly and break it in correctly

i guess i have better luck than most ppl do maybe,.

hmm

good luck!
In a stock Chevy small block w/old springs and a stock cam w/.390"/.410" lift you might get by w/just swapping out the lifters. Or you might not- there's no guarantee.

And if/when they fail, the entire engine should be disassembled and properly cleaned of all the grit that is now all through the engine. If the filter goes into bypass mode, the crank, oil pump, rod and main bearings, etc. can all be trashed.

In that case, an entire rebuild is needed- all for not putting a $14 cam in it.
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Old 06-18-2010, 08:47 AM
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The ridges are difficult to remove precisely using most ridge reamers, although you may be able to get a shop to remove them good enough to not cause the engine to fail in short order.
X2, but a good machinist will not want to remove just the ridge, as it is the remains of the original bore, and is a valuable tool used to center the boreing bar when boring the block.
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