D-rust it, Safest rust remover, Evapo rust. - Page 2 - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2009, 02:48 PM
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The electrolysis method I'm trying does not use any kind of chemical, but must be immersed. All you use is sodium carbonate to create an electrolyte. Bought some ph adjuster at a hot tub supplier. Don't know if this is the same as the shower method?

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 03-14-2009, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MARTINSR
Again ,no chemist here. My degree is in cardiology

The one thing that I can't get my head around is rinsing bare metal with water. I remember using a product such as this years ago and after following directions and rinsing it a VERY fast flash rust occured. I have never used it since. I obviously did something wrong if this is a standard procedure.

Brian

Flash rust is a problem but it is usually easy to remove by sanding, brushing, etc after the part has dried. Depends a LOT on the water being used too, seems the spring water at my place does not have nearly (if any) the flash rust problem as the city water I had at my shop. I used the DuPont Metal Etch solution back in the Lacquer primer days in an effort to use it right (if there is such a thing as using that crap right! ) and it would turn an otherwise clean looking panel into a colored panel that had hues of blue and brown but mostly a golden brown, little doubt what that was! I got flash rusting each time I did this but I simply scuffed it off and applied the primer, never had any problem at all and it sure seemed to help adhesion.
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Old 03-14-2009, 04:09 PM
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Well it's been a long time since chemistry class, but yes the chemistry does work. Rust is nothing more than iron-oxide (iron and oxygen) but to form it needs a catalyst (water, or even better salt). reversing this process is simple, remove the oxygen atom from the iron, and bingo, back to pure iron. It is a simple redox reaction that any high school chemistry teacher would be able to show you. This can be accomplished by either a chemical bath like evapo rust, or electrolysis (like the solution mentioned here).

Have you ever used one of those dips for your wifes silver to get the tarnish off, same thing... silver tarnish is just rust on silver.

That being said these systems only work on rust that is bonded to the rest of the metal. if the rust flakes off, so will the iron once it is returned back to metal, so get the big chunks off.

OH and this stuff is a piss poor degreaser, and has a very hard time penetrating any kind of contaminant.... so clean thoroughly to get best results...

Sorry I don't remember the exact chemistry, but the theory is sound from what I do remember. And no, I have never used any of these products myself, so I can't comment on their effectiveness.

Hope that may be of some assistance..... IF you do give it a go I would love to hear the results..... Keep us posted....

James
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Old 05-01-2009, 12:05 PM
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I have used all three products, the safestrustremover product does everything they show on the safestrustremover website.

I also read in Hot Rod magazine the safestrustremover did the best job on the heaviest rust on the hood of the project car they were doing.

They do incrediable work removing rust with the sump pump approach that they seem to have invented for the safestrustremover product .

The 1957 Plymouth Belvedere preservation project seems to be in the right hands as far as rust remover products go for the job they are about to do .
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-01-2009, 12:20 PM
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In the original post, weeping seams due to the dipping process was mentioned. The only way to make sure this does not happen is if the outfit that dips the body has the capability to then dip the body into an e-coat bath. Total immersion into primer is the only sure way to prevent rust creepage from seams that have been laid bare by an acid dipping process.
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Old 05-01-2009, 10:18 PM
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Here's a place that offers dipping and e-coating. I'm sure it requires deep pockets!

http://www.metalfinishings.com/services.html
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Old 05-02-2009, 03:56 PM
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acid dipping

Crash tech, I agree when acid is used. I spoke to person that I feel is very knowlegable, in chemestry. They advised that there is not enough PH balance for this product to "attack" good steel. My plan is to blow seams out dry, epoxy and seam seal where ever possible to reach . I will also be using 3M Rustfighter I as a cavity wax when complete. I have been to busy to start this with all the activity spring brings. But, hope to start soon, will keep all posted on results.
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