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-   -   Dakota digital dash problem (http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/dakota-digital-dash-problem-124340.html)

1969NovaSS 09-13-2007 11:26 PM

Dakota digital dash problem
 
I was wondering if anyone on here has experience with dakota digital gauges? I rewired my neighbors 1958 chevy truck and installed this dash at the same time. When I have the KOEO ti rears fun but as soon as it starts the gauges start flickering. I checked the power and grounds and they check out. I mounted the control box against metal and it seemed to help then I revved the engine and it started again. I think it could be the plug wires but i dont know if they are solid core wires or not and he didn't install them. All they say are super stock copper core 8mm. Does anyone have an idea on what could be wrong or if those wires are a solid core?

powerrodsmike 09-14-2007 12:00 AM

Inductance and RFI interference from the plugs , wires and other power sources can cause all kinds of grief with those dakota digital dashes..

Get the wires that come from the speedo pulse generator away from the plug wires and any other wires that carry current. (the firewall won't keep the inductance away) and try not to run the wires from the alternator in the same bundle as the ribbon cable for the dash or sending units.. I'd start with the speedo wires though.

That's what I had to do the last time I had a prob with the tach and speedo acting strange in a 41 plymouth with a dakota digital dash.


Now what language is this?...
Quote:

When I have the KOEO ti rears fun...

Huh? :D


later, mikey

Bryan59EC 09-14-2007 06:02 AM

Solid core plug wires are a no-no with the DD gages

The speedometer wires need to be routed away from the Tach wire.

If the tach and the speed wires are too close----speedometer will read speeds other than '00' while at idle.

Bryan

1969NovaSS 09-14-2007 08:02 AM

well the speed reads 00 and doesn't flicker. The tach and the bar graph do not either. The volt, oil pres, and water temp are the ones that flicker. This may get tricky because I ran alt. wire down the intake with the water sender then they go separate ways. The oil sender runs with the 12v to e the kick down(th400) right next to the distributor(sbc). The volts are picked up from a switched 12v under the dash. The control box is mounted under the dash, upside down, right above and behind the distributor.Do you see any problems with those routings? Should I tell him to get new wires from autozone? I just don't want to do that and still have the problem. By the way Mikey It was late and spell check didn't pickup on it. When I have the Key On Engine Off it runs fine..

powerrodsmike 09-14-2007 08:23 AM

Try the plug wires first. I'll bet that's it.

You can see if the alt wire is doing anything by pulling it loose and starting the car, then look for changes in behavior.

Also, try running a continous independent ground wire from the motor to the control box. Just a temporary one will tell you what you need to know.


later, mikey

Irelands child 09-14-2007 10:34 AM

Try some good Taylor or MSD Spiral Core wires - new the resistance is virtually zero, with no RFI and from my experience, have been better then the old copper core on street engines. Also, with an MSD box, they are a necessity.

Others have had good luck with Accel wires, my personal experience is that they last only a year or so before they seem to dry out and make interesting under hood light shows :D .

This is coming from someone that thought copper core and Accel was the only way.

Dave

1969NovaSS 09-14-2007 08:59 PM

I removed the alt. wire and it still did it. Im going to buy some cheap autozone wires just to see if thats the problem.


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