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Old 07-15-2009, 04:48 PM
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Dakota Digital Dash Problems

I am trying to program the fuel gauge on a Dakota Digital Dash. I purchased a Stainless Steel tank from Rick's Hot rod Shop out of Texas. The dash shows an ERROR signal or out of range signal. That means I am not in an OHM range of the program choosen. I have been trying different programs that they have in the ECU. I can not get the sending unit to correspond with the dash instrument panel. The Oil gauge shows --- when the motor is running; which means there is also a communication problem there too. (Just like my wife and I). This Dakota Dash should not be this difficult to program. I am doing something wrong. Can you guys suggest different ways to test and find the problems.

If you need more info please ask

Kirk

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Old 07-15-2009, 04:54 PM
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I have installed many Dakota digital dashes and ran into the oil press problem and it was due to a bad connection with the terminal I used for the sender. Try that or check to make sure you have a good ground from the engine block to the dash brain. As to the fuel gauge, do you know what the ohm readings are for your sending unit empty and full? This will let you know if the dash can even accommodate it. When I have been stumped the people at Dakota Digital have been very helpful. Good Luck

Last edited by blue54; 07-15-2009 at 04:55 PM. Reason: Missed question mark
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:31 PM
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Tonight I will pull out the sending unit and check the OHM range and post it tomorrow. You said that possibly the sending unit might not be compatible. The "terminal I" what was the problem there?

Need more info
Thanks
Kirk
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:33 PM
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Any sending unit for the fuel gage should be programable
(my gages are 4+ years old and have the custom feature)

In the menu for the fuel there should be listings for Ford, GM early, GM late, Dodge, SW, VDO, custom.

To actually program the unit installed in the car, you need to start with an empty tank. (and be in the 'custom' menu of the fuel gage)

I started with 2 gallons to read empty.

The gage is set at empty (00)
set again at 1/3 (33)
set again at 2/3 (66)
and again at full (99)

I actually pumped the tank dry, added 2 gallons, drove to the local "I forgot something at the real store" beer/gas/cigarette store.
Did my calibrations at the pump.

You do need to know the capacity of your tank tho.

You most likely do not need to remove the sending unit at all.

As for the oil---
You need to have '000' resistance from the sending unit body to the engine, to the battery, to the brainbox of the gages. THIS APPLIES TO THE TEMP SENDER AS WELL!!!!.

These gages are VERY sensitive to poor grounds and also voltage drops.

A bad alternator actually caused my temps to read high, and oil to read low.
(13.7volts while running-----turning on headlights increased temp gage by 15deg and lowered oil by 10 as the voltage dropped to less than 12 with cooling fans running)
These gages NEED 14volts to operate correctly.

Last edited by Bryan59EC; 07-15-2009 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:38 PM
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Hi Bryan

I tried the custom settings, but I made a mistake half way through. I will try that one again tonight.

Thanks
I will report back
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Old 07-15-2009, 05:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkschopped67
Hi Bryan

I tried the custom settings, but I made a mistake half way through. I will try that one again tonight.

Thanks
I will report back
First time I did mine----about three trys.
And I was filling 5 gal jugs-----had 6 of those things in the drive.
Seems I would almost finish and "SHE" (actually, the better half) would
ask, or tell me something and I would get lost..
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Old 07-15-2009, 10:57 PM
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I think I am married to the sister. Tonight I removed the tank (pain in the ---). The sending unit measured 0-90 OHMs. I hooked up wire to the sending unit when I had it out of the tank. It seemed to work but was very slow to register a number. I guess they are just slow. Reinstalled and getting 00 blinking. I will go back in and check the ground again. I was going to attach a second ground wire, but was in to much of a hurry. Did not get a chance to work on the OIL sending unit. I will keep you informed.

Thanks for the help, if you think of any more Ideas let me know

Kirk
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:26 AM
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There should be a tab on the sending unit that MUST be connected to the frame.

the power (12v) is going to and thru the gage, from the gage to the sending unit and actually completes the circuit at the frame (gnd)

If that sending unit does not have a solid ground----not gonna work.

(off to Dakota's web site)
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Old 07-16-2009, 05:50 AM
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Flashing '00' is a good thing----but you are outta gas.
Might try adding some fuel to see what happens.
Possibly, the sending unit is not adjusted to reach the bottom (or top) of the tank.

-- is a short to somewhere
EE is an open circuit

this is on water-fuel-oil gages.
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Old 07-16-2009, 12:40 PM
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Over the next few days I will do all the things you suggested. This at least gives me somewhere to start. Thank you for your time, I will let you know soon how this is coming.

This is a new build from the ground up. Nothing is original, so I know there well be some problems, but I like trying to solve them.

Thanks again
Kirk
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Old 07-16-2009, 02:37 PM
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Bryan

After thinking about what I had read; I realized that the battery is only putting out 11.73 volts with the motor off. With a good ground, once I start the motor it may begin to read. The oil unit did not read when the motor was running, but I have tried to make a better ground. I will work on it and get back to you.


P.S. I would think that we should be able to attach some kind of ground wire to the outside of the OIL sending unit, and run a wire to a ground post. Have you ever done this?
Kirk
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