[Arts]

Dana, I have been to your site and read a bit about the 700r4 up shift problem from 1 to 2 and 2 to 3 only at high rpm's. I have changed filter and fluid; quite a bit of alum. I changed the TV cable, found the high speed sensor to be full of fluid and changed it out and replaced the governor gear. If this problem just appears all of a sudden; I assume the TV cable was not out of adjustment! My question is what causes this to just start to happen? And, What does the alum indicate to be going wrong all of a sudden? The valve in the body with spring and plunger; should it be tight or have play in it when the body is removed? HELP!!!!!!

[Goldduster360]

If you have allot of metal in the pan and it's shifting funny or not at all that is a bad sign. Was the fluid really dark in color? Usually when they start shifting funny and there is allot of metal or dark colored fluid that means there is enough trash in the valve body to start jamming valves. I had an 85 monte ss that wiped out one of the planetary sets and the resulting shrapnel jammed up the valve body and caused no upshifts.

[Arts]

Thanks for your input Goldduster360. The fluid was'nt burned but almost had that foamy look when water gets into it. I changed it and after some trial runs it started to look metal again. I am pretty sure it is toast but want to make sure before I start the rebuilding process; and if driving in overdrive with a load is really the cause.

[briscoe]

Arts, Are you getting any whining sound associated with this shifting problem?

Metal of any sort in a transmission is bad.

If you look at your tv cable, where it adjusts at and it hasn't moved, this would lead you to think it may not be a problem with the cable.

The TV valve inside the valve body [sticking ], is perhaps the most likely cause of your transmission concern.

Pulling the valve body off to "free" the valve up is not the answer, because something inside the trans, or torque converter is coming apart.

It's time for some major work.

[Arts]

thanks Dana; I was assuming that would be your answer.
Just waiting on your CD now to start the process.

[Arts]

Thanks all for your past input; I have rebuilt the trans and all seemed well till I tried reverse. It does not engage fully at first then engages as you throttle. I tested the pressures at idle and stall. most were only 25 at idle and 125 at stall. What can cause the pressures to be so low? A friend said the PR valve may be sticking or else a bad pump. When I tore into the pump it was scored some and sanded it out but the veins looked good. Any ideas would help!!! (this is the closest to scratching my head)

[Crosley]

Originally Posted by Arts

Thanks all for your past input; I have rebuilt the trans and all seemed well till I tried reverse. It does not engage fully at first then engages as you throttle. I tested the pressures at idle and stall. most were only 25 at idle and 125 at stall. What can cause the pressures to be so low? A friend said the PR valve may be sticking or else a bad pump. When I tore into the pump it was scored some and sanded it out but the veins looked good. Any ideas would help!!! (this is the closest to scratching my head)

Sanded out score marks? Did you reset the internal pump rotor and slide clearance to around .0015 ?

It is possible that many things are incorrect or over looked. With 25 psi at idle you have a large problem.

have you pulled the pan to see if the boost valve assembly is still installed?

[Arts]

What do you mean "reset" the internal pump rotor and ...?

[Crosley]

Originally Posted by Arts

What do you mean "reset" the internal pump rotor and ...?

setting the clearance of the pump internal parts with a micrometer depth gauge. Very important. IF the clearance is too high the pump becomes some what inefficient..... eg; low pressure

You said you sanded out score marks..... this changes clearance and the surface may not be smooth enough for the pump rotor and slide to function correctly.

At 25 psi at idle , I doubt this is the only problem / cause of the low pressure

[Arts]

O.K. so lets start with the simplest problems first. I have just pulled the valve body out and all the valves seem to be free; which is the PR valve; the one behind the switch? Now what is the next, if there is one, cause of the problem to check without pulling the tran out?

[Crosley]

Originally Posted by Arts

O.K. so lets start with the simplest problems first. I have just pulled the valve body out and all the valves seem to be free; which is the PR valve; the one behind the switch? Now what is the next, if there is one, cause of the problem to check without pulling the tran out?

I would suggest you find help from an experienced trans person..... the PR valve is in the pump assembly(stator support) behind the PR spring and boost valves.