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Old 03-13-2008, 04:56 PM
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Dangit Bobby...Problematic Calipers

Well, I had to do the front disc brakes on my 84' C10 for inspection today, and I ran into a bunch of problems on the old cruddy calipers.

First on the left side, I broke off the bleeder valve. Against my will, I continue with the rest of the replacement. Get it back on and go to bleed it, but obviously there's no valve left. Again against my better judgment, the old man gives me this speel about being able to bleed it from the break line bolt, which to me makes no damn sense since air will still be trapped in the piston. We do it anyhow, naturally, it doesn't work worth squat, but he thinks it's "good enough".

Next onto the right. I take the caliper off...no fluid. Nothing dripping from the line, zip, zilch. PLUS, this one's bleeder valve decides to round off. Grrrr.... But OF COURSE, someone's too hardheaded to do crap right. New pads, put it back together and tried to bleed from the line. As if the left side didn't work enough, this side's even worse. Absolutely NOTHING comes out of the line without the booster on.

So, I've got...

One clogged brake line, two botched bleeder valves, and an old man who thinks he can defy physics and make air magically stop from rising in a liquid.


So guys, any advice here? Mainly with the bleeders? I figured they'd need to be drilled and re-tapped, but ole' hardhead thinks new calipers are the way. I wouldn't mind if he was paying, but it's my money he wants to throw away.

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Old 03-13-2008, 07:04 PM
F&J F&J is offline
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I just priced calipers for a slightly older 78 c-10 at auto zone. $15.99 each with a core for reman without pads. (pretty darn cheap, rather than trying to fix yours)

$20.95 each for rubber brake lines.

Take the rubber lines off and see if they are swollen shut on the insides. Try air or thin wire.

Also when bleeding; there is a small rubber boot covering a "pin" on the proportioning valve located in the middle of the front crossmember. Sometimes you need to hold that pin "in" while trying to bleed. It is the safety valve that blocks one circuit if a line pops. Chevy Dealers had a small bracket that held the pin while bleeding.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:14 PM
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gokuss, I would do what F&J suggests. It will be a lot cheaper in the long run.

Frank
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:25 PM
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I normally take a socket thats larger than the bleeder...and smack it a few times before cracking them open. If the lines frozen to the hose, twist the hose off from the line.

As cheap as calipers are, a new set is the way to go...by the time I find the rite drill bit, the sucker would break, a quick run to store, new drill bit is wrong size, back to the store, forgot to bring calipers, U turn home... see how my luck goes lol 1/2 a day wasted
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:56 PM
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Listen to F&J,He is 100% correct no matter whose money it is. And on a truck that old I would not bother checking the hoses,just change them and be done. They were bad for failing on the inside and making a flap like a check valve.I am not rich either but some things just need to be new.
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