Darn bolt won't come loose - Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board
Hotrodders.com -- Hot Rod Forum



Register FAQ Search Today's Posts Unanswered Posts Auto Escrow Insurance Auto Loans
Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board > Tech Help> Suspension - Brakes - Steering
User Name
Password
lost password?   |   register now

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:22 PM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Darn bolt won't come loose

This is one of those hex key type bolts on a 78 firebird frame. It is one of two that hold the sway bar to the frame.

My problem is when I try to remove the bolt the female end that the bolt screws into keeps turning as well. I thought of reaching it from the inside with pliers or something to hold the female end from moving but there is a piece of metal blocking my way as well as inserts for the power steering bolts.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo344.jpg
Views:	56
Size:	362.5 KB
ID:	67410   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo343.jpg
Views:	66
Size:	379.5 KB
ID:	67411  

    Advertisement
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:06 PM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 2,761
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 90 Times in 85 Posts
It looks like you could get a sawzall blade in between there.

The other option might be to buy a cheap 9/16" open-end wrench and then bend or cut it in such a way that you could sneak it in there, slip it on the head of the bolt, then jam it up against the frame rail?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:16 PM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
It looks like you could get a sawzall blade in between there.

The other option might be to buy a cheap 9/16" open-end wrench and then bend or cut it in such a way that you could sneak it in there, slip it on the head of the bolt, then jam it up against the frame rail?
If I saw it off then how am I gonna put it back together when there is still half a bolt inside the hole? Also how am I gonna use a 9/16 wrench when the bolt head is one of those that require the use of an allen key or hex socket. Also the inside that you tell me to reach is not a nut. It is an insert with threads to accept the bolt. A wrench will not work on any of this.

The bolt head looks like this pic.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	titahexsocket.jpg
Views:	64
Size:	22.1 KB
ID:	67416  

Last edited by rusthater89; 08-14-2012 at 07:28 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:22 PM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I do not know the correct terminology so pardon any confusion.

The red lines point to the power steering bolts. They have these inserts that run through the frame. There is also a metal plate in that area that also hinders any access to the inner part of the bolt. The yellow line points to the "insert" or "nut" of the bolt that I am trying to remove. When I try to turn the bolt counter clockwise(as in tryna remove it) The "insert" that the bolt threads into turns counter clockwise with the bolt hence my problem with the bolt not coming out. the blue line is of course the bolt.

I basically need a way to keep the insert that the bolt threads into from moving so I can undo the bolt.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo343.jpg
Views:	53
Size:	314.9 KB
ID:	67417  

Last edited by rusthater89; 08-14-2012 at 07:30 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:45 PM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
I pulled out my stick welder and just welded the darn insert in place. I also did it for another one that was having the same issue.

Does anyone know what this piece of bent up metal is? It was attached to the passenger side, rear part of the frame.

Is there any other way to remove this fuel line hose without cutting it or using a hook tool?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo345.jpg
Views:	45
Size:	378.0 KB
ID:	67444   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo349.jpg
Views:	49
Size:	332.5 KB
ID:	67445   Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo350.jpg
Views:	52
Size:	317.9 KB
ID:	67446  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2012, 02:48 PM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
This is the other insert which was accesible from inside the frame. A long 6013 rod did the trick.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Photo347.jpg
Views:	47
Size:	356.7 KB
ID:	67447  
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2012, 07:04 PM
66GMC's Avatar
Get in, sit down, hang on
 

Last journal entry: Cab Removal
Last photo:
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Olds, Alberta Canada
Age: 56
Posts: 2,761
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 32
Thanked 90 Times in 85 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by rusthater89 View Post
If I saw it off then how am I gonna put it back together when there is still half a bolt inside the hole? Also how am I gonna use a 9/16 wrench when the bolt head is one of those that require the use of an allen key or hex socket. Also the inside that you tell me to reach is not a nut. It is an insert with threads to accept the bolt. A wrench will not work on any of this.

The bolt head looks like this pic.
Well, I did figure out / understand the "socket-head cap screw" part, but assumed there was a standard hex-nut on the backside ... and that is what I was suggesting could be held with a wrench.


I'm not 100% sure of the correct name of those insert-nuts, but I call them "riv-nuts" or "nut-serts". They are commonly used to hold mirrors on the side of a door, luggage-racks on a trunk lid, etc.


I gotta say that I have never seen them used on a cross-member. That is usually nut-and-bolt or rivet territory.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2012, 07:32 PM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC View Post
Well, I did figure out / understand the "socket-head cap screw" part, but assumed there was a standard hex-nut on the backside ... and that is what I was suggesting could be held with a wrench.


I'm not 100% sure of the correct name of those insert-nuts, but I call them "riv-nuts" or "nut-serts". They are commonly used to hold mirrors on the side of a door, luggage-racks on a trunk lid, etc.


I gotta say that I have never seen them used on a cross-member. That is usually nut-and-bolt or rivet territory.
Yea, I am lucky that I had the welder. I think I would've been screwed otherwise.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2012, 08:59 PM
MRTS33's Avatar
33 Pontiac 3W Sport Coupe
 
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Albany, NY
Posts: 117
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 1
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Someone must have striped out those holes and put the nut insert in there. Which is alright I guess. I would tach weld them in there though and chase the treads with a tap and use regular bolts with a dab of never siz on them. Don't know about that bent piece. Where did it come from? What are you tring to doing with th fuel line?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2012, 06:42 AM
rusthater89's Avatar
Registered User
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: new jersey
Posts: 208
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 4
Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MRTS33 View Post
Someone must have striped out those holes and put the nut insert in there. Which is alright I guess. I would tach weld them in there though and chase the treads with a tap and use regular bolts with a dab of never siz on them. Don't know about that bent piece. Where did it come from? What are you tring to doing with th fuel line?
Well as you saw I did use my stick welder to weld them in place. When I blast the frame It should clean out the inserts.

The bent piece was bolted to the back of the sub frame on the passenger side.

I want the fuel line removed. If you noticed from the pics my frame is bare. I need to remove it from the body to sand blast. This Trans Am is gonna be restored.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-16-2012, 09:43 AM
boothboy's Avatar
More bucks, go faster!
 
Last photo:
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Grass Valley, CA.
Posts: 581
Wiki Edits: 0

Thanks: 141
Thanked 244 Times in 219 Posts
The retaining nut you refer to are indeed "riv nuts" (actually rivet nuts) and they basically work like a pop rivet. The tightening of the bolt expands the rivet nut in the hole to hold it tight. They are used in a blind hole (no access to the back side of the structural material). The easiest way to remove a stuck bolt from a riv nut is to apply continuous upward pressure between the attached item and the base it's attached to. A cold chisel or screwdriver usually works. Then spin the bolt off with a impact wrench. One of two things usually happens. Either the bolt come out or you pull the riv nut completely from the hole. It really doesn't matter because the parts off. The trick is how fast the impact turns the bolt.
BB
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message

Recent Suspension - Brakes - Steering posts with photos

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Hot Rod Forum : Hotrodders Bulletin Board forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name (usually not your first and last name), your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Fixing loose GM steering column - what bolt torque? 75gmck25 Suspension - Brakes - Steering 1 02-05-2012 10:04 AM
Question about loose axle in Chevy 12 bolt rear end heyjude076 Transmission - Rearend 5 07-09-2010 10:05 PM
the bolt won't budge! lovelylady Electrical 5 10-17-2003 09:17 PM
Heck! I need help too darn it? 4 Jaw Chuck Hotrodders' Lounge 15 03-06-2003 11:59 AM
darn points rustyrazer Hotrodders' Lounge 14 12-24-2002 09:47 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:05 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2
Copyright Hotrodders.com 1999 - 2012. All Rights Reserved.