[wolfganggardner]

Have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with the instrument panel gauges all not working. A 30 amp fuse located in the interior compartment panel continues to blow instantly when replaced.

Kent

[eloc431962]

Originally Posted by wolfganggardner

Have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport with the instrument panel gauges all not working. A 30 amp fuse located in the interior compartment panel continues to blow instantly when replaced.

Kent

Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere.JMO



Cole

[eloc431962]

I was just thinking i remember this happening before and it turned out to be a relay that was bad. Just can't remember the relay name off the top of my head. But there is a relay for the dash lights i do know that. Maybe someone else will come along and know what it's actually called.


Cole

[wolfganggardner]

Thanks for the great suggestions! I too think it is a short because of the fuse. However I will check all relays. One of them could be shorting out.
I will let you know what I find.

Thanks a lot!

Kent

[pepi]

30 amp for a dash sounds big, follow that 30 amp fuse see what is hanging off that, the dash might be just a secondary problem, not the root.

[wolfganggardner]

Ok, My first thought would be a window defroster circuit. I'll start with the relay. Thanks!!

[eloc431962]

It could lead down to a bad circut board also. But check all the other things first.IMHO


Cole

[T-bucket23]

There are several plugs that go to the dash. i would unplug as many as you can find to try to isolate the issue. I would pull the console and take a look for pinched wires. there are several that go into teh console for the lights, windows and airbag module.If the heater core has ever been done in that vehicle it requires just about the whole dash to be removed. Maybe something was pinched when it was re-assembled. I just did a heater core in one of those and it was no fun. I doubt it is a bad relay, I would be looking for a pinched wire.
There are 2 big plugs by the glove box and a couple to the left of teh steering column by the fuse box. These are teh main connections fo rthe whole dash. If you can locate a schematic, you can check for shorted wires with these connectors unplugged

[wolfganggardner]

Thanks for the info Chet and Cole!

I guess I need to get a schematic wiring diagram first. Then I can trace back from the fuse to the main connectors. I too think the most likely cause is a exposed wire to ground. I will let you know what I find out this weekend.

Thanks a lot,

Kent

[wolfganggardner]

Hi Guys,

The sort story: Dash now works.

The long version: Still have problem.

I bought a repair manual "AllDATA DIY". The manual provided great schematics and pictorials which showed the dash wiring going through the rear window defogger/wiper relay, like Cole thought. In checking further, I discovered that the rear wiper and defogger are not working. I replaced the 30 amp fuse and it did not blow this time (don't know why). Next I switched the horn and rear wiper relays - still didn't work. So, I rechecked the fuses and discovered I had mixed up the order of a blank spot and a live fuse spot. Surprise! the dash powered up.

I think in moving wires, parts, etc. something un-shorted and I didn't know it until the fuses were in their correct spots. I will next look at the rear defogger/wiper - circuits. I will let you know what I find out.


Thanks again,
Kent