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Old 08-13-2013, 10:07 PM
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dealing with pains of fresh repro weatherstripping

You all know what I'm talking about. Fresh, new reproduction weather stripping that suddenly doesn't make panels fit or close the way they should, or did when you had the car all lined up perfectly.

In my case specifically, on my 67 mustang coupe, I just installed the weather stripping on the underside of the deck lid. I set the deck lid on the car tonight and was really taken aback at how high it sits, especially along the rear window where the hinges are. It probably sits 1/2" high now because of the new weather stripping.

What are your tricks for dealing with this?
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Old 08-13-2013, 10:38 PM
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as I was reading it I thought, "I bet by the hinges" and then you said exactly that. What we do is take the new one or a mock up one and tape it down while doing panel fitment on decklids especially. Then you take the tape off carefully ASAP cause it can rip the weatherstripping really easily. Better to have mock up ones you can thrash around. On the old Chevy trucks you got that issue on the doors to the degree you are seeing on the decklid. Come to think of it, I just lined up a GTO judge decklid and forgot to look for the weatherstripping so I'll go throw it back on when no one's looking.

It will get a little better with time. If worse comes to worse you can slightly bend your hinges by hyper extending it with a small block of wood on top of the hinge and lower your striker a hair. You can probably shave them down a hair before installing but can't see that giving you much. Maybe someone has a better solution.
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Old 08-13-2013, 11:31 PM
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I have done just the opposite, instead of trying to smash the rubber down, I loosen up the striker and raise the lid. I leave it like that a few days then tighten it down, seems to always work out. I align the panels without the rubber then do as I just described, all the gaps are titty nice after a few days.

Brian
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Old 08-14-2013, 05:28 AM
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I did buy the rubber just for the mock up, but it goes on the underside of the lid. I had difficulty keeping it there without flopping all around so I laid it around the trunk jamb instead. Come to find out it doesn't lay in that trunk jamb valley at all but instead, on top of the lip around the opening of the trunk. I needed it for the mock up because otherwise the trunk would sit way too low in the valley and then it was impossible to tell if gaps were actually correct or not.

I set the lid on last night, and then just left it there. Just occurred to me that was actually probably a good idea so it can slowly flatten the weatherstripping over time. I guess maybe it is something I'll just have to gradually adjust farther down after installing the deck lid...
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:30 AM
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Be sure you have it installed properly. First off the repro isn't always exactly as original so you have a picture in your head of how it fits that could be a wrong. But really look at it well because they often fit kinda odd from where you think they would.

Brian
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by MARTINSR View Post
I have done just the opposite, instead of trying to smash the rubber down, I loosen up the striker and raise the lid. I leave it like that a few days then tighten it down, seems to always work out. I align the panels without the rubber then do as I just described, all the gaps are titty nice after a few days.

Brian
striker up to apply more force to the back?
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Old 08-14-2013, 01:34 PM
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If it doesn't go back fully hyper extend your hinges with a block of wood placed on top of the hinge arm and under the upper rear body panel. I call it bending the hinges but you're just bending the area it mounts to. It will solve the problem right then and there. Sometimes along the sides of the quarter, if you have them placed in the right area, sometimes you have to tweak the little lip on your quarter closest to the opening. Usually the case where the quarter meets the lower rear body panel and that flange is tied together with brass or boogers. Right in that area it's often sticking up and you have to roll it down sort of, obviously being mindful of keeping a full on seal as well.
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:15 PM
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Allow some time for the new weatherstrip to compress before you make any changes to the hinges.

Vince
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Old 08-14-2013, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tech69 View Post
striker up to apply more force to the back?
No, not at all. Simply raise the striker (on the trunk, on the door it would be move it out) so that the lid doesn't shut all the way. Leave it like that a few days then move it down, you may need to do it a few times moving it tighter and tighter. But nothing else made any sense to me. The way I look at it the rubber isn't suppose to make me align the panel different. I want to align the panel without any forces against it, align it without the rubber. Then install the rubber and make the rubber do what you want it to do, loosen up the striker so you "train" the rubber.

Been doing it that way for years and like I say my doors and trunk fit perfectly without slamming them. Now, sure you did when the rubber was just installed, hell even with the striker out holding the trunk up a quarter inch or more, or the door out a quarter inch the suckers still shut like the rubber was made out of steel. But after days, sometimes weeks, the I was able to move the striker in a little at a time until the panels open and close as they should and fit well.

Brian
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28 View Post
Allow some time for the new weatherstrip to compress before you make any changes to the hinges.

Vince
EXACTLY and if anything shim it so you aren't bending the hinges, the hinges that were just fine before the rubber was installed! You could do the same thing as moving the striker. If you needed to move that area in particular, shim it then remove the shim after it sets "training" the new rubber to be a good boy.

Brian
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Old 08-14-2013, 06:47 PM
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yeah the last thing I want to do is mess up the hinges. They are expensive to replace. I'll just have to give the rubber time to settle. It's installed correctly.
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Old 08-14-2013, 10:41 PM
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I have to say it can take many weeks before it is normal. It will still have a little "pop" when you hit the button on the handle of the door. But it will eventually work just like normal.

Brian
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Old 08-14-2013, 10:47 PM
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it doesn't bend the hinges, it bends where it mounts to. It's perfectly normal to do so and if you didn't man handle your car to line up panels it won't look good. We also like to wait but you don't always have that option in a shop and it doesn't always rest flush after a while so you HAVE to bend the hinges(again, not really bending the hinges). The only issue with my way is at first it closes tight but with the decklid closed it will be easier to close after a couple weeks and then you raise the striker a hair. If I did it Martin's way in a shop I wouldn't have time to do the other things I take pride in. As a tech you are NEVER given enough time unless it's a rare 200k car so you have to choose wisely.

Give it time and if it doesn't work then do that to the hinges, which I bet you'll have to do anyways.

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Old 08-14-2013, 11:04 PM
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Henry, I have been doing it this way for years, including on customers cars. There's the thing, you are going to be putting this car together for many days or even weeks. So you do the seals as soon as you can, leave the strikers a little loose as I described and go about your assembly, doing the bumpers and lights and such, they are usually pretty big builds. And watch the panel fit and such as you are going, it has worked well for me.


Brian
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Old 08-14-2013, 11:21 PM
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sure, I think he should wait( he has the time) but I'm saying if it doesn't go all the way back flush there's a solution. I have done the waiting thing and it doesn't always work especially with old Chevy truck doors.

So next time I will hold off the hinge part but just roll the quarter channel flange where needed, as it can chip being in paint. The hinge will be fine with a shop towel around a block of wood. I'll try it out, just for you, but I must say, when it does relax by doing it the way we do it, it doesn't sink it down with the rubber and after it compresses it closes fine. Just a different way to go about it I suppose but I will try it.

Last edited by tech69; 08-14-2013 at 11:36 PM.
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