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View Poll Results: Push or Pull?
Push on the wrench and risk busting knuckles. 2 7.41%
Pull on the wrench and risk a self served knuckle sandwich. 22 81.48%
Sit and pout, since there's no impact wrench around and no wd40/pb blaster around either. 3 11.11%
Voters: 27. You may not vote on this poll

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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 05:55 AM
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Just about every time I have busted knuckles it's been while pushing. I vote for pulling.

Vince

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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 06:35 AM
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A l-o-o-o-n-g time ago, I was in the army as a vehicle mechanic and instructor. By the manual, you always pull on the wrench, that is unless there is no other option. We did everything from Jeeps to tanks and tank retrievers. (I wonder how I could explain to my Capt. how I got the two 2" long scars on my left arm and the 1" diameter scar on my right arm and why, when I get a tan, my knuckles have all these raised white marks )

Have you ever been lying under a vehicle, pulling on a breaker bar while using your feet braced against the frame and have the socket either break or slip off? And do a 180 pound full swing at the jewels?

Dave
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 10:34 AM
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Guess I'm the oddball here, I'll push - reasons being I'm a fairly lightweight guy so I can get more force by pushing (vs. lifting myself up while pulling), and the last time I pulled on a bolt, the breaker bar slipped and I split my eyebrow wide open - took 15 or 20 minutes to get the blood flow to stop. And the time before that, I had lifted myself off the ground when the wrench decided to slip - slammed my elbow into the concrete floor (yea, you don't what to experience *that* kind of pain - trust me on this).

Course I will gauge the probability of blood loss when pushing or pulling and adjust my techniques accordingly . . .
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:02 PM
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depends on the position I'm in but i usually pull rather then push, I'd rather fall on my arse then my face when Murphy's law kicks in
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 10-02-2007, 09:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SLR_65
Ah Hyundais . . . been there, done that! I have a '94 Hyundai Excel for a work car and I gotta admit I just love the little booger -> it's about as basic as a car gets, power steering, a/c, etc. weren't even options! Basically the Korean model T! If you go to their website they even let ya download the factory service manual in Adobe pdf format which is great 'cause you can print a page and take it out to the garage with ya and you don't have to worry about getting it greasy and stuff. It's been rock solid reliable, the only real problem has been a timing belt tensioner that let go at 50,000 - fortunately it didn't jump time as it's an interference engine.

Anyway, I couldn't get the nut on the dampener to break loose for love nor money! I finally went down and talked to the local Hyundai mechanic and he kinda chuckled and was nice enough to loan me a SnapOn air impact. He said that was an issue on those years of cars . . . it seems that the guy on the assembly line that put that nut on also put another one on, the top of the strut I believe, anyway the one nut needed a gazillion foot pounds more than the crank nut did but to do two different torque's he'd have to change tools and that was evidently too difficult so he'd just use the high torque tool on every nut of that size!!! Misnerablesonofa . . .
1994 Elantra......When I got it the transmission was bad and wouldnt start at last which I knew....plugs were bad....new plugs ...fired right up purred like a kitten Changed the oil due to cylender was from cranking with bad plugs...ran it for a little bit incase it had any trouble codes so I could get them to show up....well we found out theat we didnt have an adapter to fit the diagnostics port(Auto Tech at the votech) so I drove around in a circle for 15 minuites for absolutely no reason. Stareted it up and let it idle etc making sure it worked fine before buying a transmission.I go in one day and Fire it up....billows white smoke..(I didnt overheat it while idling or anyother time for that matter)just fired it up one day and it popped the headgasket.So off comes the head. timing belt rips while removing head have the head checked just in case ..comes back fine no warps or anything.so out comes the engine.new belt new gasket,time it according to mitchel software drop it in....nothing....remove ingine a couple more times(engine and trans in and out twice in about 5 hours of class time).....still nothing......take it home at the end of the year...try to sell it (very cheap)...no takers......take engine out put new tensioner on put it back in runs ok ..........go get transmission ....stop an hour down the road to make sure it hasn't moved.See that the bellhousing is cracked...spiderwebbed actually...get back to the junkyard about 5 minuites before they close. stop by a liibrary and find another transmission about 100 miles away,stay the night in meadville pa, get the other transmission the next day and bring it back. try to install new filter but it wont clear the pan .....I wore out the front and rear engine mounts from taking it in and out so much...honestly I did....I learned my lesson It may run forever now that I have got it fixed ....moral of the story dont work on imports ...lesson learned.....rant off
So is your mastercylinder on the pass side....ooh yeah forgot about the alternator belts....my fault........and the air big controller going bad for no reason...carpart.com was my friend on this one.
Shane

Quote:
Originally Posted by TailGater
depends on the position I'm in but i usually pull rather then push, I'd rather fall on my arse then my face when Murphy's law kicks in
1/2 inch shank (3/4 head) bolt tightening with a wrench...snap ....I went rolling across the pavement...saw that ol truck thisevening
Shane
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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 05:25 AM
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I try to pull whenever I can, In that undercar situation.. I'd most definitly pull, using my legs instead of my weak little arms. Haven't (luckily) gotten a breaker bar to the crotch.
Pushing seems to always lead to raw bloody knuckles..

This past winter I was working on the girlfriends car (seems to be all I do these days), anyway was pushin' on something with a breaker bar, and right on cue the socket slip and I punched the concrete floor..
Luckily I couldn't feel anything because it was 20 out, but my hand looked light a boxing glove after that.
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Old 10-03-2007, 03:26 PM
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my vote...........

i vote for the hot wrench,if its that tight its probably going to break anyhow,so im just helping it along....
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 06:45 PM
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my dad knocked himself out, pulling a tranny crossmember bolt on an old Fury had at the time. bolt broke loose, breaker bar met his forhead


Me, I push and pull. a tight bolt, might loosen if you tighten it first. worked many times for me
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 07:00 PM
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Good topic,I voted for pull,easier to maintain balance,but depends on situations also....If I push it's very carefully trying to feel the torque or twist of the bolt,or the feeling its gonna slip off......
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Old 10-03-2007, 07:43 PM
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I had a 9/16" socket on the end of a johnson bar and couldn't get a bolt to budge at all. (Yes I was thinking it might hurt when it did break.)

I didn't have a snipe handy ... so I though I was being clever ... I laid on the floor and pushed with my foot.

Suh-nap! and I had blood running into my eyes!
The socket had snapped, sending schrapnel flying ... which nailed me in the forehead. I guess I was lucky ... it could have been an eye.

Anyway ...
Peed me right off ... so I went and got the hot-wrench!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 10:07 PM
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Well I was working on a nice 63 Chev Impala installing a 12 bolt rear end. I was sitting on a short mech stool by the wheel well. I had all but one of the old suspension bolts out. That one would not budge. So I get the hot wrench and cut thru it. Well the rear end dropped but hung up on the brake lines that I forgot to remove. One of the wheel studs snagged my cheek and ripped it open and knocked me off the stool. With blood flying I quickly turned and grabbed the closest thing, a 5 pound ball pein. I was PO'd and now hurt. I let fly right at the side of that shinny white Impala and scored a solid home run right on rib that runs down the side of the fender.

15 stiches later I got my first lesson in body work. at no charge and no flat rate.
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Old 10-03-2007, 11:02 PM
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you havn't earned it till you bleed on it!!

In this case if theres room i put a box wrench on it a little oil take a hammer & beat the living hell out of wrench with the hammer it works every time just make sure you hit the wrench and not your hand because that meat between the thumb & index just dosn't like it much (its never funny) & hurts like hell!!
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2007, 11:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 302 Z28
Just about every time I have busted knuckles it's been while pushing. I vote for pulling.

Vince
Since the "8n oil change scar" I'll ditto those words.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Irelands child
Have you ever been lying under a vehicle, pulling on a breaker bar while using your feet braced against the frame and have the socket either break or slip off? And do a 180 pound full swing at the jewels?

Dave
I have no interest in doing something like that. Thanks for the idea though... so where's that pesky neighbor kid I could 'set up' a situation like that for?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 10-04-2007, 07:00 AM
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I try to use impact sockets with a long pipe on the end of a 1/2" breaker bar handle. The leverage gives more control.
If using an open end I put some valve lapping compound on the wrench or use Vise Grips.
I always prefer to pull. I'm a small (5' 8" 190 lb) 50 year old gorilla and can usually muscle anything off.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 10-05-2007, 09:10 AM
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What are mechanics gloves? Scarred, gnarled, twisted arthritic fingers are the badge of an old time mechanic. Diesel fuel stops bleeding pretty well. In a pinch, super glue will close and seal a wound too. Buncha wimps!
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