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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 09:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by machine shop tom
I agree about the cam tunnels. I have some cutters that I made from old cams that I use on those blocks that have cam bearins out-of-line enough to make the cam turn hard or impossible to install. Beats sanding the bearings to make the cam fit.

It's always fun to explain the "not perfect from the factory" thing to a customer that can't get his cam in (sometimes they won't wait for me to check the cam fit).

tom
We see cam alignment problems on 1 in 35 blocks and its common practice to trial fit a set of bearing after the block is cleaned. We had one a few weeks that had to .020 over tho get the cam tunnel where it was suppost to be.


You now the story that GM rough bores the cam tunnel and is line bored to spec with the cam bearings installed.

Try to buy a new 010 type block with out cam bearings as thay all come with bearings installed, And when removed stand them up on a flat surface and the will most of the time roll to the heavy side. HMMMMMMMMM

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-16-2008, 10:18 PM
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Tom, put down your bearings and slowly back away. As I've said before, this guy is never wrong.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by MI2600
Tom, put down your bearings and slowly back away. As I've said before, this guy is never wrong.
What's your problem, I see you seem to be a KNOW-ALL-IGEST LOL. What research have you done on whats the best cam bearings out there we have seen the results of using babbit bearings over aluminum bearings and I work with a lot of other shops out there that seem to have the same opinion so we all can't be wrong.

I did a lot of home on this issue over the years and like I said Durabonds are good bearings as if your read my post I use them as well and do you have a problem with that.

Again whats the best cam bearing out there. WAITING
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:50 AM
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This junk belongs in the Dump, anything for free advertising.
This guy reminds me of that autopart joker.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD80
This junk belongs in the Dump, anything for free advertising.
This guy reminds me of that autopart joker.
what am I am advertising cam bearings, Come on get a life!!!!!!!!!!
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:54 AM
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Originally Posted by 1BAD80
This junk belongs in the Dump, anything for free advertising.
This guy reminds me of that autopart joker.
I saw your pic in your profile and its just what I expected LOL
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:56 AM
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How would you like to be one of his customers? Always argumentative.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 07:56 AM
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If I had to explain you would never understand.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 08:01 AM
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Originally Posted by MI2600
How would you like to be one of his customers? Always argumentative.
Why would a customer argue with me if we are building there engine, If they knew how to build it they wouldn't be at my shop. If it was easy women and children and you would be doing it LOL
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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 08:27 AM
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by CNC BLOCKS N/E
I saw your pic in your profile and its just what I expected LOL
Careful there, Rocky, Bullwinkle sent me a few of you and they ain't pretty........

tom
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 09:57 AM
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Can anyone tell me what normal interference between the cam bearings and block is supposed to be?

When you install cam bearings do you line up the oil holes directly or just let the groove do its' thing.

What do you run for clearance between the cam journals and bearings for...
1. a race motor with 5w30 and high pressure pump 254 dur @ .050 .510 lift
2. a street motor with 10w30 and stock pump 212 dur @ .050 .450 lift
3. a street strip motor 10w30 with high volume high pressure 230 dur .488 lift

all hydraulic cams.

THanks
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 10:01 AM
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WOW! Funny stuff here.

Lemme think.

Cam bearings, I think Carl means the bi-metal bearings, or perhaps the 'old style' hi-po ones.

I think Tom is about 250 miles from me. I think too, with all of the machine shops in my area that I wouldn't have to look for a 'particular kind of guy' given the eons of massed experience in these shops. However, I have had things come back from 'reputable' shops that I would have been better off leaving as was. It only takes one time for me and, lesson learned I, and many here, appreciate both MST and CNC input and posts. I personally don't know that one bearing is 'better' than another. If I was overly concerned about a better bearing I would probably buy something from Calico or another mfr that was coated - which is a bit more than seven bucks. I'd have to agree the bi-metal bearings are probably the strongest given their makeup and they are what I installed on my personal stroker sbc. To me, cam bearings are CHEAP (as in inexpensive). I have never experienced a cam bearing failure on any motor I have ever assembled, and every single one of them gets new cam brngs if I'm into the motor, regardless. All kinds of motors, all kinds of cams and spring pressures. The way I see it, if you are comfortable with what works, or has worked, use it. $7 is the cost of a quart of oil, why skimp? Or, for what reason would an 'above std' quality bearing make anything better? It all comes down to what you prefer, choose, and back up. I don't think any engine builder wants a failure of any kind. Me? I'm scared of things like that and go the extra miles to C-M-A. Check check check, and very clean. If all else is good in the build, I wouldn't hesitate to use any cam bearing for the application.




Okay guys, no more snibbling. This thread is not a waste by any means. It could be described as a pissing match, but then, there are things here that many just aren't aware of. That said, each and every builder/assembler/shop owner/individual can have their own opinion as to what is better. I personally think any of the bearings described in this entire thread is worth using. If you use one type and it fails please post that information.

One more thing, the cam journal is supposed to ride on a hydrodynamic oil wedge, not the bearing. If this is not happening, I don't think it makes one bit of difference as to what type bearing is used, although the coated bearing will probably last longest, then the bi-metal, then babbit. JMO

Last edited by Jmark; 03-17-2008 at 01:26 PM. Reason: Other.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 10:28 AM
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Later, mikey
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 11:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by machine shop tom
Careful there, Rocky, Bullwinkle sent me a few of you and they ain't pretty........

tom
I hear that LOL
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