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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 03-17-2008, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Double_v23
Can anyone tell me what normal interference between the cam bearings and block is supposed to be?

When you install cam bearings do you line up the oil holes directly or just let the groove do its' thing.

What do you run for clearance between the cam journals and bearings for...
1. a race motor with 5w30 and high pressure pump 254 dur @ .050 .510 lift
2. a street motor with 10w30 and stock pump 212 dur @ .050 .450 lift
3. a street strip motor 10w30 with high volume high pressure 230 dur .488 lift

all hydraulic cams.

Depending on the journal diameters as most have a differance of .002 from low to high avaerage press is .004 to .006

On the bearing we put in we install at 3:30 O'clock and the ACL's we use are a split bearing and with the split at 12:00 the holes end up at appox. 3:30

Take the time to measure the jouranls of a block as it can be scary on some blocks as we find alot of taper and over size jounals in alot of them, Thats why bearing sometimes show alot of wear only on one side and not the other.

As far as oil clearance your mains and rods and lifter bore clearance will play a big part of what weight oil to run. And a oil with plenty of zinc and phosephate would be a good choice.

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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 03-18-2008, 11:03 AM
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H,mmmm In all my years of buying stuff I have always had good luck with the well known name brands of parts and materials..To me HP often means High Price and those pieces are not in reality any better than the good name brand parts. the main thing I have found is doing a good job of installation of said part or piece is what is needed..

Main thing on an engine is to get the block properly machined I have found as no bearing will live real well if the journals are out of line or otherwise messed up in some way..

Story about that as we had a tractor that had no power and would not pull and gave us all kinds of fits..Hated that thing and even replaced the cam and Did some other things in an effort to get it to run right as it always seemed to be straining even at an idle..Finally we hooked up with a machinist who knew his stuff.He took the engine apat and found that the block was somehow mis machined at the factory..we had him remachine the block..line bore and all the proper block prep..when it was reassembled and installed it was like a whole different tractor..Lesson learned.find someone who knows what he is doing to machine your blocks and cranks and it will work out just fine..

Just my take

I have tried most all of it and now do what is known to work..
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