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Old 11-16-2005, 08:34 AM
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Decisions... Looking for direction

I have search and read through the many compressor threads. Can we this horse one more time?

I have a newly built garage (23' x 16'), I just mounted my compressor to the floor. With the size of my garage I'm trying to install two Outlets, one on either side of the garage. one for tools and the other for paint and blasting.

The attached pic's, shows what I have in mind, but from reading too many bends in the hard lines "Not a good thing". Can I replace the bends with a 40' refrigerant copper coil? http://www.plumbingmart.com/coppertubing.html But no mention of how much pressure it can handle. (120 PSI MAX is what I need)

I am planning on having three drain valves put in, one right off the compressor, the other two before the outlets.

A desiccant air dryer that I have in mind is similar to "A Drive Shaft" idear that I read in one post. It is filled with silica pellets to absorb any water / vapors that make it that far. I am trying to have the last outlet at least 50' away from the compressor.
http://www.princessauto.com/moreinfo...33819&SCAN=CAN

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.
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Last edited by 58Chev; 11-16-2005 at 08:44 AM. Reason: To fix the link
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:27 AM
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58, I would think the desiccant media would be useless after it becomes saturated. If you are planing on using 50 ft of copper pipe between the water separator and compressor tank then I see no problem at all since copper is an excellent dissipater of the heat. Just make sure you have the water that collects in the pipe before the separator draining back toward the compressor and into a collection "drop"(drip leg) equipped with a drain. The "drive shaft idea" would not be needed in this case since the copper pipe should provide all the cooling necessary and with proper routing you should not have water problems using just it and the water separators.
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Old 11-16-2005, 09:36 AM
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ThanX oldred,

I plan to have a drip leg just beyond the flex hose coming off the compressor.

The one thing I get confused on is one article mentions drain away from the compressor and other say to drain towards the compressor.
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Old 11-16-2005, 10:42 AM
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Oh yeah, when I was first searching info on air lines, I decided to go to the compressor tank, but after more info it seems the more common way to go is away. I chose one source to follow, Sharpe's recent diagrams go away, and I figure its easier to manage air/water going with the flow. hth

I could be wrong like I usually am

Last edited by Danny G.; 11-16-2005 at 10:48 AM.
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:12 PM
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It really does not matter which direction it drains as long as it does not have a low spot in the line without a "drop" for the water to collect in. Water drains into these "drops" and collects there undisturbed until drained since air flows past the "drops" but not through them. If you have a low spot in the line it self without a "drop" it will collect water until it reaches a point where it begins to restrict the air flow and then it will be picked up and flushed out by the air flow. This usually happens suddenly and without warning and can cause the air line to discharge a large quantity of water all at once
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:28 PM
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I have the same size garage. What I did was use copper, out of the compressor, to a T that goes down to a ball valve on the floor, has a filter dryer straight out, and the other open side goes up to the ceiling. The pipe runs along the ceiling at an angle towards the middle of the pipe run, where another T is installed, with a 14" section pointing down, also with a ball valve. It continues to the other wall, down the wall, to...you guessed it, another T, set up like the first, ball valve next to the floor, and filter/dryer coming out.
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Old 11-16-2005, 12:40 PM
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Fat, The idea is to have water that collects in droplets on the pipe walls drain into a collecting reservoir of some type and it should never be allowed to drain into the pipe leading into the separator or the separator itself. The separator should be used only to remove water that is in the air as a mist that is why it has to be located away from the tank so the air can cool and condense the water vapor before it enters the separator.
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Old 11-16-2005, 01:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
Fat, The idea is to have water that collects in droplets on the pipe walls drain into a collecting reservoir of some type and it should never be allowed to drain into the pipe leading into the separator or the separator itself. The separator should be used only to remove water that is in the air as a mist that is why it has to be located away from the tank so the air can cool and condense the water vapor before it enters the separator.
Maybe these pics can help describe what oldreds talking about:
My first drop with a "drip leg" 4 ft before, I followed what TP Tools was doing with there drop setups, and did a very similar setup on the bottom page of http://www.oldsmobility.com/air-compressor-piping.htm

My first drop about 35 ft away, 40 when it hits the F88, eventually will be a prep station.


My 2nd drop with a "drip leg" 5 ft after, later will be for paint only, hopefully with a nice Sharpe Dryair Desicant filter with a retractable hose this time.

Last edited by Danny G.; 11-18-2005 at 09:49 AM. Reason: spelling
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Old 11-16-2005, 01:36 PM
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Great info... Question though?

Should I stick with straight pipe as in the first mock-up picture? or Use a coil as in the new attachment?

This scenario will make the last output at least 75' to use for paint/blasting.

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Old 11-16-2005, 01:43 PM
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58, I have to admit that except for the thumbs I did not look at your pics until now (I was pinched for time,dial-up connection) ,sorry about that. Anyway I would recommend you forget the zig-zag and just run straight pipe since you appear to have enough room. You really need to slope that section near the ceiling back toward the compressor and on you first take-off you should come out the top of that ceiling pipe and up at least a coupe of inches then loop it back down. Just make sure that no water drains directly into the separator.
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Old 11-16-2005, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldred
58, I have to admit that except for the thumbs I did not look at your pics until now (I was pinched for time,dial-up connection) ,sorry about that. Anyway I would recommend you forget the zig-zag and just run straight pipe since you appear to have enough room. You really need to slope that section near the ceiling back toward the compressor and on you first take-off you should come out the top of that ceiling pipe and up at least a coupe of inches then loop it back down. Just make sure that no water drains directly into the separator.
OK, Ditch the maze and go straight.
I've been keeping every pick I can find off the net for idears.
I do beleive that what you are saying is the same as this pic?

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Old 11-16-2005, 02:42 PM
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Yep, that'al work
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Old 11-16-2005, 04:04 PM
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58 Chev,

Just to add more food for thought to your project. If you have room above (which I think you do, judging by that trap door in the ceiling), why not go through the ceiling to the top of the peak and run the ridge before you come back down to your ceiling lines and put a down leg to a drain at the bottom of that. I always understood that the first outlet should be no closer than 25 feet from the compressor outlet. The compressor makes 'heated' air. Heated air will absorb more moisture and the moisture will fall out of the air when it is cooled and condenses on the inner surface of the piping which is cooled by the air around it. You should have good ventialation in your attic that would cool the piping and condense the air within it, consequently dropping any moisture in the the downward leg and allowing it to collect in the drain leg and be drained off. Any tees should be at least 2 feet above the water in the drain leg. And last but not least, DRAIN YOUR TANK DAILY!!
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Old 11-16-2005, 08:06 PM
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Building a 10 footer.
 

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ThanX oldred.

alittle1,
I understand what your saying about going up into the attic but come summer time it can get very hot and humid up there. The garage is fully insulated 6" studs, in the heat of summer it is at least 10*-15* cooler inside than up in the attic.

And yes I know about draining daily.
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