[julioDBS]

Does anyone know the difference between the Deltron 2000 DBC line
and the DBU line ?
pros and cons of either?

I will be painting a custom steel and Fiberglass hood that is primed with a final coat of slightly reduced grey SPI epoxy, the color will be a metallic silver (PS2), a stock color for a newer dodge truck. Over that will be SPI Universal clear.
I will be using my SPI reducers and activators with the PPG Deltron base. I'm trying to keep life simple..

[milo]

The DBU takes a reactive reducer...unused paint can not be returned to the can..

The DBC uses the same DT reducer you would use in your clear and can be returned to the can..

DBU is easier to work with and does not upset most surfaces since it uses that special reducer

DBC can get closer matches since some toners for DBU are being phased out.

Both have their upsides..

Given a choice with the project as you have explained... DBU would be the safest call

[julioDBS]

Is this reactive reducer for the DBU a special product by deltron, meaning I cannot use my SPI reducer in this product?
The DBC allows me to use my SPI reducer I've been told, therefore my primers and clears will all be using the same reducers, and the clear activator will work in the base also..compatibility should be real good.
I never use PPG before, here in my short painting history.

[milo]

Originally Posted by julioDBS

Is this reactive reducer for the DBU a special product by deltron, meaning I cannot use my SPI reducer in this product?
The DBC allows me to use my SPI reducer I've been told, therefore my primers and clears will all be using the same reducers, and the clear activator will work in the base also..compatibility should be real good.
I never use PPG before, here in my short painting history.

You are correct, you must use the DRR reducer in the DBU.

Think of DBU as a 2 part paint that cures in 20 minutes and can be nursed along in the worse of conditions and isn't as prone to lifting and problems from contacting different substrates..

[baddbob]

And the shelf life of that DRR reducer really sucks. I would use DBC, Global, or Nexa and any of them will go over SPI epoxy just fine. I haven't found any products that aren't compatible with SPI epoxy other than acid primers.

[julioDBS]

Thanks for the responses !
Looks to be a go for the DBC then.
Can I ask what you mean "you can nurse the paint along" when you referred to the DBU product ?? is this paint forgiving to the point of - if I kinda ghosted or zebra striped an area, I could hit it again then set down the gun for the flash time to the next coat. ??

[milo]

Originally Posted by julioDBS

Thanks for the responses !
Looks to be a go for the DBC then.
Can I ask what you mean "you can nurse the paint along" when you referred to the DBU product ?? is this paint forgiving to the point of - if I kinda ghosted or zebra striped an area, I could hit it again then set down the gun for the flash time to the next coat. ??

Yes, it is more forgiving even with "it's self" , if there are problems and you feel you should make adjustments etc..

There is an additive DX57 that will make DBC act like DBU in the sence of those pesky sand throughs and "unknowns" that ARE going to happen from time to time for sure..

It is why I thought to recommend it of the 2 choices .

Here's search result for the DX57
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&r...57&btnG=Search

and

Ppg Expert Needed . Help!

[julioDBS]

I have clearcoat activator from SPI that I can and will use in the DBC. (It is compatible with it)
I did some Googleing after your last response Milo, and I can see that with the addition of the activator, the DBC will act like the DBU.
Thanks for pointing that out.
I now have reasoning for the act !