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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 06-24-2006, 10:49 PM
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s10

hey does anyone know the width of the s10 frame where the cab is? Im trying to put the fiberglass tbucket shell over the frame. Seems though the frame wouldnt work. Any info thanx!

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2006, 01:56 PM
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I Know that several folks will wack me for this question. But "WHY" would you want to put a T bucket body on an S-10 frame.

I don't want to rain on someones parade but if you are going to build a T Bucket, build a T bucket and not somthing that is scabbed on a frame where it will end up butt ugly and a laughing stock any where you show up.

I am not trying to be a smart A** here but attempting to help keep someone from making what I belive to be a major mistake.

You don't have to spend a lot of money to have a presentable T bucket Chassis that is a "real" T bucket chassis.

One 20 ft stick of 2x4 steel tubing
2 ft of 3 in steel tube/ structural pipe (not water pipe)
10 ft of 1x3 steel tubing (center Cross members)
a few pieces of flat plate of various thickness (sometimes by the pound at a scrap dealer)

A front axle of your choice ( there is a guy up in this area who has built several radical T buckets using front axles from early 50's pickups with batwings/spring purchases bolted to the original u bolt holes. a clean set up that is not expensive and gets the front end low.
A rear axle of your chose, (matching the engine and trans preferrably)



All of the steel tubing that you would need for a T frame will cost less than 100.00 even at todays inflated prices. If you can't weld you can cut the frame out and take the parts to a welding shop.

I would still recomend mocking up a frame with 2x4 lumber. you don't even need new boards, cut, fit, measure and stand back and look. When it looks like it is supposed to buy the steel tubing and cut it to the measurements and angles. I think I used 60 degree angles to make the kickup for my last T but that was 35 years ago. The idea is to have the rails behind the kick up parallel to the rails in front. Make sure when you cut the side rails out that the weld seam goes to the inside of the frame.

If you arn't up to that look in the back of most rod magazines and find the Maas Racing adds. they sell decent stuff for a reasonable price. they are a bit slow to deliver though since they don't usually make the part untill they get the order.

I see way too many posts on this thread that lean more to building a brush buggy than a street rod. An S-10 frame with an early body sitting on it would be great for running around in the back woods but the first time someone shows up at a car event it will be treated as a big joke.
S-!0 frame under a 40 somthing truck cab with fenders and sitting low to the ground, kewl, but fenderless, no.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 06-25-2006, 08:41 PM
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Some shoddy pictures...

I started looking at Cboy's project jorunal, and noticed that the stock F-150 frame dosn't look all too different than a traditional frame. Alot longer, a little rougher, but its not that bad for a low-budget starting point. So i took a few minutes of my time on MS-paint and cut up some of his pictures to get an idea of what it would look like with a little bit of engine setback.


^Above!^
Probably the best out of all of them. I know the quality is pretty shoddy. But its a MS-paint hack-job late at night. And their blurry on purpose, not to hide the quality, but so they load faster. And their just "sketches" anyway


^Above!^
This one got a little carried away, but the idea is still there. The engine kind of looks a little off-center, and funny, but its not too bad. I also cut a huge body mount off in both of these pictures. When I did, I hacked up some of the twin-I beam, so i kind of cobbled it back together.


^Above!^
The first one I made, and the last one on the list, the best out of them too. The engine set back isn't as much as the other picture is, but is a little more than the first one. Its a different view also. These frame's don't look all that bad really. And you wouldn't have to mess with suspension geometry, and still have a decent-ish (Maybe work on those coil-springs) front end, and independant suspension. I would cut the frame down a little bit to a different length, unless your building a fenderless school-bus or something. Or a C-cab flatbed...which would be pretty interesting...


-GF

Last edited by Good Frosty; 06-27-2006 at 02:43 AM. Reason: Revived and reused a post that only said one word, with something kind of usefull
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2006, 01:03 PM
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I went with a scratch built frame and a mustang II front-end. I don't think it looks too bad.

Frame after cutting welding and painting - Mustang II frontend. Bought a MII out of a guy's backyard for $25 aired up the tires and drug it home.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...f/f0fc9884.jpg

Another view of the frame -

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...4/f0fc9af0.jpg

MII frontend

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...5/f0fc9316.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...2/f0fc9741.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7/f0fc9533.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...b/f0fcaeef.jpg

351W out of a 79 Econoline van - manifolds on backwards just to crank it until the headers were built

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...3/f0fca568.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...7/f0fcadc7.jpg

Auto Meter gauges - spent way too much on these things.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/f0fc97f3.jpg

Headers on and fan shroud built - painful.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...8/f0fcaa9f.jpg

Small piece of plywood painted green = heatshield. We pretty much tried to sling everything off but only managed to knock a small hole in the gas tank.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...0/f0fc8ec3.jpg

This shot shows the lights, headers, and some of the body work. I installed a heat barrier between the header and the foot wells and it works mighty fine. Cool to the touch after bombing around the lake.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/efac2e7b.jpg

Header turndowns into mufflers. No longer brutally loud but I sort of miss that.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...b/efac25d8.jpg

The rear framework begging for some panels. Time to build that buck except we have a racecar to sort out.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...e/efac34b5.jpg
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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2006, 04:13 PM
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Kbankers, your photos may be blocked to outside viewers. I and probably others can't access them from here.
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2006, 05:31 PM
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I just got done cobbling together my 78' Ford-Truck hood roadster.

My "Jig" was a couple of pieces of wire that were supporting the upper half of the body, with some pieces of trampoline pipe and some chunks of wood holding the lower body up.

Last night i stuck a I____I-shaped piece of bed frame (the kind you sleep on) into some holes in the front of the hood, this held it together up front, and inspired me to stick the rest of it together.

I took a few minutes making sure the body was nice and aligned before i started drilling on the Sheet-Aluminum that i had snipped into shape for the back of the car. Since, when i started, i only had two sides of the body, and something that held them together up front.

It looks really shoddy in the back, the metal is very thing, and it flexes really easy. I used some wood-screws and a few sheet metal screws to put the metal on, but the wood ones actually worked better in some cases.

There is a few dents, and rough-edges, and i scratched the body up yesterday from it collapsing so much. I might even start a project jornual on this piece of junk.

I like the lines of this vehicle, and i might seriously build one of these in the future. It dosn't look too bad, its a little too tall, so i made it a little longer. i also made it wide enough for it to maybe seat-3 people.

Now, i need to get a floor from some-place, and make a firewall. It also needs something to look like a cowl/windsheild-post support. So it isn't as open.

And i know where there is a stripped F-150, the same as cboy's, all that is left is the cab and the chassis. So that may be what i cobble this together on. Atleast I will have front brakes...

-GF
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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2006, 07:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Good Frosty
...noticed that the stock F-150 frame dosn't look all too different than a traditional frame.
This will give you an even better idea (without a lot of photochoping) of what can be done with an F-150 frame. Actually, this is an Econoline E-150 frame but not too far different. This is the frame/chassis under my '32 pickup. The major alterations are the adaptation of the F-150 twin I-beams to the econoline frame, the air bags, and the heavy duty massaging of the front frame horns to mimic a 32 frame.

Note, however, that these frames work best under full fendered/full bodied cars like my '32 pickup and for hand built bodies where the extra width of the frame can be factored into the the body design. For fenderless, hoodless or stock bodies the frames width would become a problem and for these I prefer a T-bucket type rectangular tube frames. But as Good Frosty suggests, for the right car the econline or F-150 frame can be modified with decent results.





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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2006, 08:01 PM
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That is way Kool! Good job cboy
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 07-06-2006, 09:02 PM
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My "Roadster" turned out to be, really wide. For some reason. I had originally planned for it to be wide, and long enough for a 6-foot tall person to drive comfortably, and it turned out that way. Now i might even be able to put more than 2-people in it also.

It also looks like it would be wide enough to mount decently on a F-150 chassis too, and i think that econoline frame might be skinny enough to actually channel the body down onto.

Other than that, i think it would probably have to sit on top of the frame, with the body mounts turned inward, because of the way the floor is going to be layed out on this thing.

I'm trying to get it all put together as cheap as possible...

-GF
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 07-07-2006, 04:37 AM
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GF, you have a decent idea. Get rid of the springs and use coil overs on the ends and it will look a lot like a beam axle with coil overs. The springs would definitely have to go though!
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2006, 09:21 PM
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Well, its been a month or two since i was on here. Seems like school, women, and everything else has kind of took me away from my hotrodding dreams. today i was sitting in computer-skills, and started thinking about taking welding next semester, and it kind of revived my dream of building an interesting...rod...of some sort, again.

But, I lost most of my money, and lost out on a bunch of deals while i was out of the hobby, so, I'm kind of out of luck. My Model-T is laying in the woods in two pieces, I scrounged up a pretty good ware-house shelf, and was thinking about making a frame out of it, I dunno where I will get the rest of the parts, but there is a guy wanting to loan me his wire-welder to make the body, and I still know where the is a cache' of parts at.

But, I never gave into the mediocraty of Cavaliers and Escorts, so, I guess I accomplished something.

-GF
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  #147 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2006, 09:29 PM
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I scored a T model truck frame and a cowl section with windshield, so i am a lot closer to a rat rod.. there is a rear end, but no torque tube, and rear springs.. i want to keep the springs and "Z" the frame to the max. I need a donor with a four banger. trans and rear end, but this is two projects away.. two years at best.. but the frame has been out in the woods for 60 years, so no hurry, i guess.
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2006, 09:43 PM
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Even with gas going down, I'm thinking about a 4-cylinder for the...possible, roadster I'd like to build. I don't like the idea of a v6 (Which, looks strange to me) on a hoodless car, and a 6 seems a little too long, and I don't want a V8, mainly because of weight, fuel economey, insurance, etc.

And, I have a surplus of Chevettes.

The only problem is there is so much smog crap hanging all over a 'vette, its not funny, and they have this strange 2-feet long torque-tube thing that extends from the rear end, to the 6-inch drive shaft, so i'm not sure how that would work either.

But i'd imagine fuel economey would be decent.

You could always, somehow, use a small diesel 4 (or 3) banger, i'm not sure how you would rig one up to a transmission, but, it would be interesting, and probably wouldn't look (might perform a little better) much different than stock.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 09-13-2006, 09:51 PM
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well i was going to use this 1900 cc Opel i had, but that might have been sold... I want a Speedster, and a ohv four would be a close approximation of an overhead conversion Ford four... Perhaps a pre smog Toyota or a hopped up B-22. I have one of those that needs a rebuild... The speed parts catalog says you can get 500 hp out one of those..Of course it will cost $5,000.00, but i can dream..

I imagine Pre war hop up parts for a ford would be even more expensive, and a lot heavier. I think the T engine was 270 ci, and approx 30 hp, so a 1800 cc engine would be pretty snappy in a 1500 lb car.

The use the B-22 in lower rank NASCAR races around here, and have all sorts of parts for them..
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:57 PM
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The 'vette is OHC, and...looks kind of weird, with double valve covers at a funny angle. They sound like an Iron-Duke, and, still manage to pull pretty good.

Anyway, I just learned that on my new monitor, most of my MSPaint pictures look like someone randomly scribbled all over the place, then again, I was almost completly blind, without much contrast, and hardley any brightness.
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