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  #166 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2006, 12:43 PM
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Truck Frames

I have built super 4 modified trucks for several years, as well as pro stock cars and modifieds. These are usually early 1974 TO 1981 Ford Courier trucks with 375 hp 2300 four cylinder engines. The odler truck frames do have a distinct disadvantage for rat rods, however. The Chevy S-10 frames need to be narrowed and the fox clip (Pinto, Mustang, IFS front clip) Mounts extremely nice. There are tons of front suspension parts that are available for these, and the S-10s as well. For a less expensive way to acquire these parts is to find a Circle Track person and buy their old parts from them. they have aftermarket uppers and lowers (a-arms) and spindles that work well. We are building a rat rod using a S-10 with a fox clip and our old and spare suspension parts from our race cars.

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  #167 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2006, 05:08 PM
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The circle burner goodies while nifty arn't always available used in some parts of the country due to differences in rules and thr actual race cars them selves. The way cars are set up varies a lot from one race group to another and often from one track to another when the tracks are a long distance from anyone else. Good idea though especially on the tube a arms.
It boils down to the question of if a guy wants to build a clean and simple hotrod looking rig or somthing that ends up looking more like a beach or brush buggy.
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  #168 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2006, 05:10 PM
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Just, by the way, this stuff wasn't warehouse shelving, I don't know what it is, but its some pretty tough looking stuff, it looks like box-tubing, but a little lighter...
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  #169 (permalink)  
Old 10-03-2006, 06:50 PM
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It boils down to the question of if a guy wants to build a clean and simple hotrod looking rig or somthing that ends up looking more like a beach or brush buggy.[/QUOTE]


A matter of taste, ain't it" ... My dumb little purple toyota doodle bug, bought abandoned for $200.00, put in cheap race seats, wood bed, new tires, crude paint job, perforated aluminum grill, nerf bars, total $800.00 more, had brought me more fun and smiles and good comments than anything i have ever owned..

I'll accept "brush buggy".. It gets the job done, gets 30 mpg, hauls a few hundred board feet of lumber, and all the girls love my "cute little purple truck"....

Now, if i can get my $300.00 '47 Ford channeled and cut down and get the 300 ci in it and running, gas tank, and so on, that will be even cooler, but i have $800.00 in it already, and havent even finished the tear down...
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  #170 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2006, 01:46 PM
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There was a "rod" this weekend at our carshow. When I first saw it, I thought it was ugly, and probably just thrown together to catch up with the "Rat Rod" fad. But, it wasn't.

I don't have any pictures, but, it was kind of a cross between a Mercedes Gazelle, one of them Crosley roadster things, and a Model-T. A guy had built this car from chicken wire, alot of bondo, and a tube body. The frame was from an S-10, and the motor was a 302 Ford. He had built it over a couple of years, by his self, and drove it pretty often. He was pretty excited that someone else kind of showed an intrest in scratch building a Hot-Rod, and actually knew what they was talking about.

Still, this car was everything a budget-built, ground-up, hot rod should be. Sure, It had some exposed frame, it wasn't too pretty, and IFS, but, it had to be interesting to drive. The motor was set back enough that it was tasteful, but could've been a little lower. I didn't like the strange looking Crosley-ish front end, and it could have been a little more traditional looking, but hey, it was an interesting car.
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  #171 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2006, 08:28 PM
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I need to do something with this B-Model Mack, course...i do have that 53' Plymouth Chassis.

Fenderless and Knee-Action wouldn't be too bad...right?
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  #172 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2006, 09:08 PM
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Ohhh... Gnarly... I love it... especially the horns and running lights.. Meanwhile i got the body off the 47, and hope to have sold the flattie.. I didnt get much for it, but better than throwing it away..
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  #173 (permalink)  
Old 12-17-2006, 09:21 PM
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It would be true (rat) fashion to just duct-tape it to the Plymouth Chassis, and not do any body work at all...and at this point...its kinda tempting.

I dunno, they hacked the rear window out to put a sleeper cab on it, and the truck is called "Red Bird" (I guess, its painted on one of those sail-panel things) the floor is pretty good, these trucks only have 4-body mounts, so it shouldn't be too hard to tear off there, i found a pair of doors, and one hood side in a pile of junk that my "Roadster" body (A 77' Ford Truck Hood) came out of. Also, anyone interested in a Chevrolet Viking from the late 50's? Might need a cab...



Here is a picture of what the truck hood actually turned out as, i found it in a pile of garbage about a week ago looking like a collapsed dog house, i kicked the sheet aluminum out of the back and set it back up. Should probably do something with it.
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  #174 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2006, 07:08 AM
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I always thought one of those Mack "B" cabs would look good on a pickup frame (as a pickup). The only problme is the fenders would look way to big with smaller wheels. Maybe run some 20 inchers though? Wouldn't look right with rubber band tires -- a 60 series on 20s might look good though. The fneders may still look to big, but a little metal work would fix that, but maybe fenders from some other older truck could be fitted up -- something from the 50s. Either way would be a good bit of work though.
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  #175 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2006, 04:49 PM
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Yeah, but I can't find any fenders for this one, and its got more of a fenderless feel to it. Ah well, should be interesting.

Found two pieces of floor channel for a CJ-7 jeep today, another piece of channel steel, then bought 20-feet of flatbar and a 5x6 sheet of 16-gauge steel (For the Ford truck hood thing) today. Just need a welder, and i could put together a few of my projects.

Found a few washing machines too, so i'll have a supply of patch panels.
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  #176 (permalink)  
Old 12-19-2006, 10:03 PM
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Or I could just strip the front suspension off the 38' Chevy Dump truck i have, put a real straight axle under it (not the huge dumptruck one) and use my 50 bucks of metal to repair its floor....and build the rat i've always wanted.
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  #177 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2007, 02:25 PM
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Im jumping into this a little late in the game but from reading all the posts and looking at the mazda "nightmare" i can honestly say you didnt take it as far as you could. did you guys ever bother looking into tubular control arms. removing all stock suspension brackets and goin with a mini trucker style suspension. Yes you will have to also buy/fabricate the new suspension brackets and weld them yourself but from what i can tell most of us arnt new to welding or fabricating. use 2 inch drop spindles up front and lowering blocks in the rear will give you the low and slap a 350 in there and it will all flow together. Perhaps my views will maybe help with the finishing of that mazda if you still have it.
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  #178 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2007, 02:31 PM
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I kept looking at the stock frame of the 47 Ford, truck and the longer i looked, the less i wanted to trust my life to my welding skills after "Z" ing the frame 12". So i sold it and got a dead 91 Nissan for 200.00...

I hope to sell off the body parts and use that frame.. For under $2,000.oo i can get a real hot rod front end, brakes and all, so i may do that. But i dont think the torsion bars are all that offensive..
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  #179 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2007, 03:16 PM
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Ok, I can see one not trusting his own welding skills, but what is wrong with aligning and tacking everything together yourself and then having a skilled welder finish the welding?

Out in the shed I have an old 110 buzz box welder that came from Wards for abut 50 bucks. It only used the rods that came from Wards for it but I used to use it to tack things together for my first T-Bucket and then load them in the Elkie and pack them over to my buddys house to have him finish welding them. Also if you have the welder it usually isn't that hard to findsome one who has the skills to do the welding if you have it all set up and ready to weld.

I can't really see blowing 2k on a front end to attatch it to a mini truck frame.
I'm sorry but I just can't see the wisdome in that.

Way back to the origin of this thread, I believe the young man who started it wanted to build a presentable low buck hotrod.
I have seen plans for what I would call brush buggies, plans for what I would consider to be total messes and some very strange ideas of what a hotrod or
rat rods are.
Myself, I would descab and clean that 200.00 minitruck chassis up. and run it as is. by positioning the cab and radiator shell in the proper locations it will have that "look" and should make a presentable low buck rig.
A few hours of cleaning, trimming, grinding and sanding and a bit of paint should deliver a presentable chassis.
Hell, finish it, and let some mouthbreather fall in love with it and take the money and build one the way you want it
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  #180 (permalink)  
Old 01-29-2007, 04:10 PM
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using the stock front would suit me fine. I was just trying to be nice. I have to buy a front end for this Model T truck frame i have. That is supposed to become a C cab.

As for welding, again i was trying to be polite.. There is a certified welder two blocks away. I saw somebody "zing" they called it, an old chevy truck frame and it looked ugly and dangerous. And the drive shaft would have to be higher than the seat. That picture was actually what made my mind up, but i didn't want to be rude.

Hot rodders were people who dared to break all the rules, but now, 60 years later there are all sorts of rules to follow.

I could actually care less, but i dont like to get in people's faces. Why bother? So far i have salvaged four dead vehicles and got them running, and have kept two. I restored a 63 chevy C-10, an Opel Wagen, an 80 Toyota truck and a 64 C-10. The last two are sort of simple minded hot rods, and amuse me no end.. Pix on my Journal.

Four more projects on the way... And all of this junk has cost me less than a top end mountain bike, much less a T bucket kit.

Thanks for the input.
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