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  #136 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 01:01 PM
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Elect panel code requirements

Your shop looks excellent, Mine is a tin building and it gets very cold in the winter... Your electrical panel is very neat, better than a lot of pro jobs I have seen...BUT the white wires going to the circuit breakers. If they are current carring conductors ( a feed to a 220 outlet for compressor- welder. etc) the electrical code requires they be painted/ taped some other color and the other end of the conductor at the device box also needs to be marked...Green is reserved for the ground. bare copper is ground... white is reserved for only the Neutral wire . yellow should not be used for the current conducting wire since some warehouse type lights make white and yellow hard to see which is which. the problem is that in the future someone else could get shocked touching a white wire.thinking it is a neutral wire...

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  #137 (permalink)  
Old 11-02-2008, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timothale
Your shop looks excellent, Mine is a tin building and it gets very cold in the winter... Your electrical panel is very neat, better than a lot of pro jobs I have seen...BUT the white wires going to the circuit breakers. If they are current carring conductors ( a feed to a 220 outlet for compressor- welder. etc) the electrical code requires they be painted/ taped some other color and the other end of the conductor at the device box also needs to be marked...Green is reserved for the ground. bare copper is ground... white is reserved for only the Neutral wire . yellow should not be used for the current conducting wire since some warehouse type lights make white and yellow hard to see which is which. the problem is that in the future someone else could get shocked touching a white wire.thinking it is a neutral wire...
Here is a better shot of the breaker box:


Thanks for the compliment and comment.

There is only one white wire that is connected to a breaker.
It is the 30 Amp 230V water heater. I know what you mean that it should be color taped because it is not a neutral. It's funny, I've seen so many installations of water heaters where electricians didn't color tape the white either. The city inspector looked at it with me there and didn't say a word about it.
I have wondered why 10-2 wire isn't manufactured with black/red/ground instead of black/white/ground? I would think most 10-2 wire that is sold is used for 230V water heaters.
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  #138 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2008, 07:08 AM
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depending on what it would take and if you have the power i might suggest you look into a tankless water heater. it takes up much less space and even if you used 4 hours of hot water every day you would still save around 7500 hrs of electric a year.
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  #139 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2008, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 59 wagon man
depending on what it would take and if you have the power i might suggest you look into a tankless water heater. it takes up much less space and even if you used 4 hours of hot water every day you would still save around 7500 hrs of electric a year.
I only put in a 100 amp sub in my workshop so I didn't have the power there for a tankless. I put in a stout shelf in the compressor room to put a 30 short water heater on. My wife insisted that I put in a washer/dryer in the shop to keep the shop towels and rags out of the house. I left room for a stackable w/d combo.

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  #140 (permalink)  
Old 11-03-2008, 10:17 AM
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Now that you have this unbelievable shop, it must be time to get a new rod project right? You instilled so many ideas that I wanted to use, but $$$$ and family seemed to change the plans. Great work!!!!
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  #141 (permalink)  
Old 11-10-2008, 08:57 AM
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Front Finally Painted!

It's really looking like a gas station now.

Got to start a hunt for a gas pump.

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  #142 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2008, 09:38 PM
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Update

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kevin45
I'd go with Wolverine Coatings. As far as color, somewhere I have a bookmark with probablt 50 different colors and chip combos. When I get home from work (just getting ready to leave the house) I'll send it your way.
Thanks Kevin.

For the 660 square foot main area, I just ordered Wolverine epoxy from the AlphaGarage supplier yesterday. I ordered light gray with white, black and dark green flakes. I upgraded to their urethane clear coat instead of clear epoxy for the topcoat. I did a lot of research and it seemed they have an extremely high quality product for a reasonable price. Their epoxies are 100% solids and the urethane is 90% solids. I will have a total thickness of about 26 mils.
I have already prepped the concrete by grinding instead of using acid. I used a 7" hand grinder with a diamond cup. It took me about 15 hours over 3 days to grind the 660 sqft.

Btw, I completed the outside painting last week.
Still waiting on the cabinets. Looks like next week for sure. I will have to paint them after they get delivered. I am sure that will take me 3 or 4 days to do.
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  #143 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2008, 06:41 AM
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roger, throw those flakes away ! i used them in my build room and absolutely hate them. you drop something small you'll never find it .
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  #144 (permalink)  
Old 11-26-2008, 07:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
roger, throw those flakes away ! i used them in my build room and absolutely hate them. you drop something small you'll never find it .
Shine,

I appreciate the advice and have given this some thought.

I didn't use the flakes in the clean room, compressor and blaster rooms and those rooms are already done.
If I build a car along with any kind of work that will create dirt, dust or overspray, it will be in the 14X24 clean room. (I call it the clean room only because it will be simple to clean.)
I used a marine type of oil based paint for the walls and ceiling so this room can be washed down if necessary. For the floor, I used the single coat EpoxyGuard epoxy so it would be easy to repair or re-coat if it ever gets damaged. When I do occasionally paint a car, I will be able to cross vent it with a filter set up like a paint booth.

I am going for good looks in the large main area. I will do occasional mechanic type work in the main room but I will just have to put up with the inconvenience of finding small dropped items. If I built an engine or something like that in there, I could get one of those large vinyl mats. And, I'll keep one of those pole magnets handy.
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  #145 (permalink)  
Old 12-09-2008, 01:17 PM
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Update

I got the cabinets painted and installed. (I still have to paint the drawers and doors.)





Now I am ready for the epoxy floor. The epoxy is on order.

Here is a thread over in the "Flooring" section of the Garage Forum where I am documenting the epoxy job:

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...ad.php?t=26308
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  #146 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2008, 08:07 PM
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OK - OK - just stop already

Wow - this place is nicer than my home!

Really nice work and attention to detail!

Are you really going to be able to "dirty" it up and do any work in there?
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Old 12-13-2008, 08:23 PM
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Here's my shop with the first snow of the season just starting to fall. This building is 1500s.f. I've got two out buidlings and a 4 car attached garage. Still not enough room. If I were you I would go for a 12 foot ceiling to accomodate a lift. ...you can never build it big enough...
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  #148 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2008, 09:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rambo_The_Dog
OK - OK - just stop already

Wow - this place is nicer than my home!

Really nice work and attention to detail!

Are you really going to be able to "dirty" it up and do any work in there?
Thanks!

You bet I'll do some work in there. The clean room (aka dirty room) is where the heavy duty work will get done.
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  #149 (permalink)  
Old 12-13-2008, 10:31 PM
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First class job, I'm still trying to get my house that nice...
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  #150 (permalink)  
Old 12-21-2008, 07:09 PM
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Update

Finished painting and installing the cabinet doors and drawers.
That was a lot of work. Sprayed them with oil based, inside and out.

I also have attached 1 1/8" OSB for the workbench tops. I am going to put black/white (checkerboard) 1/8" VCT tile on it. I am planning on cutting the 12" tiles into 6"X6" pieces. Then I will coat the tiles with clear urethane.
I also have on order some 1 1/4" polished aluminum counter edging for the top edges.

I am ready to epoxy the floor when weather permits.



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