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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2008, 05:15 AM
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Sounds like it will be a nice shop when completed.
Keep pics coming along the way.

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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2008, 06:44 AM
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Great choice on the roofing as well as 8' high doors to not only get the "open door" out of the way, but also gets the door proportions less modern looking.

Sounds like a great garage to plan & build

and a gas pump island too?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 03-29-2008, 07:08 AM
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It is pretty cool that these doors look like they swing out but are really standard sectional insulated doors that roll up. The fake hinge and handle hardware is optional but I think I like the look of them. I will also get the white power coated rails to make them look better on the inside.

And, btw, I modified the size of the drive-through cover to 18'X18'. The island will be 30 inches by 20 feet. I will also run conduit under the slab for power to light the globe on top of the gas pump and also have air and water outlets out of the island as well.

I will run PVC air pipe under the slab for the air but have all the exposed air pipe galvanized.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 06:32 AM
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Time for an update

I am getting to the ground breaking earlier than expected.
Trenching for the foundation is happening this week.
Here are some pics to bring the project up-to-date:

Here is the old garage on the site that had to go:


Here it is knocked down. My wife helped every step of the way.


I rented this backhoe to tear up the old foundation.
It had been a while since I had run one of these, so I felt a little uncoordinated. Also, I was used to the controls on a Case and not on a John Deere. I also borrowed a hydraulic dumping trailer for getting rid of the concrete and the stumps from the 6 trees I had to cut down.


Here is the site with the paint laid down for trenching. You can see the outline of the building and the gas pump island. This was Sunday. Up to this point, My wife and I had done all the work. Now it's time to do some subbing out. A foundation guy is trenching it this week and laying out the forms, beams and rebar. Got to get 2 city inspections, one for the foundation form-up and one for the plumbing, before pouring the concrete.



Here is a link to the full-size photo of the laid-out site:
Full Size photo

Last edited by roger1; 04-16-2008 at 07:04 AM.
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 06:19 PM
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I was going to give three thumbs up...but I only have two.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 04-16-2008, 06:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1ownerT
I was going to give three thumbs up...but I only have two.

I'll second that! Looks good Roger. So how long before it's completed?


In a while, Chet.
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 02:07 PM
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I'd feel lucky to have a shop as good as your OLD one, even more so the nice one on the way!

Good job on the progress and good luck- I hope it all goes smoothly, and you're enjoying the fruits of your labor real soon
Then you can get into your labor of love (talkin about the cars, here...)

Nooj
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 04-17-2008, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lumberjacknooj
I'd feel lucky to have a shop as good as your OLD one, even more so the nice one on the way!

Good job on the progress and good luck- I hope it all goes smoothly, and you're enjoying the fruits of your labor real soon
Then you can get into your labor of love (talkin about the cars, here...)

Nooj
I agree ,keep the pics coming
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2008, 09:42 PM
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Today:

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  #40 (permalink)  
Old 04-18-2008, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
Cboy's comment on the bathroom sparked another recollection for me.
According to local by-laws ... each building that has running water has to have it's OWN sewage line. In other words, I couldn't simply "tie it in" to the sewage line to the house.

A whole new line all the way from the back yard to the center of the street out front ... 100 feet or so ... was "guesstimated" to cost something ridiculous ... $10,000 +.

I thought "For that much I can just run into the house ..."
.
Paid the city today for the sewer tap. $600
I will still have to pay the plumber to pipe it to the street but it shouldn't take him that long to do. It's just 25ft from the shop to the street and it is already trenched. The city will hook it up from there.
It would have been problematic to tie into the house sewer line since it is slightly uphill to the house.

Roger
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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2008, 12:48 AM
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Looking forward to seeing this one come together.

Great looking plan. Congrats on getting it started.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2008, 06:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by schnitz
I'll second that! Looks good Roger. So how long before it's completed?
Thanks Chet.

Since I am the prime on this, I am not really sure how long it will take to complete. Plus I am going to do some of the work myself.
I will do all the electrical, some of the plumbing, and all painting. I have a contractor lined up to do all of the framing, windows/doors & trim, bathroom shower and outside siding. I will also sub out the roof, garage doors and the rest of the concrete work. I will do most of the finish work on the inside. (I probably will have the sheet rock put on the ceiling but do the walls myself. I will also have a guy with a bazooka put the tape and first layer of mud on and then I will do the rest.)
Even though I have already said "retired" in my profile, I actually don't do so until July 31st. I don't expect to be through with all the subs until maybe the end of August. I hope to be ready for final city inspection at that time too. The deal I have with the contractor doing the framing is that he probably won't work full time on it so he doesn't get ahead of my ability to have time to do the electrical.
As far as detailing, that will be an ongoing process over the next year or so I'm sure.

Roger

Last edited by roger1; 04-19-2008 at 06:22 AM.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2008, 01:21 PM
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It's nice to see that things seem to be progressing so quickly for you ... I guess that's what happens when you're highly motivated, and have the time to do a lot of your own work.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2008, 01:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 66GMC
It's nice to see that things seem to be progressing so quickly for you ... I guess that's what happens when you're highly motivated, and have the time to do a lot of your own work.

The bigger "key" here I believe is making the time to do it. Which I for one have a real issue in doing. Cboy, however, has seemingly found that ability. And it looks like Roger has too.


In a while, Chet.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 04-19-2008, 10:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by roger1
...
I will also sub out the roof, garage doors and the rest of the concrete work. ...
...
I probably will have the sheet rock put on the ceiling but do the walls myself.
...
Roger
Hi Roger ...
A couple of comments ...
------------------------------
I followed a suggestion from some of the guys here on HR.com to use 1/2" plywood rather than gyproc on the interior walls ... and I'm really glad that I did! You can drive a screw in anywhere you like ... without having to fart around with wall-anchors.

It was also stated that the plywood goes up a lot easier ... no mudding and taping ... and is certainly more durable. Another comment made was "this isn't your living room ... it's a garage!"

There have already ben a few occasions where something fell over that would have speared a hole in gyproc ... but barely left a mark on the plywood.

-------------------------------
I did have MOST of my work done by a contractor ... until I had trouble with him and kicked him to the curb!

A buddy and I hung the garage doors ourselves ... it really wasn't all that difficult. Tensioning the springs was the thing that was stated to be "best left to the professionals" ... but again ... all it takes to tension residential garage door springs is two 1/2" x 18" solid steel bars (a 3 ft chunk is available at most hardware / building centers) and a little common sense. If you can follow directions from the manual ... you can do it yourself.

-------------------------------
And a final caution:

Make SURE that your design includes adequate room above your door openings for both the tension springs AND the electric door opener tracks (if you are installing them)!

My contractor "goofed" ...
I had spec'd a 6" concrete 'curb' wall to be built on top of the slab, with the idea that it would keep the walls from 'wicking' water up from the wet floor, should a guy ever want to hose it down ... right?
There was to be a 10 ft wall built on top of this 6" curb wall to give me a TOTAL HEIGHT of 10'6".

When the 12' wide x 9' tall garage door panels were assembled and installed, we noticed that they were a little more than 6" taller than the opening ... and we thought it odd ... but OK ...

When it came time to install the chain-drive tracks for the openers ... there was just NO WAY that they would fit as per the directions ... there was only about 1-1/2" above the springs and brackets, and they were calling for a 2x4 reinforcement to bolt the track bracket to! In a "low clearance application" the said that this 2x4 could be hung from the ceiling, and the bracket bolted to it facing the floor. Again ... NO WAY ... as the top edge of the door arced up to within a couple of inches of the ceiling at it's highest point of travel on the curved track above the door.

It was at this point that I started REALLY scratching my head, and wondering "How can this be?", so I measured from the floor to the ceiling ... and discovered it to be EXACTLY 10ft ... not 10'6" as expected!
That 6" was going to be really tough to "put back in there"!!!

In true "hotrodder" fashion , I came up with the idea using of a piece of 1 x 1 angle iron, mounted on the ceiling, about 6" out from the wall ... with the bracket facing the front. It was still tight ... but it works! Luckily the door opener allows for quite a lot of adjustment ...

Moral of the story ...
Keep a VERY close eye on your contractor, and a tape measure of your own very handy.
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