Hi Roger ...
A couple of comments ...
I followed a suggestion from some of the guys here on HR.com to use 1/2" plywood rather than gyproc on the interior walls ... and I'm really glad that I did! You can drive a screw in anywhere you like ... without having to fart around with wall-anchors.
It was also stated that the plywood goes up a lot easier ... no mudding and taping ... and is certainly more durable. Another comment made was "this isn't your living room ... it's a garage!"
There have already ben a few occasions where something fell over that would have speared a hole in gyproc ... but barely left a mark on the plywood.
Thanks, I might do that in the "clean room" area. The rest of the shop will kind of be a combo of a rec room and garage. So, I am going to go with sheet rock in there.
I did have MOST of my work done by a contractor ... until I had trouble with him and kicked him to the curb!
I have had several things done by this contractor before and we have partnered on some projects. Trouble here will not be an issue.
A buddy and I hung the garage doors ourselves ... it really wasn't all that difficult. Tensioning the springs was the thing that was stated to be "best left to the professionals" ... but again ... all it takes to tension residential garage door springs is two 1/2" x 18" solid steel bars (a 3 ft chunk is available at most hardware / building centers) and a little common sense. If you can follow directions from the manual ... you can do it yourself.
And a final caution:
Make SURE that your design includes adequate room above your door openings for both the tension springs AND the electric door opener tracks (if you are installing them)!
My contractor "goofed" ...
I had spec'd a 6" concrete 'curb' wall to be built on top of the slab, with the idea that it would keep the walls from 'wicking' water up from the wet floor, should a guy ever want to hose it down ... right?
There was to be a 10 ft wall built on top of this 6" curb wall to give me a TOTAL HEIGHT of 10'6".
When the 12' wide x 9' tall garage door panels were assembled and installed, we noticed that they were a little more than 6" taller than the opening ... and we thought it odd ... but OK ...
When it came time to install the chain-drive tracks for the openers ... there was just NO WAY that they would fit as per the directions ... there was only about 1-1/2" above the springs and brackets, and they were calling for a 2x4 reinforcement to bolt the track bracket to! In a "low clearance application" the said that this 2x4 could be hung from the ceiling, and the bracket bolted to it facing the floor. Again ... NO WAY ... as the top edge of the door arced up to within a couple of inches of the ceiling at it's highest point of travel on the curved track above the door.
It was at this point that I started REALLY scratching my head, and wondering "How can this be?", so I measured from the floor to the ceiling ... and discovered it to be EXACTLY 10ft ... not 10'6" as expected!
That 6" was going to be really tough to "put back in there"!!!
In true "hotrodder" fashion
, I came up with the idea using of a piece of 1 x 1 angle iron, mounted on the ceiling, about 6" out from the wall ... with the bracket facing the front. It was still tight ... but it works! Luckily the door opener allows for quite a lot of adjustment ...
I have already contacted a guy I have used before and trust in Austin with Overhead Door Co. He said with the 10 ft. ceilings and the 9 wide 8 high doors, a 20 inch radius rail can be used that will give me ceiling high lift without an extra panel and still be able to use a standard operator. I will have them installed so I don't have to worry about any warranty issues.
Moral of the story ...
Keep a VERY close eye on your contractor, and a tape measure of your own very handy.
Thanks for all your suggestions!