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Designs for building a 700ish HP 383 stroker

90K views 54 replies 18 participants last post by  S10 Racer 
#1 ·
I'm looking into building a 383 stroker soon, I already have a 350 bored 30 over, might use that or else summit sells a 383 block for $729.99, I want this motor to snap and am looking for alot of torque as well. Any opinions on compression ratios, heads block, crank... basically a good blue print on everything haha... I have built up a few 350s before so I'm not new to the process but I haven't built a 383 yet... I am not gonna cut corners on this project as that has bit me in the *** to many times...

Pat
 
#5 ·
There is no such thing as a general "simple blueprint", there are the normal things that have to be done on a very high performance build but I dont think you got the gist of what ap72 was stating.

A stock production block won't last very long at 700hp, you will need an aftermarket block and the best forged reciprocating assembly you can buy. The cup cars run about 800 hp and they cost moooocho $$$$$$$$$$$$ because EVERTHING is aftermarket.
 
#6 ·
thats funny cause I am friends with 2 people who have been racing for near 30 years and run 383s that they pulled out of late 60s and early 70s vehicles and modified them and are putting out more than I am looking for (running 8s :p) and btw this is street and strip
 
#7 ·
yes, i understand that there is a lot of work involved but I am friends with really good machinists who will do it for me for no charge... and i no there is a lot of money involved, I am willing to pay big bucks to build this motor, I'm not gonna be beating on it constantly, i no there is no simple blue print as well im asking as for the lower end and heads and cams give me something that has worked for you, to start with...
 
#8 ·
cam383aro said:
thats funny cause I am friends with 2 people who have been racing for near 30 years and run 383s that they pulled out of late 60s and early 70s vehicles and modified them and are putting out more than I am looking for (running 8s :p) and btw this is street and strip
Running 8's in what and where at?

If they are running in a production car with an OEM 350 block they are NOT running 8's, unless you're talking the 1/8 mile.

And NO amount of machine work can make an OEM block a true race block.
 
#10 ·
first, high 8s at Maple Grove Raceway, Mohnton Pennsylvania is where I watch him race at and its in a trans am funny car, NOT RUNNING ON ALCOHOL OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT, 15:1 compression ratio, no nitrous or supercharger... and yes its in the quarter mile, and it looks like oem blocks are racing all over the place.

Also I was considering super chargin but would rather just go with a big compression ratio
 
#11 · (Edited by Moderator)
cam383aro said:
first, high 8s at Maple Grove Raceway, Mohnton Pennsylvania is where I watch him race at and its in a trans am funny car, NOT RUNNING ON ALCOHOL OR ANYTHING LIKE THAT, 15:1 compression ratio, no nitrous or supercharger... and yes its in the quarter mile, and it looks like oem blocks are racing all over the place.

Also I was considering super chargin but would rather just go with a big compression ratio

If you think someone is running a 15:1 funny car into the 8's NA on gas on an OEM block **************.

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#15 ·
ap72 said:
If you think someone is running a 15:1 funny car into the 8's NA on gas on an OEM block **************.

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Sarcasm and criticism removed, no technical merit.
 
#17 ·
For the horsepower you want start with a dart block.Stocker will not take it long trust been there done that got the tee shirt.Solid roller is a must, good heads such as afr 220(just an example many others out there).Plan on paying for cnc porting, at least 14 to 1 squeeze, lotta rpm. You would prabably be better off to build for 500 hp and add Mr. Frosty in the correct proportions.
 
#18 ·
cam383aro said:
thats funny cause I am friends with 2 people who have been racing for near 30 years and run 383s that they pulled out of late 60s and early 70s vehicles and modified them and are putting out more than I am looking for (running 8s :p) and btw this is street and strip
I will throw $.02 in here and leave. If you have two friends doing it...why do you need a build template?
 
#21 ·
ap72 said:
no technical merit? We are now censoring based on waht someone deems as merit?

Am I the only one that finds a problem with that? I can take cutting out profanity, but "technial merit"?
In a word, yes. That's what we do, and there's no argument that what you posted was sarcasm and degrading. You call it censoring, I call it editing.
 
#22 ·
The reason I don't duplicate there motor is because I'm not trying to build the same thign my friend built... Wanna make it my own, if we copied what other people did and don't make our own design we would still be driving model Ts...

barnym17 thanks for the first piece of useful information out of this forum
 
#24 ·
cam383aro said:
The reason I don't duplicate there motor is because I'm not trying to build the same thign my friend built... Wanna make it my own, if we copied what other people did and don't make our own design we would still be driving model Ts...

barnym17 thanks for the first piece of useful information out of this forum
I couldn't resist...So you are here to copy a member of this forums build. :confused:
 
#25 ·
How "big" of a compression ratio do you want? In an earlier post you said you want this to be a street and strip project. At 700 hp you're going to be using up a lot of race fuel just to drive it on the street. If you go with a 496, maybe even a 540, and build it right you might just be able to hit that target on pump gas. That would be very cool.

Also, I don't think anybody is suggesting you copy your friends. Just that if your friend has what you say he has then he clearly knows what he is doing and should be able to give you real world, hands on advice in your project. That is much more than you can get from just about any anonymous person over the internet.
 
#26 ·
this is a crazy thread, i seriously dont think that anyone would spend the kind of money it takes to build a "funny car" and then go and put a oem gm block in it, to build a 383 producing 700hp NA, you're gonna spend 20K+ on the motor alone. Iam sorry but i dont believe the poster for a second, he either doesn't know what he talking about or doesn't really know what his friends have into their car (my bet is the second)

you will need a DART little M block, and since you would need this block why not go with a 434 instead or better yet a BBC, a serious crank like a callies dragon slayer, callies magnum, howard pro seires, scat light weight, or high end crower. some howards power forged or ultimate duty rods. some JE, manley, possible ross pistons, you will likely end up spending 4k or so for a set of heads, possibly more for extra machine work, you will likely need shaft mount rockers, you will have to spair no expense on your valvetrain, you may need to look into a fabricated intake. you'll need this motor to turn 8k-9krpm.

you will spend less money on building a BBC
 
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