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  #16 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2010, 10:29 AM
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It sounds like with a bit more attention to the timing, you can likely get rid of the knock. If you have a vacuum advance dist, I'd disconnect the vacuum and play with the initial and max timing first. Just one less thing to complicate your test results.

If you can get rid of the knock that way, then re-connect the vacuum advance and try again. If the knock comes back, hopefully the vacuum canister is adjustable, or you'll have to give up on some of the mechnical advance.

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Old 07-29-2010, 11:08 AM
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Originally Posted by yttaf
Well I like the 1st idea of getting rid of the domed pistons, but that is not an option right now! I bought this motor as a quick replacement of my worn 327 for my 66 impala & I just need to get buy till winter when I plan to rebuild my 327 then I can mess with changing these pistons out.

As for when it was running if I drove a bit then played around with the distributor I almost got rid of the noise, but it still comes under a load. Actually the only time I had the noise was under a load... It just gets worse or less depending on where I set the timing? It ran fine & even reving it up in neutral wouldn't have the noise...
OK, reving it in neutral won't cause detonation, even if the timing is way advanced, so don't try to use that as a guide of any sort.

You need to do a couple things. One is to determine what the air/fuel ratio is averaging. This can be done by checking the plug for the color along w/what heat range they are.

You also need to check what the vacuum at idle is.
Then, you want to see where the initial timing is set, w/the vacuum advance disconnected and the line from the engine plugged off. You will also want to know where the total timing is at and at what RPM it is all in by.

Knowing all of these things will allow the timing to be optimized for the best performance w/o detonation, using the existing parts.

This all involves some work, but will get you the most bang for the buck and will assure the engine doesn't damage itself.

A couple things you can also do, is to DETERMINE TDC then MAKE A TIMING TAPE. The temporary timing tape allows you to see where the total timing is, w/o having to rely on a dial back timing light. Use the tutorial on finding TDC if there's ANY question as to the accuracy of your existing timing marks.

As for the heads, if the 2.02 set has a larger chamber than the 305 heads (which can be as small as 53, according to F-Bird'88) they'd be a much better choice. If they don't have accessory holes and you are using a long water pump set-up, this can be a snag, though.
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Old 07-29-2010, 08:54 PM
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A few more Distributor Install & Timing Tip links/sites.
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:19 PM
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Well I found some 882 casting heads with hardened seats & had them cleaned up & umbrella seals installed on them. Got most of it back together today... would have had it done today, but found the majority of coolant passages in the block where the head mounts were plugged up with crud! So I had to clean them out real good... Now just need to finish her up tomorrow! I'll post back up here how she runs when I'm done! I'll even add a couple pics of the car too.

And thanks to all for the awesome advice!
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