[F&J]

After having a couple of brake system failures with a single reservoir MC, I'm more then a bit sensitive to this subject - especially when there is a proven system that would prevent a full pant load type of stop using the ebrake, a dragging foot, and throw it into park while screaming invectives at the gods of brake fluid. I do understand why Centerline wants to use this system - but sometimes, IMHO, function has to intervene over form. But, it of course is his project, and of course I do respect his decision to go that way - and wont say any more (today, that is :nono: ). [QUOTE/]

I've still got a single circuit on one vehicle and I sure dont worry. It has a true handbrake lever where you can reach it. I know a handbrake is not ideal, but I DID! have a blown front flex line as I backed out of my old driveway and headed down a BIG hill...and I was able to stop it pretty easy. I admit that there is a slight delay as you need to react The flex line failure was MY IGNORANCE ...I had been going through some tough times, lost my shop, AND put an oversized wheel on one front because I was unable to get(afford) the right one. Not having a shop, I missed the rubbing issue at full lock. Anyways, damaged lines seem to pop way more often as you apply slightly more pressure in "leaving" or "returning" to your own drive. I think it's the fact that it's a familar setting and you "leave" or "arrive" a little harder than normal driving???

A friend smashed the whole nose in on a 5 yr old Chevy 4x4 as he came to a red light. Something popped in the fronts and the REARS will NOT stop your heavy car in a panic stop; it just locks them up.

We could go on for decades discussing safety issues on brake systems...BUT...what about the REST of the car???...We love the lines of these old cars and they have so little crash or rollover protection, door latches, gas tanks hanging out there , dashboard safety, the list is endless to say the least. So my point is; why pick on a brake system and let the rest of the issues go? ...and if we address them all, the car will look like a new Mercedes or Volvo

End of rant :mwink:

 

[Deuce]

Oh yeah,
Correct engine for me
Wrong body - you might just be right
Correct fan, for my assembly of bits and pieces

I know ... that's why I said just kidding and had a smiley there. The SBC is shorter than your SBF ... I know about your issues, concerns and experiences with Brookville and you know I hate electric fans.

I had a real bad experience with one years ago. I took a 29 Model A to Pigeon Forge TN to the Shades of the Past event ... to sell it for a friends wife. He had died and she wanted the $$$ from the Model A. The D@^* electric fan quit ... while a strong potential buyer was test driving the car ... in the famous Pigeon Forge bumper to bumper traffic. Fortunately, a mutual friend had sold his car and had a open trailer available. Took the Model A home ... and in the next few days I converted it to a ZIPs raised water pump set up ... took it back to the Grand Run in Pigeon Forge the following weekend and sold that Model A ...

 

[Centerline]

...............PS: I really wish you would reconsider and use a dual reservoir master cylinder.

I understand everyone's concerns about a single reservoir master cylinder and if this was going to be a daily driver I would definitely go with something different, probably the triple Wilwood system that mounts behind the dash. Since this car will be driven maybe once or twice a month I don't think it will be that big a deal. After all single master cylinders were used for decades and some of the really high HP muscle cars of the early to mid 60's.... such as: 426 Max Wedge Plymouths and Dodges, 426 Hemi Belveders, and Coronets, 409 Impalas, 427 Fords, 389 GTO, 396 & 427 Corvettes, Olds 442's, not to mention the Shelby GT 350 Mustangs and all the small block Novas, Corvettes, Barracudas and the like. No, I'm not worried one bit about breaking with a single reservoir master cylinder.

Yes ... no shroud on the American Graffiti coupe but NO ELECTRIC fan and ... No aluminum radiator either ... :smash:

I ran my Roadster for many years without a shroud. I use a Walker Z series 4 row radiator ... ( black of course ... just like the 50's/60's ). I went to a shroud ... mainly for appearance. With proper jetting and ignition timing ... I see no reason the HEMI should not run COOL with the large mechanical fan you are showing. Your coupe with NO HOOD ... should run cooler than my Roadster with a HOOD. It is a well known fact for the BBC water pump is a vastly better pump the OEM Hemi one ... so I would NOT use a electric fan.

IF ... and I do mean IF ... you needed one at a later date ... it would be a easy addition ... ......

My reasoning was simply to augment the stock fan but since adding the electric fan (which would be totally hidden) can always be done later, I'll wait and see if I really need it first.

Started the assembly of the front suspension this morning. The bolt on one of the front spring perches cross threaded and stripped all the threads so I had to order a new one from Pete & Jakes (at $46+ they aren't cheap). It probably won't arrive till Monday or Tuesday so I'll have to spend the next couple days working on my other project.... a late 1880's full size horse drawn wagon that will eventually find its way to the front yard with our business name on it.

 

[Deuce]

My reasoning was simply to augment the stock fan but since adding the electric fan (which would be totally hidden) can always be done later, I'll wait and see if I really need it first.

This HEMI powered 32 Roadster belonged to a friend of mine ... and it ran 180 degrees ... even in heavy bumper to bumper traffic. It had NO HOOD sides ... and a smaller fan than yours. He had a 5 speed transmission in his.

I have run a few unscientific " poor country man " test with my 32 Roadster ... and found that the 25 vent hood was 20 to 30 degrees cooler ( under hood ambient temperature ) than a 20 vent. The NO hood test was up to 50 degrees cooler

The practice of no hoods on a 32 ... actually started in order to get the engines to run cooler. Then it became a styling statement :thumbup:

 

[Irelands child]

I know ... that's why I said just kidding and had a smiley there.
[/B]

I know - you have to bust on me - I do have a tendency to go against the tide of Chebbies :thumbup:


"The SBC is shorter than your SBF ... "

Not really. :nono: The Ford is 1" shorter or .5 longer, depending on water pumps, plus for sure the SB Ford is a couple inches, more or less both narrower and lower and over 100 pounds lighter. When you get to the LS engines, the dimensions all go even further out in favor of Fords.

...and we again have messed with the quality of Centerlines very good thread. :evil:

Dave W

....

 

[Centerline]

.............and we again have messed with the quality of Centerlines very good thread. :evil:

Dave W

....

Anything Deuces works for me. I'd rather talk Fords than small block Chevys anyway.

 

[bentwings]

Since this is about 32's I have a quick question. A customer brought in a roadster, plastic car pro built. At the rear where the lower body, chassis and fuel tank meet there is a gap of '2 fingers on one side on the frame and 3 fingers on the other side of the frame'. I realize the angular difference is there but is there supposed to be a gap there in the first place??. I just never paid attention before. There is a pan on each side that goes over the frame with 2 bolts going into the frame toward the fuel tank. This looks like and extention of the rear of the fender. The molded relief in it doesn't really match up like I would think it should. It looks like at least this would cover the gap from the side. It looks strange anyway. Sorry I don't have a picture.

We were doing some other work on the car and I just happened to notice this. It's got a few other 'misses' too but this one stands out.

 

[Centerline]

According to Deuce, and I'm sure he'll correct me if I'm worng.... I think the gap between the body and fuel tank is supposed to be around 3/4". If there is a difference between sides it sounds like either the body is less than high quality or the frame is racked somehow. If the frame is heavily "C" notched that could happen easily if the rear shock/spring mount is aft of the notch. One good smack or pot hole could bend the entire rear section of the frame.

Here's a pic of a roadster with the proper gap.

The other part sounds like the rear frame horn covers. Here's a pic of a fendered car that has them installed.

IMHO they really don't look good on a non fendered car.

 

[bentwings]

That's exactly what I wanted to see. Our customer car is a full fendered roadster so the red car clearly shows how it is supposed to be. Thanks

The roadster shows maybe 3/4 inch over the gas tank. The coupe shows the frame horn cover ( I was looking for the word) in the right place. You can see where the bumper and license plate bracket attach. This is what I meant by not lined up. The customer car ( no bumper or license plate bracket) has the bolt holes clearly out of line and the frame horn cover doesn't even come close to filling the gap.

We took it for a ride a couple days ago and it has significant bump steer too. I guess it has been a while since I've been in a 32 but sure don't remember the bump steer. It has a traditional 32 front end with a cross steering link. (drag link) I'm pretty sure it has a Vega steering box or a modified one. Besides the bump steer it steers like a 1 ton truck without power steering. He said something about 10 deg of caster. I was busy on another car and really was not in on the conversation.

Thanks for the pictures and help.

 

[Deuce]

The ideal gap is pretty close. The gap is actually closer on my 3W coupe than it looks ... because of the reveal molding shadow line. Above is mock up ...

Mine is barely enough to get the frame horn covers in between the fuel tank and body. Above is after a little prep and paint on the tank.

The fit is supposed to be close ... Ford even designed the frame covers with two holes in each frame horn cover that hold rubber stoppers to keep the covers from rubbing the tank or the body. With the stoppers in place ... you should feel a slight interference fit when installing the frame horn covers ...

 

[Irelands child]

The fit is supposed to be close ... Ford even designed the frame covers with two holes in each frame horn cover that hold rubber stoppers to keep the covers from rubbing the tank or the body.

Deuce - what kind of quality are your horn covers that you show? I had to do major surgery on the exposed radii on mine to make 'em look right. Mine were from Vintique.

Dave W

 

[Deuce]

Deuce - what kind of quality are your horn covers that you show?

Mine are original Ford
... but the photo came off the internet.

 

[Centerline]

Just thought I'd post an update for those who didn't see these who haven't seen these pics.

Took the frame off the jig and installed the front suspension last week. Also installed the GM (small) steering box.

The GM "small" steering box is almost the exact same size as the Vega box but just has an input shaft that's about 4" longer.

Next week I'll remove the front suspension and flip the frame over to complete some welding that I couldn't get to when it was on the table. Then it will be time to get busy narrowing the Ford 9" rear.

 

[Henry Highrise]

You are doing a fantastic job! :thumbup:

 

[NEW INTERIORS]

Yes Centerline,I do have to say.That is a very nice job,Your doing. :thumbup:

 

[Deuce]

It has been ALMOST a month ...

We need updates on progress :thumbup:

 

[Centerline]

It has been ALMOST a month ...

We need updates on progress :thumbup:

Been busy around the house. Lots of grading and tree removal going on. That said, I did manage to get the Polara in the garage (finally) and have hunted up a bunch of new parts.

Waiting for my wheels to be shipped (Wheel Vintique special order) and once they're here we'll be going down to valley (Phoenix) for tires. Also ordered a new Ansen style dual clutch/brake peddle along with a new clutch slave cylinder. Best of all picked up a really nice set of 9.5:1 forged aluminum (+.060) pistons for the hemi that will be going into the deuce. Had a nice set of 354 pistons but in order to use them I'd have to have the block sonic checked for core shift before taking it out .125 and the nearest place that has a sonic checker is in Phoenix..... to far to bother.

Also posted this morning ( HERE) about my rear end adventure.

 

[Flipper_1938]

Just thought I'd post an update for those who didn't see these who haven't seen these pics.

Took the frame off the jig and installed the front suspension last week. Also installed the GM (small) steering box.

The GM "small" steering box is almost the exact same size as the Vega box but just has an input shaft that's about 4" longer.

Next week I'll remove the front suspension and flip the frame over to complete some welding that I couldn't get to when it was on the table. Then it will be time to get busy narrowing the Ford 9" rear.

Is that a S-10 steering box?

 

[Centerline]

Is that a S-10 steering box?

I doubt it. This one came off a Nova.

It is about the same size with what looks like the same three bolt mounting but it is definitely a different casting than the S-10 box.

 

[oldtimeydave]

Alternator / drive kit

This is a real benefit to fellas starting out like me. Thanks for the tips!
I'm about to get started on a 32 5-window and I'm trying to choose an accessory drive setup for the 383.
NO A/C, NO power steering, short water pump. So all I'm going to run is the alternator and short water pump. Will a low mount alternator fit on the driver's side? I've noticed some brackets that tuck it way down there. Or should I go for the high-mount, between the valve covers?
Kits from places like March are sort of high priced, any recommendations for brackets/pulleys/belt, no flashy chrome?
Thanks!